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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 09-07-2016, 06:06 AM   #3076
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I haven't driven mine much but forgot loctite and had a screw back out of the aluminum steering rack once.

I run the eliminator because it works at our track and everyone else was already doing it.
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Old 09-07-2016, 08:23 AM   #3077
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Originally Posted by DynaMight View Post
I attend my race meetings by motorcycle so unable to charge at the track (alot of our racing is in a field so require 12v battery for charging) so I pre-charge 3x batteries to get me through the day. Shorty's dont have the capacity to last two races.

Is a square pack not the same size as saddles?
Are you running stock?

I usually use only 1100mah (max) from my 4300mah shorty lipo during our 6 minute quals or mains (indoor track, 8.5T motor), including warmup laps.

It's no problem going two 6 minutes runs/warmups.

Though I typically don't do it, three of those would put me at 3300mah, which is just a hair under the 80% mark (3440mah) of 4300mah but it 'should' be ok.

I don't run stock, and the voltage deltas really aren't an issue. I am only concerned about over-discharge.

What type of mah consumption is everyone else getting?
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Old 09-07-2016, 01:44 PM   #3078
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Are you running stock?

I usually use only 1100mah (max) from my 4300mah shorty lipo during our 6 minute quals or mains (indoor track, 8.5T motor), including warmup laps.

It's no problem going two 6 minutes runs/warmups.

Though I typically don't do it, three of those would put me at 3300mah, which is just a hair under the 80% mark (3440mah) of 4300mah but it 'should' be ok.

I don't run stock, and the voltage deltas really aren't an issue. I am only concerned about over-discharge.

What type of mah consumption is everyone else getting?
I have a 8.5t motor, not much boost or turbo (depends on the track etc) but I previously had some 4800mAh saddles and it was tight running 2x 5 minute heats, the power drop off isnt linear, once it gets down just below storage charge, I found they dropped off very quickly. I had to limit the laps before the start of the heat just to be safe and obviously I had to be careful of the amount of boost etc.


The biggest shorty I've found is 5,000mAh, which maybe do-able, but possibly wouldn't leave much head room. My current saddles are 6,000mAh and after two runs it leaves me at the perfect storage charge so very easy all round.

My current thinking is to buy a B6D plus laydown, winter is indoors which have elec hookups so I can charge, then probably go back to the stand up when its outdoors in the summer.
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Old 09-07-2016, 01:59 PM   #3079
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Protek makes a "5400mah" shorty now --

http://www.protekrc.com/2016/07/18/p...k-now-5400mah/

Stated capacities aren't real accurate, but this might help you a bit.
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Old 09-07-2016, 02:46 PM   #3080
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Originally Posted by tsair View Post
Protek makes a "5400mah" shorty now --

http://www.protekrc.com/2016/07/18/p...k-now-5400mah/

Stated capacities aren't real accurate, but this might help you a bit.
also, as the IR increases, you lose usable mah under a load. Under acceleration a low IR pack with sag the voltage more. Causing LVC sooner.
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Old 09-07-2016, 05:48 PM   #3081
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Originally Posted by DynaMight View Post
I have a 8.5t motor, not much boost or turbo (depends on the track etc) but I previously had some 4800mAh saddles and it was tight running 2x 5 minute heats, the power drop off isnt linear, once it gets down just below storage charge, I found they dropped off very quickly. I had to limit the laps before the start of the heat just to be safe and obviously I had to be careful of the amount of boost etc.


The biggest shorty I've found is 5,000mAh, which maybe do-able, but possibly wouldn't leave much head room. My current saddles are 6,000mAh and after two runs it leaves me at the perfect storage charge so very easy all round.

My current thinking is to buy a B6D plus laydown, winter is indoors which have elec hookups so I can charge, then probably go back to the stand up when its outdoors in the summer.
Get a large mah 4cell lipo and use that to power the charger to charge your smaller lipo's...
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Old 09-07-2016, 08:10 PM   #3082
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DynaMight View Post
I have a 8.5t motor, not much boost or turbo (depends on the track etc) but I previously had some 4800mAh saddles and it was tight running 2x 5 minute heats, the power drop off isnt linear, once it gets down just below storage charge, I found they dropped off very quickly. I had to limit the laps before the start of the heat just to be safe and obviously I had to be careful of the amount of boost etc.


The biggest shorty I've found is 5,000mAh, which maybe do-able, but possibly wouldn't leave much head room. My current saddles are 6,000mAh and after two runs it leaves me at the perfect storage charge so very easy all round.

My current thinking is to buy a B6D plus laydown, winter is indoors which have elec hookups so I can charge, then probably go back to the stand up when its outdoors in the summer.
Ah, got it. Well, another thing to consider is if you get the laydown you'll have to use a shorty. And then you'll probably want to have two on hand even if you have a charger handy. So you'll have at least 2 shorties for indoor and 3 saddles for outdoor, or 5 batteries total. Consider sell/offloading the saddles now and pickup 5-6 shorties. SMC and Turnigy Nanotechs are so reasonably priced.

You won't need all the wonky charging leads that saddles need either.

This certainly isn't the most fiscally sound advice, but it's how my brain justifies things RC related.
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Old 09-07-2016, 08:12 PM   #3083
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On a dis-similar note, this thread is super quiet and falls out of the top 5 regularly without Socket. Whatever happened to him? I kinda miss his perpetually snarky remarks. LOL
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Old 09-07-2016, 08:15 PM   #3084
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On a dis-similar note, this thread is super quiet and falls out of the top 5 regularly without Socket. Whatever happened to him? I kinda miss his perpetually snarky remarks. LOL
rct couldn't handle that much pro level advice
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Old 09-07-2016, 08:16 PM   #3085
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Originally Posted by goehm View Post
On a dis-similar note, this thread is super quiet and falls out of the top 5 regularly without Socket. Whatever happened to him? I kinda miss his perpetually snarky remarks. LOL
I think he was the offspring of Cherry....
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Old 09-07-2016, 08:44 PM   #3086
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i got a savox black servo low pro one do i add spacers
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Old 09-07-2016, 08:52 PM   #3087
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Just out of curiosity how long did it take each of you to fully assembly the couple kit including motor, esc, servo, receiver, etc. Also for reference was this your first time putting a kit together or did you have experience from in the past builds. Just trying to get an idea as a newbie how long it takes to assembly the entire buggy?

Im not new to RC cars just new to Buggy's. I have a couple of Traxxas Slash and have taken one completely apart to put a LCG chassis on and rebuild the transmission. thanks for all your help!
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Old 09-07-2016, 09:05 PM   #3088
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69 View Post
I think he was the offspring of Cherry....
Or is he the dark side of Bertrandsv87?
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Old 09-07-2016, 09:25 PM   #3089
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i got a savox black servo low pro one do i add spacers
I used 2mm spacers for mine and with 2mm under the ball stud with a TLR servo horn it all lined up nicely with clearance.
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Old 09-07-2016, 09:26 PM   #3090
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I must say, after watching these buggies race this past weekend I'm getting the itch to get back into things.
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