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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 09-16-2016, 08:32 AM   #3241
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Originally Posted by ManiacMagoo View Post
What surface are you running on? I've owned the B6, TLR 22 3.0 laydown, Xray XB2ca, YZ-2ca, and Shumacher all in the last 8 months. All of them run good on turf and carpet once you find a setup that works for you.

My least favorite of the bunch was the Schumacher due to issues with it breaking and hinge pins falling out. I wasn't a belt guy even though they have been one of the top cars at our track.

The XB2ca was by far my favorite besides its natural push. Only sold it due to cost to maintaining multiple cars for the family to run. The car is easy to drive and the quality is amazing.

The TLR conversion was the one I regret selling. It just drove consistently fast no matter what the setup was but was the most expensive to build with the 3.0 kit and TLR conversion.

The YZ-2ca I still own for now as my daughter is cutting her teeth into racing with it. By far it has the most steering response out of them or as some say twitchy fast steering.

Our new cars are the B6 due to local track having parts on hand for it. It is a good car as well. Taking some time to find the right setup but my car is a rocket on carpet.

We just switched last week from Astro to EOS carpet on my local track which I have only ran the B6 and YZ-2ca on the new carpet. Both cars are amazing on the carpet.
I kept my 22 3.0 laydown with dirt tranny, and also have a YZ-2 CA, and B6 which is getting better. I still maintain the 22 3.0 as setup now is the smoothest to drive (12 seconds fastest then 2nd place win Wednesday on a new layout im not totally comfortable with yet is a clue how good the car is) . Give me some time with the B6 and it will get better. I'd say in order it goes 22, B6, YZ-2, mind you I have had the least amount of time on the B6 but am constantly changing setups to find the right balance of corner speed and stability. I know it's there, just havent quite found it yet.
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Old 09-16-2016, 09:00 AM   #3242
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Hello everyone.

Looking into a few different vehicles to see what is out there in comparison to what I have for the coming indoor season and having AE before figured give it a look too

Anyway, after reading some choice posts in the thread and the first page I had some questions I was hoping could be answered:

- It was stated by someone the only upgrade you need was the D mount in aluminum, but it seems people are getting excited about replacement shock towers. Are the shock towers an area that should be addressed?

- For the new VRP towers they describe a new hole position. For what conditions would these towers be good for (loose dirt, carpet, etc)

- Based on the first page, when buying the laydown conversion here listed as 917057 , I am not finding that part #? Is that a typo and it should just be 91705?

- The first page mentions the b6 body 91739 , is that required to use with the laydown conversion or can you use the regular b6D body?

- Are Team associated springs worth using, and if not, what brands are what people prefer?

- If AE Springs are good, what springs do you recommend to have onhand for carpet and for low traction dirt (or, if in a spring kit, what do you recommend).

- Anyone have issues running the ball diff on carpet? (I don't think there would be but figured I would ask)

- how is the durability of the stock turnbuckles versus say lunsford ones (used to using lunsfords why I ask)?

- for spares, I would stock up on the following (1 each), anything else you suggest?
* front a-arms
* rear a-arms
* Steering knuckles
* front hubs
* rear hubs

Thanks! If I got this route I would probably go with the vehicle pretty much stock in a 17.5 spec class, so no pucks, etc. to start.
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Old 09-16-2016, 09:12 AM   #3243
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Hello everyone.

Looking into a few different vehicles to see what is out there in comparison to what I have for the coming indoor season and having AE before figured give it a look too

Anyway, after reading some choice posts in the thread and the first page I had some questions I was hoping could be answered:

- It was stated by someone the only upgrade you need was the D mount in aluminum, but it seems people are getting excited about replacement shock towers. Are the shock towers an area that should be addressed?

- For the new VRP towers they describe a new hole position. For what conditions would these towers be good for (loose dirt, carpet, etc)

- Based on the first page, when buying the laydown conversion here listed as 917057 , I am not finding that part #? Is that a typo and it should just be 91705?

- The first page mentions the b6 body 91739 , is that required to use with the laydown conversion or can you use the regular b6D body?

- Are Team associated springs worth using, and if not, what brands are what people prefer?

- If AE Springs are good, what springs do you recommend to have onhand for carpet and for low traction dirt (or, if in a spring kit, what do you recommend).

- Anyone have issues running the ball diff on carpet? (I don't think there would be but figured I would ask)

- how is the durability of the stock turnbuckles versus say lunsford ones (used to using lunsfords why I ask)?

- for spares, I would stock up on the following (1 each), anything else you suggest?
* front a-arms
* rear a-arms
* Steering knuckles
* front hubs
* rear hubs

Thanks! If I got this route I would probably go with the vehicle pretty much stock in a 17.5 spec class, so no pucks, etc. to start.
so much questions.....

