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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 08-31-2016, 12:24 PM   #2926
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Originally Posted by BIGSKI15 View Post
When adding the 25g weight, are you adding some weight to the front too to reduce the pendulum effect or does it remain somewhat balanced?
No, there's no pendulum effect where it's mounted.... to me.
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Old 08-31-2016, 04:32 PM   #2927
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69 View Post
Ran the setup minus the shock oil recommendation and it was DIALED. It was outdoors, medium traction. So much forward bite. I could have tweaked the anti-squat to get a little more initial side bite but was happy overall. Trying the laydown this weekend for the first time on a medium to high-bite indoor track.
Hi mate, glad to hear the setup is working for you!!

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There's almost nothing to making the 25g brass mount work. It's a 10 second job. Just notch either the motor plate or the mount with a dremel and sanding drum. Simple and easy.
+1 Yep its not too hard to do. Hopefully we can get a small design change so it fits both the laydown and standup.

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When adding the 25g weight, are you adding some weight to the front too to reduce the pendulum effect or does it remain somewhat balanced?
Agree with Adam - the heavier brass C weight sits just in front of the rear axle and doesn't add a noticeable pendulum effect (unless you are running on super high grip). Adding weight at the D block (behind the axle) does tend to have a more dramatic effect and I only use it when I really need more forward bite. Adding weight to the front takes away forward bite but sometimes a heavier car works better on certain surfaces. This is when I run the brass weight under the battery as that is the ideal place for added weight.
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Old 09-01-2016, 05:59 AM   #2928
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I'm going to preface this by saying... I'm coming out of a nearly 20yr racing retirement. I need a hobby to break up the grind. Last time I raced... it was anoOriginal World's car. I've picked up and built a few AE kits to build (enjoy that as much as racing) for fun and played a little, but no racing.

Now I've picked up a B6 and B6D. It's great to see the tech advances with Wifi radios, brushless esc/motors and LiPos. By far the most confusing to me is the LiPo technology.

Question time... AE's site says "7.4V LiPo or 6.6V LiFe battery (saddle pack, shorty pack, or square pack)". Looking around the web, the manual, etc I've only seen shorty packs used. How would you mount a square or saddle pack? What would really be best form factor for some stock buggy racing? Recommendations on LiPo specs?
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Old 09-01-2016, 06:17 AM   #2929
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Originally Posted by lmw94002 View Post
I'm going to preface this by saying... I'm coming out of a nearly 20yr racing retirement. I need a hobby to break up the grind. Last time I raced... it was anoOriginal World's car. I've picked up and built a few AE kits to build (enjoy that as much as racing) for fun and played a little, but no racing.

Now I've picked up a B6 and B6D. It's great to see the tech advances with Wifi radios, brushless esc/motors and LiPos. By far the most confusing to me is the LiPo technology.

Question time... AE's site says "7.4V LiPo or 6.6V LiFe battery (saddle pack, shorty pack, or square pack)". Looking around the web, the manual, etc I've only seen shorty packs used. How would you mount a square or saddle pack? What would really be best form factor for some stock buggy racing? Recommendations on LiPo specs?
The B6D can fit a square pack, or shorty pack. The B6 can only use a shorty. For stock classes, a high quality shorty pack will be the way to go.
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Old 09-01-2016, 06:52 AM   #2930
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hey guys running basically box setup but need more initial turn in. Going into slow 180s the car just pushes wide. Running 3 Gear Mod on a low traction indoor hand packed. Any suggestions on what to start with.
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Old 09-01-2016, 06:59 AM   #2931
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Here is a sneak peek of something to be released soon from VRP. No more breaking shock towers. They will weigh within a gram or so of the stock carbon towers

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Old 09-01-2016, 07:43 AM   #2932
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lmw94002 View Post
I'm going to preface this by saying... I'm coming out of a nearly 20yr racing retirement. I need a hobby to break up the grind. Last time I raced... it was anoOriginal World's car. I've picked up and built a few AE kits to build (enjoy that as much as racing) for fun and played a little, but no racing.

Now I've picked up a B6 and B6D. It's great to see the tech advances with Wifi radios, brushless esc/motors and LiPos. By far the most confusing to me is the LiPo technology.

Question time... AE's site says "7.4V LiPo or 6.6V LiFe battery (saddle pack, shorty pack, or square pack)". Looking around the web, the manual, etc I've only seen shorty packs used. How would you mount a square or saddle pack? What would really be best form factor for some stock buggy racing? Recommendations on LiPo specs?
100c if you want the most out of a stock motor, if you're not concerned with that any sub 100c will work. All batteries for 1/10 cars are going to be 2s 7.4. A shorty is what you want.
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Old 09-01-2016, 07:59 AM   #2933
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Here is a sneak peek of something to be released soon from VRP. No more breaking shock towers. They will weigh within a gram or so of the stock carbon towers

Nice! Plan to Anodize in Black and AE Blue? Actually Gun Metal anodize would look awesome.

Could they bend by any chance?
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Old 09-01-2016, 08:20 AM   #2934
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Nice! Plan to Anodize in Black and AE Blue? Actually Gun Metal anodize would look awesome.

Could they bend by any chance?
They will be available in silver, blue and black. I've been testing them for a while now, no issues. But, say if somehow you were able to bend it in a really bad wreck, you would still be able to finish your race vs. a carbon tower would snap.
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Old 09-01-2016, 09:16 AM   #2935
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So I Have had these cars for a while,,,I noticed when building the slots in the side pods, wanted to try touring car reinforced tape to tie the battery down.

Finally got the time to try it out, really like it , especially if you run battery all the way forward,
a small lower bump stop would be great if moving battery back.


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Old 09-01-2016, 09:54 AM   #2936
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They will be available in silver, blue and black. I've been testing them for a while now, no issues. But, say if somehow you were able to bend it in a really bad wreck, you would still be able to finish your race vs. a carbon tower would snap.
What kind of aluminum are they made from?
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Old 09-01-2016, 10:12 AM   #2937
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What kind of aluminum are they made from?
American 7075. We design and cut them in house here at VRP. No china made stuff here. 100% american made.
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Old 09-01-2016, 10:16 AM   #2938
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That's what I was hoping you would say
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Old 09-01-2016, 12:29 PM   #2939
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Default Ball cups

I bought an extra set of B6 ballcups and thought I'd put them on my T5M, I installed them and they're tight. The ball studs haven't changed but can't figure out why they're really tight. I might just leave the old reamed out ones on.
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Old 09-01-2016, 12:42 PM   #2940
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American 7075. We design and cut them in house here at VRP. No china made stuff here. 100% american made.
How much are they going for?
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