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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 09-15-2016, 06:51 AM   #3226
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Got my B6D built up and painted. Just need some knobby tires so i can do some outdoor racing.
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Old 09-15-2016, 11:34 AM   #3227
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Looks like the aluminum shock tower prayers have been answered!



From the liverc site- "
VRP would like to introduce its 7075 Aluminum Shock Towers for the Associated B6 buggy. They are 100% made in the USA out of American 7075 aluminum. We make them in house at VRP.

For the Front Shock Tower, there are 2 versions. First, a Standard Tower with the normal shock mounting holes, and then an Option Tower that eliminates the outer shock mounting hole. By doing this, you have the stock middle hole as the very outside hole, as well as the stock inner hole. But as an added tuning option, we added a half hole between the inner and outer hole. This will offer a fine adjustment for the different grip levels found in modern racing.

For the Rear Shock Tower, there are 3 versions. First, the Standard Tower with the normal shock mounting positions. Second, we have the Option Tower. This tower is much like the Front Option Tower. It eliminates the outer hole, and makes the middle hole the outside hole, normal inside hole, and new half hole between the two. Third, we have the Option +2 Tower. This tower is just like the Option Tower, but it raises the wing position up by 2mm. Testing has shown that this increases the total downforce and thus makes the car harder to traction roll. Very much in line with the way F1 aero packages work.

Towers made out of American 7075 Aluminum
CNC, Anodized, and Laser Etched in house at VRP
100% American Made
2 different Front Towers (Standard and Option Tower)
3 different Rear Towers (Standard, Option, and Option +2 Tower)
No more breakage issues
All Towers available in Silver, Blue and Black
Includes Velvet Storage Pouch
Rear Towers include 4 Mounting Washers"
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Old 09-15-2016, 12:38 PM   #3228
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I was always told if you bundle the antenna wire it creates a coil and that causes glitching. What do you think or have you had any experience in this? Sure does make for a cleaner looking body.
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Old 09-15-2016, 12:39 PM   #3229
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Hey guys, need some help with a few settings on my b6d laydown.

I just finished building my b6d (ill spare you the unimpressive pics) and I'm trying to decide if I want to get new alum. rear hubs or use my B5m single axle height Schelle rear hubs.

What is this adjustment really doing? Is this a well used adjustment? Is it the same as +/- a shim under the outer ballstud? Also, is this a necessary change for raising or lowering the inner hinge pin height?

On that note I am trying to run a wide inner pivot with 2.5 tow in and 1 anti squat. So as far as I can tell I need center 1's facing out in C and center .5's facing out in D? Not sure here still kinda confused on the whole pill insert thing.

Appreciate any input!
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Old 09-15-2016, 01:09 PM   #3230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmx_ican92 View Post
Looks like the aluminum shock tower prayers have been answered!



From the liverc site- "
VRP would like to introduce its 7075 Aluminum Shock Towers for the Associated B6 buggy. They are 100% made in the USA out of American 7075 aluminum. We make them in house at VRP.

For the Front Shock Tower, there are 2 versions. First, a Standard Tower with the normal shock mounting holes, and then an Option Tower that eliminates the outer shock mounting hole. By doing this, you have the stock middle hole as the very outside hole, as well as the stock inner hole. But as an added tuning option, we added a half hole between the inner and outer hole. This will offer a fine adjustment for the different grip levels found in modern racing.

For the Rear Shock Tower, there are 3 versions. First, the Standard Tower with the normal shock mounting positions. Second, we have the Option Tower. This tower is much like the Front Option Tower. It eliminates the outer hole, and makes the middle hole the outside hole, normal inside hole, and new half hole between the two. Third, we have the Option +2 Tower. This tower is just like the Option Tower, but it raises the wing position up by 2mm. Testing has shown that this increases the total downforce and thus makes the car harder to traction roll. Very much in line with the way F1 aero packages work.

Towers made out of American 7075 Aluminum
CNC, Anodized, and Laser Etched in house at VRP
100% American Made
2 different Front Towers (Standard and Option Tower)
3 different Rear Towers (Standard, Option, and Option +2 Tower)
No more breakage issues
All Towers available in Silver, Blue and Black
Includes Velvet Storage Pouch
Rear Towers include 4 Mounting Washers"
Where can I buy a pair?
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Old 09-15-2016, 01:11 PM   #3231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubonic-X View Post
I was always told if you bundle the antenna wire it creates a coil and that causes glitching. What do you think or have you had any experience in this? Sure does make for a cleaner looking body.
I've done it with all my Futaba receivers and never had an issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by onefast8 View Post
Hey guys, need some help with a few settings on my b6d laydown.

