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Team Associated B6 & B6D thread

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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 09-04-2016, 01:27 PM
  #3016  
JAE
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B6d with laydown. Thx!!

Originally Posted by Phillip F
Is this a b6d with lay down or just b6? I can text you Jake Mayo is b6 setup. A lot of guys in scvrc are having good results using that coach Wengers setup on line.
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Old 09-04-2016, 02:04 PM
  #3017  
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Got my B6D with laydown built, painted and ran it for some practice laps a couple days ago. All is working really well, definitely notice the lower CoG compared to my B5M. Otherwise it feels similar which is nice. One question, Ive got my fan setup working great, so great in fact that my motor is literally cold to the touch, even in warm non-ac indoor temps after running a full battery. Its a Reedy Sonic 17.5 with the timing all the way up, geared 31/72 currently with a hobbywing justock speed control. Since my motor is staying so cool, what would you guys recommend I try for gearing? Im running indoor only on smooth high traction tracks.

Black wheels


Yellow wheels


Wiring isn't perfect but its close enough to run. Still need to shorten the servo wire and speed control to receiver wire.
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Old 09-04-2016, 02:34 PM
  #3018  
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Originally Posted by Atlatl
Got my B6D with laydown built, painted and ran it for some practice laps a couple days ago. All is working really well, definitely notice the lower CoG compared to my B5M. Otherwise it feels similar which is nice. One question, Ive got my fan setup working great, so great in fact that my motor is literally cold to the touch, even in warm non-ac indoor temps after running a full battery. Its a Reedy Sonic 17.5 with the timing all the way up, geared 31/72 currently with a hobbywing justock speed control. Since my motor is staying so cool, what would you guys recommend I try for gearing? Im running indoor only on smooth high traction tracks.

Black wheels


Yellow wheels


Wiring isn't perfect but its close enough to run. Still need to shorten the servo wire and speed control to receiver wire.
How big is the track? Do you have enough punch to clear the jumps and go around the curves.... If you do... And your temps are super low.... Ditch the fan.
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Old 09-04-2016, 02:35 PM
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Here's my twins
Attached Thumbnails Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-image.jpg  
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Old 09-04-2016, 02:38 PM
  #3020  
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Originally Posted by Phillip F
How big is the track? Do you have enough punch to clear the jumps and go around the curves.... If you do... And your temps are super low.... Ditch the fan.
The main track is small-ish, the secondary track is about 50% longer and pretty sizable for an indoor track. I have enough punch to clear the biggest jump but only if I have my line perfect which doesn't happen nearly enough hah. I know I need more practice but Id like to have a little more punch. Id like to try a different gear combo before throwing money at aftermarket parts.
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Old 09-04-2016, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by suby723
Here's my twins
i don't think you took off enough of the wing to clear those shocks.
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Old 09-04-2016, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
i don't think you took off enough of the wing to clear those shocks.
Right? Lol I used the cut lines on the jc aero wing but decided to mount it 10mm back. The next one I cut I'll keep a little more meat on the bone forsure.
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Old 09-04-2016, 02:55 PM
  #3023  
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ill soon have a new b6 lay down car
what to look out for in the build up and tips
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Old 09-04-2016, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by suby723
Right? Lol I used the cut lines on the jc aero wing but decided to mount it 10mm back. The next one I cut I'll keep a little more meat on the bone forsure.
just givin you a hard time buddy. looks good!

i wouldn't have the balls to post pics of my ride with all the wiring nazi's round these parts. LOL
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Old 09-04-2016, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
just givin you a hard time buddy. looks good!

i wouldn't have the balls to post pics of my ride with all the wiring nazi's round these parts. LOL
I know you where lol man it takes awhile to get the wiring good. Everything has to be shortened. I found with the r10 I could take apart the casing and run the wires out the back of the casing instead of the front. After the b5s and b6s I've gotten a lot better at crimping new wire leads.
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Old 09-04-2016, 03:58 PM
  #3026  
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Suby723 - since you came from an xb2 as well, can you post a setup that exceeded what the xb2 could do? I'm in uber high grip clay with a b6d laydown on the way.... Thx!!!
Originally Posted by suby723
I know you where lol man it takes awhile to get the wiring good. Everything has to be shortened. I found with the r10 I could take apart the casing and run the wires out the back of the casing instead of the front. After the b5s and b6s I've gotten a lot better at crimping new wire leads.
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Old 09-04-2016, 04:16 PM
  #3027  
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Originally Posted by JAE
Suby723 - since you came from an xb2 as well, can you post a setup that exceeded what the xb2 could do? I'm in uber high grip clay with a b6d laydown on the way.... Thx!!!
I would start with Kurt wengers setup minus the rear tower and longer rear shock bodies for a baseline.

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...CRC2016082628/

Also they lie about the springs. All the top Ae guys are running green rear Yokomo springs(non yatabe) and white front kyosho springs. My carpet car is similar to Ryan cavs eos setup but I use Yokomo yatabe springs. You are going to love the car! It's night and day better then the xb2. The xb2 was an epic letdown IMO but it's the first year car so I would expect the 17 model to be better. Anyways enjoy!
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Old 09-04-2016, 05:16 PM
  #3028  
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suby do you have part nos for those springs?

I can't wait to get my B6 on the track
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Old 09-04-2016, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
suby do you have part nos for those springs?

I can't wait to get my B6 on the track
Yes sir,


https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-a1200/p417650

https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-...xgs002/p193576

I've been so impressed with the b6. I even raced it on a low/med surface with the laydown and it was fairly easy to drive but I did get the b6d just because I have been so impressed with the platform I just had to get them both lol
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Old 09-04-2016, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Atlatl
The main track is small-ish, the secondary track is about 50% longer and pretty sizable for an indoor track. I have enough punch to clear the biggest jump but only if I have my line perfect which doesn't happen nearly enough hah. I know I need more practice but Id like to have a little more punch. Id like to try a different gear combo before throwing money at aftermarket parts.
try 69/30 at the small track... then 72/31 at the bigger track. Adjust timing according to distance of the straight...watch your temp.
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