I have only broken towers and the front pivot. No bending of the kit turnbuckles. Have not heard of it either. But Lunsford is always nice. Why would you need spare steering knuckles and front hubs? For carpet guys are using non AE springs. Kyosho and yokomo are popular, but I dont know the colors. For outside dirt racing, IMO the AE springs are fine on loamy tracks. You would probably want the soft AE spring kits for tuning. The laydown conversion is ASC91705. The bodies are the same. I know a few locals that run on carpet tracks are using the gear diff or the ball diff really tight. I was always told gear diffs for smooth high grip like carpet. YYMV
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Old 09-16-2016, 09:19 AM   #3244
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thanks, the steering knuckles and front hubs I wasn't sure if it they were worth having, to be honest on my past 2 2wd vehicles never broke them, I htink the last time I broke the steering knuckle was on the b4/t4 lineup.

I'll give some of the carpet setups a look to compare springs.

Also, curious if other VRP stuff is worth having like that laydown plate, I'll give that a search on the thread here too.

Thanks!
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Old 09-16-2016, 09:32 AM   #3245
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
thanks, the steering knuckles and front hubs I wasn't sure if it they were worth having, to be honest on my past 2 2wd vehicles never broke them, I htink the last time I broke the steering knuckle was on the b4/t4 lineup.

I'll give some of the carpet setups a look to compare springs.

Also, curious if other VRP stuff is worth having like that laydown plate, I'll give that a search on the thread here too.

Thanks!
I am not a fan of the VRP products. And I have no plans to put an aluminum tower on my cars. But if you like their stuff go for it. Raw speed and factory RC look to have good tower upgrades for the b6
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Old 09-16-2016, 09:58 AM   #3246
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I have broken the plastic inserts in the rear hubs but that is is so far. To get that piece you need to buy the whole hub (which is cheap).

Edit, forgot I bent two TiN rear shafts (using the short tower and bodies). Just switched to long, we'll see how that works.

Last edited by 40yoCaliRacer; 09-16-2016 at 11:03 AM.
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Old 09-16-2016, 09:58 AM   #3247
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
Before I went to the new receivers, I coiled up, shrink tubed and servo taped it to my receiver. Never had an issue in 2 years. It does lower the range. I tested that. But, not enough to mater in racing. Guys are doing it at fear farm, which is large, without issue.
Ditto, no issues with two different receivers (Sanwa).
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Old 09-16-2016, 10:59 AM   #3248
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Are people using B5m shocks on the b6? I have some Kashima's laying around from a trade. Should I use them over stock? med bite clay with a laydown b6d
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Old 09-16-2016, 11:02 AM   #3249
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Are people using B5m shocks on the b6? I have some Kashima's laying around from a trade. Should I use them over stock? med bite clay with a laydown b6d
I Switched mine to Kashimas and added the long tower. I believe most or all team guys had the long towers at the Surf City Classic (read somewhere I believe).
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Old 09-16-2016, 11:05 AM   #3250
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Are people using B5m shocks on the b6? I have some Kashima's laying around from a trade. Should I use them over stock? med bite clay with a laydown b6d
You can use the rears with the longer tower. Should help on bumpy tracks.
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Old 09-16-2016, 11:12 AM   #3251
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http://www.liverc.com/news/new_produ...or_B6_and_B6D/

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Old 09-16-2016, 11:33 AM   #3252
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So, only the rears? Then one would have mismatched colored shocks. not very fashionable.

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You can use the rears with the longer tower. Should help on bumpy tracks.
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Old 09-16-2016, 11:36 AM   #3253
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So, only the rears? Then one would have mismatched colored shocks. not very fashionable.
Here's the snippet from the wiki for other fitments depending on what tower you're using. Fronts are the same.

Q: What Kashima shock bodies do I need for the B6/B6D?
A: For the front, you will need #ASC91576 12x23mm Buggy V2 Front Shock Body
For the rear, you will need #ASC91577 12x27.5mm Truck V2 Front Shock Body
For the rear, you can also buy #91666 B6 Rear Shock Tower (Long)
and #ASC91578 Buggy V2 Rear Shock Body

So basically, B5M fronts and Truck fronts if you want to be same as kit form. Or, 31mm rears if you want to use the long tower.
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Last edited by mellow; 09-16-2016 at 11:57 AM.
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Old 09-16-2016, 11:39 AM   #3254
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So, only the rears? Then one would have mismatched colored shocks. not very fashionable.
Fronts are the same as the b5m.
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Old 09-16-2016, 11:46 AM   #3255
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So, only the rears? Then one would have mismatched colored shocks. not very fashionable.
Lol.... Have it anodized by Justin Myersons company.Motowhip. They do great work.
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