R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: RCBuddha
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

Print Wikipost

Like Tree285Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-26-2016, 12:24 PM   #2851
Super Moderator
 
Matt Trimmings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 5,690
Trader Rating: 156 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by M2126 View Post
Planning to get a b6d. This is my first 10th scale 2wd buggy.

What are some basic must have upgrades to start? I'm planning to run stock class at ocrc. Anyone know how much weight savings the titanium screw set and the turnbuckles give?
Schelle Ti screw set will save about 15g, turnbuckles are somewhere in the 10-15g range I think. Uprgade wise I would get the aluminum D mount for more adjustments....that should be it.
__________________
Thanks to: JConcepts ~ Schelle ~ Kustom RC Graphics

#MakeRCTechGreatAgain
Matt Trimmings is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2016, 12:25 PM   #2852
Tech Fanatic
 
jmcelroy42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 957
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

I put the AE Aluminum screws (for B5M) and AE Ti turnbuckles and MIP Pucks on mine and was right around 1450g.
__________________
EB48.4 - TEKIN RX8 & SMC 2100
XB4 '16 - TEKIN RSX & ORCA 5.5
RC10B6 - HW Justock & 24K 17.5
jmcelroy42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2016, 12:26 PM   #2853
Tech Fanatic
 
egalsim's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 827
Trader Rating: 39 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by M2126 View Post
Planning to get a b6d. This is my first 10th scale 2wd buggy.

What are some basic must have upgrades to start? I'm planning to run stock class at ocrc. Anyone know how much weight savings the titanium screw set and the turnbuckles give?
Upgrades? Tracktime. It's fine the way it is.
__________________
Associated RC10B6 / Kyosho Optima / Associated Tekno SC8e / Awesomatix A700exl / Serpent Cobra BE 2.1 Rally / Kyosho MP9 Tki3.5 Tekno V4 / Team C TM4 / Tamiya Bruiser
egalsim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2016, 12:32 PM   #2854
Tech Prophet
 
Wildcat1971's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 16,907
Trader Rating: 80 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
Schelle Ti screw set will save about 15g, turnbuckles are somewhere in the 10-15g range I think. Uprgade wise I would get the aluminum D mount for more adjustments....that should be it.
+1000000

I would say that is probably the best upgrade. way more tunability
__________________
Support: Team Associated | Reedy Motors & ESC's | Sanwa Radios | Avid | Proline Tires
Wildcat1971 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2016, 12:37 PM   #2855
Super Moderator
 
racer1812's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
Posts: 14,695
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmcelroy42 View Post
I put the AE Aluminum screws (for B5M) and AE Ti turnbuckles and MIP Pucks on mine and was right around 1450g.
Which is right around 49g. under legal weight..

(about 10 nickles worth)
__________________
Stand for the flag, kneel for the fallen.

Thank you to all of our service men and women!

racer1812 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2016, 12:50 PM   #2856
Tech Fanatic
 
mellow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 843
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
+1000000

I would say that is probably the best upgrade. way more tunability
The tunability this car has compared to the b4 makes my brain hurt. I'm still trying to wrap my head around all the different inserts for the c/d blocks.
__________________
"It'd be a lot cooler if you did."
mellow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2016, 01:03 PM   #2857
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,995
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Ti turnbuckles are only about 8g by the way. Ill spend that $25 on tires. D block would gain you the most benefit. Only other thing i am really trying that i think will be noticeable is the long shocks in back and Scheme 31mm tower. Everything else is just perceived cool factor in my opinion
__________________
"Go that way really fast, if something gets in your way, turn"
TLR 22 3.5 SR, TLR 22-4 1.875, Sanwa M12S, Savox, Hobbywing, Schuurspeed, Protek
DG Designs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2016, 01:34 PM   #2858
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 18
Default

do you have the part numbers for the D block and the 31mm tower?

thanks
M2126 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2016, 01:39 PM   #2859
Tech Fanatic
 
mellow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 843
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

D block:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...c91688/p507425

Tower:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...c91666/p512484

Pretty sure you'll need the longer 31mm shock bodies though.
__________________
"It'd be a lot cooler if you did."
mellow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2016, 01:43 PM   #2860
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 18
Default

thanks!
M2126 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2016, 01:47 PM   #2861
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 18
Default

sorry, im pretty newb, do i need to get a new set of inserts for the extra tunability or do i use stock inserts?
M2126 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2016, 01:48 PM   #2862
Tech Fanatic
 
mellow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 843
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

The kit comes with a set of inserts that you can use.
__________________
"It'd be a lot cooler if you did."
mellow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2016, 01:51 PM   #2863
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 18
Default

great thanks, one more Q - for the longer shocks in the back, do i get both long shock body (31mm) and shaft? or just long body and stock shaft is ok? thanks again
M2126 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2016, 01:54 PM   #2864
Super Moderator
 
Matt Trimmings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 5,690
Trader Rating: 156 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by M2126 View Post
great thanks, one more Q - for the longer shocks in the back, do i get both long shock body (31mm) and shaft? or just long body and stock shaft is ok? thanks again
Shaft is the same size for either setup.
__________________
Thanks to: JConcepts ~ Schelle ~ Kustom RC Graphics

#MakeRCTechGreatAgain
Matt Trimmings is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-26-2016, 01:55 PM   #2865
Tech Fanatic
 
mellow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: CA
Posts: 843
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Shock shafts are the same.

As others have said though, if this is your first 2wd buggy, I'd recommend skipping the long tower and shock bodies for now, and put that money towards 1-2 sets of tires, and some spare arms.
__________________
"It'd be a lot cooler if you did."
mellow is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 6 (0 members and 6 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 04:56 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net