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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 09-06-2016, 06:12 AM   #3061
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Here's the Schelle piston advice chart.

At the moment I'm experimenting with VRP pistons (they have valaves that open up for quicker rebound), but they are thicker and may be less smooth with all that material hitting the shock body side wall.

I've tried 3x1.4 all around and I'm going to go back to 1.6 in the front. It's really hard to tell if it's the piston or just my own throttle control and track at that moment.
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Old 09-06-2016, 08:40 AM   #3062
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Default Upgrades for stock

I just finished building and painting my new b6. This was my first build and I had fun with it. I set everything up according to the manual and I know settings will change when I actually make it to the track. I plan on running stock, 17.5, on an indoor turf track. What sort of upgrades should I look into first? TI turnbuckles? Aluminum d mount? Lots to learn as I am completely new to this. Thanks
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Old 09-06-2016, 08:44 AM   #3063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AllDamage View Post
I just finished building and painting my new b6. This was my first build and I had fun with it. I set everything up according to the manual and I know settings will change when I actually make it to the track. I plan on running stock, 17.5, on an indoor turf track. What sort of upgrades should I look into first? TI turnbuckles? Aluminum d mount? Lots to learn as I am completely new to this. Thanks
I would get the D mount first. I like the Ti Turnbuckles as well but the stock ones are fine.
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Old 09-06-2016, 08:51 AM   #3064
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Quote:
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I have the same question as below. Also noticed Kurt wengers newer setups have the 3 hole Pistons in front. Can anyone opine on the rationale behind this? Trying to make piston selection. Thx in advance
I prefer the 3 hole pistons for more steering feel in the front end, especially when running 3rd hole in the front arm (shock out wider on the arm). For middle on the front arm, I usually go back to 2x1.6 pistons if it feels too agressive.

For the rear, the 2x1.7 bevel are my preference, they have the max traction between 3x1.4 and 2x1.7. The larger 1.7 holes don't pack up as much on high speed hits and have less low speed damping.
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Old 09-06-2016, 11:54 AM   #3065
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Thx - Exactly what I was looking for. I will try the 3 hole up front and 2x1.7 rear. I like aggressive steering. Put Schelle pistons in my Xrays and they turned into completely different cars. Hands down best bang for buck 10x. Have to find someone with the 3 hole in stock for this b6. Must be a popular item
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Old 09-06-2016, 01:38 PM   #3066
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Hi all

I'm seriously tempted by a B6. I am limited to saddle packs due to my personal charging situation.

Am I right in thinking the B6D takes saddles? I assume the B6 doesnt due to the longer laydown gearbox?

I race indoor carpet in the winter and outdoor astro/grass in the summer which is all fairly high grip. Is there a massive difference between the standup and laydown? Obviously most people here have gone for the B6 and they are going very well.
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Old 09-06-2016, 02:11 PM   #3067
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Why is it you can only run saddles? You can run either a shorty or a square pack in the B6D
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Old 09-06-2016, 04:38 PM   #3068
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Has anybody ordered any of the shapeways stuff ? Curious how long it takes to get and what kind of quality the parts are ?
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Old 09-06-2016, 04:47 PM   #3069
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Has anybody ordered any of the shapeways stuff ? Curious how long it takes to get and what kind of quality the parts are ?
Sure. It takes like 2 weeks more or less. I ordered a fan mount for my B6.
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Old 09-06-2016, 04:49 PM   #3070
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Quote:
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Has anybody ordered any of the shapeways stuff ? Curious how long it takes to get and what kind of quality the parts are ?
Pretty good quality, takes about a week or so.
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Old 09-06-2016, 05:01 PM   #3071
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Think I am going to order the rear body brace / tab part and then there is also some Team Orion Duo charger extension legs that look pretty nice.
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Old 09-06-2016, 11:15 PM   #3072
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mellow View Post
Why is it you can only run saddles? You can run either a shorty or a square pack in the B6D
I attend my race meetings by motorcycle so unable to charge at the track (alot of our racing is in a field so require 12v battery for charging) so I pre-charge 3x batteries to get me through the day. Shorty's dont have the capacity to last two races.

Is a square pack not the same size as saddles?
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Old 09-06-2016, 11:46 PM   #3073
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DynaMight View Post
I attend my race meetings by motorcycle so unable to charge at the track (alot of our racing is in a field so require 12v battery for charging) so I pre-charge 3x batteries to get me through the day. Shorty's dont have the capacity to last two races.

Is a square pack not the same size as saddles?
B6 with standup transmission: Square, Saddle, Shorty OK.
B6 with laydown transmission: shorty only.

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Old 09-07-2016, 12:40 AM   #3074
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What parts have you guys been breaking most often?

And also, what is the purpose of eliminating the slipper?
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Old 09-07-2016, 03:03 AM   #3075
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmx_ican92 View Post
What parts have you guys been breaking most often?

And also, what is the purpose of eliminating the slipper?
so far I broke:
Rear shock tower
Front bulkhead
Rear wing mount
Rear Hub Link Insert

They say it improves acceleration. I don't really feel it maybe because I upgraded into a Schelle Clutch System (almost tightened all the way). Upgraded to another clutch system due to inconsistency of the stock one. I bought it for my other buggy because of gearing selection.

Last edited by Phillip F; 09-07-2016 at 10:39 AM.
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