I just finished building my b6d (ill spare you the unimpressive pics) and I'm trying to decide if I want to get new alum. rear hubs or use my B5m single axle height Schelle rear hubs.

What is this adjustment really doing? Is this a well used adjustment? Is it the same as +/- a shim under the outer ballstud? Also, is this a necessary change for raising or lowering the inner hinge pin height?

On that note I am trying to run a wide inner pivot with 2.5 tow in and 1 anti squat. So as far as I can tell I need center 1's facing out in C and center .5's facing out in D? Not sure here still kinda confused on the whole pill insert thing.

Appreciate any input!
I'll let someone else explain the hubs and their adjustments, but here's some good info on the pills for the d/c blocks. You can adjust antisquat and toe, as well as roll center. It is a little confusing to wrap your head around, but a pretty good system once you figure it out. The info on the inserts are mid page.

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ.../B6_BuildTips/

Also a lot of good info in general if you go through all the links on the main page for the B6/D on PetitRC.

Found here:

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...tedRC10B6.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
Where can I buy a pair?
http://www.visionracingproducts.com/...ted-B6_c38.htm
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Last edited by mellow; 09-15-2016 at 01:19 PM. Reason: googling
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Old 09-15-2016, 03:26 PM   #3232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubonic-X View Post
I was always told if you bundle the antenna wire it creates a coil and that causes glitching. What do you think or have you had any experience in this? Sure does make for a cleaner looking body.
Probably heard it most back in the 72 / 75 MHz days. With 2.4 it's generally not an issue as the active antenna is the last 30 - 31 mm ( ? ) un-shielded portion of the wire. For Airtronics rxs I've been coiling the excess wire and use a short antenna tube bent at 90 degrees to keep it all under a buggy body.
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Old 09-15-2016, 03:33 PM   #3233
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Old 09-15-2016, 03:36 PM   #3234
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Nice puss
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Old 09-15-2016, 03:50 PM   #3235
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put the cat away Vito. ;(
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Old 09-15-2016, 03:53 PM   #3236
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iam at a stand still to my new diff parts get in i got a bad stuck cross pin in the out drive
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Old 09-15-2016, 04:09 PM   #3237
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The below is for a different buggy, but checkout all the settings for the bushings. It's easier to understand by looking at what the bushing placements do to toe and anti squat

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/xray/s...2_SetupHelper/



Quote:
Originally Posted by onefast8 View Post
Hey guys, need some help with a few settings on my b6d laydown.

I just finished building my b6d (ill spare you the unimpressive pics) and I'm trying to decide if I want to get new alum. rear hubs or use my B5m single axle height Schelle rear hubs.

What is this adjustment really doing? Is this a well used adjustment? Is it the same as +/- a shim under the outer ballstud? Also, is this a necessary change for raising or lowering the inner hinge pin height?

On that note I am trying to run a wide inner pivot with 2.5 tow in and 1 anti squat. So as far as I can tell I need center 1's facing out in C and center .5's facing out in D? Not sure here still kinda confused on the whole pill insert thing.

Appreciate any input!
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Old 09-15-2016, 04:45 PM   #3238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubonic-X View Post
I was always told if you bundle the antenna wire it creates a coil and that causes glitching. What do you think or have you had any experience in this? Sure does make for a cleaner looking body.
Before I went to the new receivers, I coiled up, shrink tubed and servo taped it to my receiver. Never had an issue in 2 years. It does lower the range. I tested that. But, not enough to mater in racing. Guys are doing it at fear farm, which is large, without issue.
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Old 09-15-2016, 08:48 PM   #3239
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So just had my first outing at the track with my b6, I am noticing my inside front wheel is coming off the ground when I take corners hard. Im running the kit spec set up. Any advice on what I can do to fix this?
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Old 09-15-2016, 09:07 PM   #3240
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Raise the inner ballstud 1mm. Its gonna pick up steering but you want it to roll a little more
instead of picking up the inside wheel.
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