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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 05-03-2016, 10:10 PM   #271
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Is anyone thinking B6D for the ball diff and flat front arm/tower with laydown kit added on, ball diff and rear shocks mounted behind arms? Also using ti rods from B5m, and aluminum hubs.
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Old 05-03-2016, 10:24 PM   #272
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69 View Post
The weights held in by grub screws is cool. Need to make a cf weight just so you can clean your car without adding weight for stock. Cool little features in new car. Battery hold down is going to be so nice, no foams or dealing with tight space.

Can't wait to see all the different setups. Stock Nats will be give a better idea for grip like OCRC. Wonder how weight looks with out of box build.
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Old 05-03-2016, 10:27 PM   #273
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the carpet b6 would run a super high grip clay okay or would it be better to go with the 6d?
I asked Kody from AE the same question. He advised to go with the B6D for dirt/clay tracks. If you feel the need to go with the lay down transmission it is less expensive to buy the parts to convert to the lay down transmission then to get a B6 then have to get all the parts for the B6. So I'm going with the B6D and all I have to buy is the lay down transmission case, idler gear, waterfall and motor plate.
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Old 05-03-2016, 11:16 PM   #274
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Guys,


I think we need to invent the track grip level checker tool.


I think something like a Swiffer with Sensors and a display meter. Just mount a replaceable pad and rub the track in a few places and get a reading. Then we can have a matrix chart developed to give an indication on what setup to use!


LOL!
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Old 05-04-2016, 05:23 AM   #275
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On Clay use ankle twist method. If your foot sticks while you try to twist you may need the B6. Otherwise it will be the B6D.
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Old 05-04-2016, 05:25 AM   #276
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Originally Posted by 190mph View Post
Guys,


I think we need to invent the track grip level checker tool.


I think something like a Swiffer with Sensors and a display meter. Just mount a replaceable pad and rub the track in a few places and get a reading. Then we can have a matrix chart developed to give an indication on what setup to use!


LOL!
Here is what they use in the NHRA
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Old 05-04-2016, 05:38 AM   #277
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Wonder why they didn't put out a new b44.4 first.
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Old 05-04-2016, 06:24 AM   #278
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Originally Posted by cosmicpilot View Post
Wonder why they didn't put out a new b44.4 first.
Kody gave me the impression that 2wd is easier to design than a 4wd.
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Old 05-04-2016, 06:31 AM   #279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cosmicpilot View Post
Wonder why they didn't put out a new b44.4 first.
Because they finished the 2wd B6 first Stay tuned
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Old 05-04-2016, 07:15 AM   #280
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Any info on trans ratio? Same as the B5M?
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Old 05-04-2016, 07:15 AM   #281
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Want an SC6. That will be a while thou. :/
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Old 05-04-2016, 07:31 AM   #282
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Originally Posted by brian6674 View Post
Any info on trans ratio? Same as the B5M?
Should be the same, I don't think there would be any reason to change that.
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Old 05-04-2016, 07:53 AM   #283
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Any info on trans ratio? Same as the B5M?
Same ratio. Was Confirmed on the Facebook thread
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Old 05-04-2016, 10:13 AM   #284
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Want an SC6. That will be a while thou. :/
hmm that's funny...

Official TLR 22 3.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Old 05-04-2016, 10:15 AM   #285
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Quote:
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Kody gave me the impression that 2wd is easier to design than a 4wd.
They're just trying to figure out how NOT make it look like an Xray
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