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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 09-08-2016, 10:00 AM   #3106
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I don't know if I should laugh or shake my head...

I don't care if he's using a NASA satellite or a Polaroid (some might have to Google that)..send the guy a PM
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Old 09-08-2016, 10:15 AM   #3107
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I've not run buggy for 6 years and then it was hit or miss. I'm now running a B6 with box stock shocks, springs and oil. I've updated to the brass bulkhead, Ti front axles, The B5 Schelle rear hubs and Lunsford turnbuckles. We run on ozite, indoor with foam tires. So far I'm having a blast on my return. I'm also setting up a second chassis to blue groove clay/dirt. Just want to say this kit is one awesome ride. Can't wait to get the second kit ready to run.
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Old 09-08-2016, 10:28 AM   #3108
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I don't know if I should laugh or shake my head...

I don't care if he's using a NASA satellite or a Polaroid (some might have to Google that)..send the guy a PM
You should laugh it was a joke.... sort of
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Old 09-08-2016, 10:40 AM   #3109
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Im returning after a 3 year break of RC. Sold all my stuff when the B4.2 was the car to have for dirt and mid motor was starting to be a thing for clay. Raced a B6 last night that the owner of SDRC let me race, after un doing all his carpet stuff it was a pleasure to drive. Looking forward to getting a B6 soon, for now I have a nice B5m to drive. Cheers to you all!
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Old 09-08-2016, 11:35 AM   #3110
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Originally Posted by tylem28 View Post
Just out of curiosity how long did it take each of you to fully assembly the couple kit including motor, esc, servo, receiver, etc. Also for reference was this your first time putting a kit together or did you have experience from in the past builds. Just trying to get an idea as a newbie how long it takes to assembly the entire buggy?

Im not new to RC cars just new to Buggy's. I have a couple of Traxxas Slash and have taken one completely apart to put a LCG chassis on and rebuild the transmission. thanks for all your help!
Just set aside a Saturday and take your time making sure every assembly is built exactly to the kit specs. With the build, electronics install and body it should be easily achievable in a day.

I'm also talking to you on your thread about the b6 vs b4.2 if you have any questions don't hesitate to shoot me a pm.
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Old 09-08-2016, 12:20 PM   #3111
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Well, the B6 is pretty good box- stock on carpet. However, carpet racing has been suspended until sometime in Oct, so I bought a set of white front and green rear springs tp go dirt racing. Hard packed clay, med-high grip. (THunder RC Raceway in Nashville).
Added a set of Electrons for tires. My question is: Do you think the 37.5 front oil iss too stiff? I was thinking trying 32.5, maybe 35w oil in front and leave the rears at 30w. Does that sound like a good starting point? I know B6D calls for 30-30 oil. But I thought the heavier front oil might help on-power steering?
Oh, I'm also going to add the 25 gram brass c block...
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Old 09-08-2016, 12:56 PM   #3112
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Originally Posted by BruceR. View Post
Well, the B6 is pretty good box- stock on carpet. However, carpet racing has been suspended until sometime in Oct, so I bought a set of white front and green rear springs tp go dirt racing. Hard packed clay, med-high grip. (THunder RC Raceway in Nashville).
Added a set of Electrons for tires. My question is: Do you think the 37.5 front oil iss too stiff? I was thinking trying 32.5, maybe 35w oil in front and leave the rears at 30w. Does that sound like a good starting point? I know B6D calls for 30-30 oil. But I thought the heavier front oil might help on-power steering?
Oh, I'm also going to add the 25 gram brass c block...
Way too thick. 30w front 27.5 rear.
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Old 09-08-2016, 01:43 PM   #3113
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just order my kit with a 17.5 and black savox servo low pro one
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Old 09-08-2016, 02:02 PM   #3114
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Way too thick. 30w front 27.5 rear.
Thanks Suby. Looking to get out to practice Wednesday night...got a late start on tearing the buggy down this past week.
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Old 09-08-2016, 03:00 PM   #3115
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I just ordered my very first buggy kit 2wd to race. I'm super stoked i made the decision to go with the b6d and lookforward to building it.
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Old 09-08-2016, 03:21 PM   #3116
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Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
Way too thick. 30w front 27.5 rear.
This.
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Old 09-08-2016, 03:28 PM   #3117
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Anybody knows where we can get the updated shock towers ? aluminum... thicker graphite?
I plan to try the factory rc ones....once he get more in. I have zero desire for alum towers.
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Old 09-08-2016, 05:22 PM   #3118
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Making come back after 4 years my B6 with ball diff
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Old 09-08-2016, 06:21 PM   #3119
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On rear hubs if you only change the hub inserts and no camber link or shock length from+3 to +2 what does this change? Is it adding more roll to rear?
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Old 09-08-2016, 07:20 PM   #3120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scr8pn4205 View Post
On rear hubs if you only change the hub inserts and no camber link or shock length from+3 to +2 what does this change? Is it adding more roll to rear?
It lowers the chassis without changing suspension geometry for sure.
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