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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

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Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 09-13-2016, 03:10 PM   #3196
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Originally Posted by bmx_ican92 View Post


How did you guys wire your cars up? I think my wiring is decent but I feel like it could be cleaner.
Clean is good, impossible to work on because its so clean is bad. There are a few thigs you can do without making race day repairs impossible. Some things
might be outside your soldering skill so don't feel pressured.

1. Remove the switch from the esc, I usually go inside and solder across the terminals.
2. At that point I would also shorten the esc wire to the rx.
3. If you don't have the solder skills for that you can clean up that bunch of wires in front by folding them neatly and pushing shrink wrap over them.
4.Since you re wiring the esc I would change the ABC wires to black 14g.
5. Shorten the battery cables a bit.
6. Flat sensor wire under the battery.
7. Either coil up the loose RX wire and shrink wrap it into a bundle and shoe goo it to the top of the RX or make a bent antenna that holds it all.
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Old 09-13-2016, 03:36 PM   #3197
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So, I went to buy the B6D last week and all my local hobby stores where out. I ended up getting a b4.2 RTR as I wanted to race one that weekend. I went ahead and bought a new transmitter (DX4C), Motor / ESC combo (Castle SV3 4600kv), new servo (Savox 1257TG), and new tires / wheels. I replaced the front A-Arms with RPM and also the front bulkhead as well. I have two traxxas slash (one for stock class and one PROSCT)

Our 2 boys (9 and 6) love to race on Saturdays. I was thinking of putting the RC4.2 back to stock (also would swap out the Traxxas TX and RX from one of the slash's, this controller is smaller / easier for their hands and less functions to be moved / adjusted, any issues with putting this on a stock RC4.2?) Our oldest would race this in the novice class. Would this be a mistake for a 9 year old to run? Would we be replacing parts often?

I would then put the castle sv3 motor, esc, savox servo, DX4C TX / RX, on the B6D. I would use the wheels / tires I bought as well (I assume the hex style fits on the B6D as well? Other than the spur / pinon and paint for the body anything else I would need? I know I would need a battery (which style batteries do I need to get? square / shorty / Something else?

This would basically use up all the spare parts that I have laying around as well. Any concerns / challenges with doing this?
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Old 09-13-2016, 07:41 PM   #3198
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Ok. Been gone a year . What tires? 2.2 or 60 mm.
Also the length of senor wire
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:06 PM   #3199
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Ok. Been gone a year . What tires? 2.2 or 60 mm.
Also the length of senor wire
Most are back to the 2.2" tires / rims.
175mm for the sensor wire...you could probably get by with 150mm for the laydown but I'd rather play it safe.
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:14 PM   #3200
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Front axle height for most aggressive steering (180's).? I've read the bigger washer in the bottom? I have another buggy where the consensus is the longer bushing on top dramatically increases steering so strange it would be different with this buggy
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:29 PM   #3201
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Front axle height for most aggressive steering (180's).? I've read the bigger washer in the bottom? I have another buggy where the consensus is the longer bushing on top dramatically increases steering so strange it would be different with this buggy
I am running in the +1 position with the D outdoors. In my opinion I wouldn't go any higher than this unless running really low ride heights. I would try the new Schelle Type 1 steering blocks. They are supposed to help in the tighter / 180 turns, looking forward to trying some this weekend.

http://www.schelleracing.com/Schelle...1273?search=b6
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:39 PM   #3202
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So the larger number denotes the larger the bushing on the bottom? I would also imagine this would be universal for all buggies? I'm pretty new to racing this year. I'm very certain the larger bushing on top gave me much more agressive turn in and mid corner steering in my X-ray buggy

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
I am running in the +1 position with the D outdoors. In my opinion I wouldn't go any higher than this unless running really low ride heights. I would try the new Schelle Type 1 steering blocks. They are supposed to help in the tighter / 180 turns, looking forward to trying some this weekend.

http://www.schelleracing.com/Schelle...1273?search=b6
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:55 PM   #3203
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Originally Posted by JAE View Post
So the larger number denotes the larger the bushing on the bottom? I would also imagine this would be universal for all buggies? I'm pretty new to racing this year. I'm very certain the larger bushing on top gave me much more agressive turn in and mid corner steering in my X-ray buggy
+1 would indicate 1mm under the steering block/axle. +2 would be 2mm and so on. Stock on the D is the thin lower and thick upper...I believe this is the same as middle on the B5m. With it in the stock location it feels (to me) that the front end is floating on the surface, the +1 made it feel more connected.
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Old 09-13-2016, 09:07 PM   #3204
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You guys are re-setting ride height after axle height changes, right? Else you're also changing camber link angles and roll centers and ride heights in addition to the axle height.
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Old 09-13-2016, 09:08 PM   #3205
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You guys are re-setting ride height after axle height changes, right? Else you're also changing camber link angles and roll centers and ride heights in addition to the axle height.
Yes. Make sure to re-adjust all the above.
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Old 09-13-2016, 09:26 PM   #3206
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That's actually a very good way of describing how changing the axle height in my other buggy felt for me. However my experience was opposite. Floating a bit mid corner with the bushing on bottom. Flipped to the top and connected. Wonder if it's the geometry of the buggy. My other one has a ton of front droop and a little rear....? Who knows
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
+1 would indicate 1mm under the steering block/axle. +2 would be 2mm and so on. Stock on the D is the thin lower and thick upper...I believe this is the same as middle on the B5m. With it in the stock location it feels (to me) that the front end is floating on the surface, the +1 made it feel more connected.
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Old 09-14-2016, 01:15 AM   #3207
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Re motor cooling fans on B6...

Would it be possible to power the fan from a spare sensor port on the motor?

I've no idea which/what any of the 6 tiny pins/wires are to know if there might be a permanent pos/neg which could power a cooling fan?

Also; Max size of fan that will fit without cutting body? I've seen this somewhere, maybe FB, but can no longer find the post.

Someone asked re sensor wire length, I've just gone down from 175 to 150 on the B6 laydown, still got plenty of slack. On an Orion R10 with sensor port facing the middle channel, worth thinking about what ESC you have and where port is. Measure with string of unsure! #OldSchool
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Old 09-14-2016, 02:08 AM   #3208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 190mph View Post
These Schumacher Low Profile Stagger fronts are annoying to mount on the JConcepts Slim front wheels.


The tires have the lip of the bead made to work with standard width rims basically it feels like.


Does anyone cut back the bead lip on them?
This is how we mount the Schumacher cut stagger:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...m-tyres-2.html

Cut down the mounting bead on the tyre, lowers the profile on the rim.



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Old 09-14-2016, 02:41 AM   #3209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dylanshock View Post
after some battery diff no longer works as it should ... in my group we are 5 with the same problem ... we noticed that the shim much bigger tends to curve perhaps for warmth .... result does not diff constant ... we tried everything, but no positive results ... if I use ball diff I have some problem on astro carpet?
Same here after some packs with the B6, i replaced the 2 shims with a bigger and more solid one, no problem then after more than 30 packs

Looks like AE had some runnings changes on the gear diff since the B5 gear diff is out, they replaced the sims, and some orings on diff outdrives with no success IMHO
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Old 09-14-2016, 03:22 AM   #3210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MiCk B View Post
This is how we mount the Schumacher cut stagger:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...m-tyres-2.html

Cut down the mounting bead on the tyre, lowers the profile on the rim.



MiCk B. :-)
Have you tried the Jconcepts Swaggers. No cutting needed on the tire and they feel great on turf and carpet
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