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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 08-27-2016, 02:48 PM   #2881
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Awesome, thank you! Am also considering getting a steel gear for added weight in the back...
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Old 08-27-2016, 02:49 PM   #2882
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Probably best to add weight outside of the drivetrain if you're running stock. Hence the plastic pinion used by Layton.
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Old 08-27-2016, 02:54 PM   #2883
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Yeah try to keep weight as low as possible in your rotating parts. The brass C block would be a better alternative.
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Old 08-27-2016, 05:44 PM   #2884
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My b6 was very good at thunder. I placed 6th in the Amain at the sizzler race. You will need a ball diff. Remove the waterfall to push the battery back as far as possible, 25gram brass weight and white front springs and green rear should be a good baseline setup.
In my frustration about Matt being passive aggressive on not racing, I ordered a b6d and will be racing at thunder a lot more.
Thanks for the reply. What 25 gram weight are you talking about? I see a 24g steel chassis weight. Do you happen to have a part #? I might try the gear diff with 4k oil in it for a couple of practice nights.
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Old 08-27-2016, 11:48 PM   #2885
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Uh oh...
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Old 08-28-2016, 06:05 AM   #2886
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Here's a cool motor plate design by VRP. Incorporates the spur protector idea into the plate.



http://www.neobuggy.net/2016/08/24/v...-motor-plates/
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Old 08-28-2016, 07:02 AM   #2887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceR. View Post
Thanks for the reply. What 25 gram weight are you talking about? I see a 24g steel chassis weight. Do you happen to have a part #? I might try the gear diff with 4k oil in it for a couple of practice nights.
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts...m_mount_c_25g/
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Old 08-28-2016, 12:08 PM   #2888
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I know its early but has anyone installed the MIP top shaft yet and notice a difference?
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Old 08-28-2016, 12:55 PM   #2889
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Trying to post a photo and I'm struggling. Any help?

Last edited by NCOHOG; 08-28-2016 at 12:59 PM. Reason: Photo link didn't work
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Old 08-28-2016, 01:07 PM   #2890
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[img] *image address* [/img]
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Old 08-28-2016, 01:16 PM   #2891
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Thanks for the help. Finally figured it out.

Finished up a little work in the awesome factory today.
Just need to do a little deburr work.

Last edited by NCOHOG; 08-28-2016 at 01:30 PM.
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Old 08-28-2016, 01:37 PM   #2892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCOHOG View Post



Thanks for the help. Finally figured it out.

Finished up a little work in the awesome factory today.
Just need to do a little deburr work.
Those look great. Great job!
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Old 08-28-2016, 01:45 PM   #2893
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was anyone missing the little tiny orings that go on the outdrives?

The manual didn't show them so I figured it was ok but someone said his diff leaked all over the place without them.
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Old 08-28-2016, 02:16 PM   #2894
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Get some MIP outdrives and lighten those. Money.
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Old 08-28-2016, 07:14 PM   #2895
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I know it was discussed but I can't remember. Is there a difference on the alum hubs if you put the zero degree etching facing forward or back?
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