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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 09-04-2016, 07:28 PM   #3031
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try 69/30 at the small track... then 72/31 at the bigger track. Adjust timing according to distance of the straight...watch your temp.
Thanks. Is there an ideal temp range or is "cold" always better?
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Old 09-04-2016, 07:50 PM   #3032
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Does AE only offer their plastic servo horns in that 4 piece set? The part number is ASC9180. The part isn't expensive at all, but I have no use for any of the horns other than the Futaba style one.

I guess I could always go with an aluminum horn, but I'd much rather the plastic horn snap rather than an aluminum horn damaging my servo.

I gotta admit though, those plastic horns are a pain to install lol. They don't slide onto the servo very easily.
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Old 09-04-2016, 09:28 PM   #3033
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Not sure if this has been answered...wonder how a B6 with a ball diff would work at ocrc vs the B6d with a lay down...pros and cons...just milling things...
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Old 09-04-2016, 09:39 PM   #3034
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Not sure if this has been answered...wonder how a B6 with a ball diff would work at ocrc vs the B6d with a lay down...pros and cons...just milling things...
It's the same thing only difference will be gullwing or flat front arms. Personally I like on power steering so gullwing arms better fit my driving style. At the surf city cav and Rivkin where driving b6 cars with ball diffs.
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Old 09-04-2016, 09:45 PM   #3035
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It's the same thing only difference will be gullwing or flat front arms. Personally I like on power steering so gullwing arms better fit my driving style. At the surf city cav and Rivkin where driving b6 cars with ball diffs.
I am the same way love on power so a b6 would probably be a better fit with a mip bi metal...hahaha
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Old 09-04-2016, 09:49 PM   #3036
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I've never found the traction at OCRC to be that great. Its ok but seems to get inconsistent. IMHO the B6D with a ball diff and laydown would work best. I'm not sure the traction is there for the gullwing arms and gear diff. I'm not a local there but based on my limited experience there on a good day a B6 with 2k, maybe 3k, would be marginal. I don't know.

I have both cars and I run on sugared blue groove. The regular B6 is fantastic but we had our first dose of cooler temps and B6D was a lot easier to drive. My buddy also has a B6D, but with a laydown tranny and ball diff, and when it cooled off and a traction went away he had an easier time than I did with the B6. The flat arms and ball diff really make for a less edgy and more predictable car when there is less traction.

Just my opinion based on my personal experience and observations. I'm sure somebody will say that they are tq'ing on ice with the B6 every week and run 100k in their diff.
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Old 09-04-2016, 09:54 PM   #3037
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I've never found the traction at OCRC to be that great. Its ok but seems to get inconsistent. IMHO the B6D with a ball diff and laydown would work best. I'm not sure the traction is there for the gullwing arms and gear diff. I'm not a local there but based on my limited experience there on a good day a B6 with 2k, maybe 3k, would be marginal. I don't know.

I have both cars and I run on sugared blue groove. The regular B6 is fantastic but we had our first dose of cooler temps and B6D was a lot easier to drive. My buddy also has a B6D, but with a laydown tranny and ball diff, and when it cooled off and a traction went away he had an easier time than I did with the B6. The flat arms and ball diff really make for a less edgy and more predictable car when there is less traction.

Just my opinion based on my personal experience and observations. I'm sure somebody will say that they are tq'ing on ice with the B6 every week and run 100k in their diff.
True that just pondering the idea of the 6 with a ball diff..I like a ton of steering that's what's pointing me that way...always could change the arms and towers to flat if need be...???
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Old 09-05-2016, 01:05 AM   #3038
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Default Pistons

Is the consensus machined 2 hole 1.6/1.7 Pistons for the laydown on clay? I see some running partial 3 hole, why?
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Old 09-05-2016, 04:33 AM   #3039
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Originally Posted by chris c View Post
True that just pondering the idea of the 6 with a ball diff..I like a ton of steering that's what's pointing me that way...always could change the arms and towers to flat if need be...???
Te only reason i see to buy a B6 is if you plan on buying a MIP diff. If you are going to run AE stuff than get the D and the laydown.
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Old 09-05-2016, 08:53 AM   #3040
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Finally got a chance to see these run in person at OCRC yesterday at the club races and they all looked pretty dialed. Last time i was racing indoor before yesterday was with my FTb4 in 09-10.

I think yesterday was the retirement party for the ftb4... onto a B6D now!
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Old 09-05-2016, 09:22 AM   #3041
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is a slipper lock out need for 17.5 class?
I don't know if it is needed but it is noticeable. Yesterday was the 1st time i had run one. I had been running the slipper locked down(i thought) but it definitely had more pop with the eliminator.
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Old 09-05-2016, 09:31 AM   #3042
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is there something i need to know or look out for or missing in the kit build up
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Old 09-05-2016, 09:34 AM   #3043
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Quote:
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is there something i need to know or look out for or missing in the kit build up
Only issue I ran into was not putting the black plastic spacers on the servo mount causing the steering rack to contact the front brace. Make sure you put those spacers in even though it looks like you wont need them.
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Old 09-05-2016, 10:12 AM   #3044
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Hope my Pistons questionndoesnt get lost in he fold. Pistons on med/high bite clay? 3 hole / 2 hole combo and why for varying conditions? Running a laydown. Thx!!!
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Is the consensus machined 2 hole 1.6/1.7 Pistons for the laydown on clay? I see some running partial 3 hole, why?
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Old 09-05-2016, 10:22 AM   #3045
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is there something i need to know or look out for or missing in the kit build up
I can't remember which assembly I was building, but there was a set screw that I couldn't find in the bag that was called out in the manual. It ended up being in the "extra hardware" bag.
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