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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 09-02-2016, 11:32 AM   #2986
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From their facebook page, it seems like they run slicks, but I don't know for sure. It's a track I'd like to go to, so I'm curious well.
Yup, Primes or Smoothies, clay compound.

How about wheels, any go to's or are they all pretty much the same?
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Old 09-02-2016, 11:34 AM   #2987
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I've always used Associated wheels since they're cheap and do what they're supposed to, also got some Raw Speeds to try.
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Old 09-02-2016, 11:37 AM   #2988
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Yup, Primes or Smoothies, clay compound.

How about wheels, any go to's or are they all pretty much the same?
AE wheels are the best IMO and a great price.
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Old 09-02-2016, 11:50 AM   #2989
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AE wheels are the best IMO and a great price.
Are you serious? Of the wheels I have tested, AE/proline are the worst. AKA seems to have the best 2.4 wheel and avid the best 2.2 wheel. My criteria is "durability", hex engagement and fit/finish.
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Old 09-02-2016, 12:03 PM   #2990
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Are you serious? Of the wheels I have tested, AE/proline are the worst. AKA seems to have the best 2.4 wheel and avid the best 2.2 wheel. My criteria is "durability", hex engagement and fit/finish.

Don't say that about your sponsors, LOL
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Old 09-02-2016, 12:42 PM   #2991
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Don't say that about your sponsors, LOL
That's only for the tires and not the wheels.
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Old 09-02-2016, 12:52 PM   #2992
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Quote:
Originally Posted by microjam View Post
B6D laydown - any tire recommendations for SCVRC track? (high bite clay if I'm not mistaken..)
Quote:
Originally Posted by mellow View Post
From their facebook page, it seems like they run slicks, but I don't know for sure. It's a track I'd like to go to, so I'm curious well.
everyone is running primes
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Old 09-02-2016, 01:10 PM   #2993
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^^ Thanks!
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Old 09-02-2016, 02:35 PM   #2994
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Out of all the wheels I gotta say, tires seem to glue up really easy on the AKA wheels. The XRay wheels are actually good too but they charge by the ounce for those and they're just a touch cheaper than gold.
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Old 09-02-2016, 03:28 PM   #2995
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Out of all the wheels I gotta say, tires seem to glue up really easy on the AKA wheels. The XRay wheels are actually good too but they charge by the ounce for those and they're just a touch cheaper than gold.
+1 AKA wheels seem to fit most brands of tires better for me. they glue up better and I don't get out of shape tires. The outer rim edge is thick so it last a long time especially recycling them multiple times. If they are rough, I just sand them down then re use them.

AE wheels are ok, but seem to be too flexible.

I hate the proline recess for the nut. Make tire changes a pain.
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Old 09-02-2016, 03:34 PM   #2996
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Just need a few more parts and I will finally be ready to put this new unit together!
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Old 09-02-2016, 03:41 PM   #2997
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Did you send out all those parts to get anodized yourself? I thought about doing that after seeing the blacked out version Wallie Builds is offering.
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Old 09-02-2016, 03:54 PM   #2998
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I did send them out to my anodize guy. I have no idea who this Wallie Builds guy is but I'd like to see his stuff
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Old 09-02-2016, 03:57 PM   #2999
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I wish I would have done the same, especially since I wont be able to drive this thing for a couple weeks. All black with the gold turnbuckles looks great.

Wallie Builds does a kit build service for people who don't want to do it themselves, and they will also do rebuilds and the like.

https://www.instagram.com/wallie_builds/

https://www.facebook.com/WallieBuilds/
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Last edited by mellow; 09-02-2016 at 04:09 PM.
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Old 09-02-2016, 04:05 PM   #3000
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Wallie Builds= Nick Wautlet , he's on FB

He works for AE and is sponsored. Does really clean wiring jobs.
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