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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 08-25-2016, 10:48 AM   #2821
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Originally Posted by lyons238 View Post
i was on board with you until you said turn wheel more. turning the wheel more when your car is pushing wont solve the problem. if your going to be smart, at least be intelligent.
Meh....whatever. Point is not enough info.
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Old 08-25-2016, 11:25 AM   #2822
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Originally Posted by rvrslt1 View Post
Thanks for the help. Will try to turn a little more

3 gear lay down. Brass C mount AE front bulk head Gray front 32.5 oil 2x1.6 green rear 30wt oil green spring 2x1.7. Schelle rear hubs 22mm front and back ride. -1 camber front and rear. Clay track with proline electrons
Real close to Kurt's set up from Schelle

Thanks
My car pushed more than I liked, before going to pucks. I am sure there are many ways to gain steering, and we could debate setup/tires all day. What Matt was getting at is: Now way to tell from rctech why your car is pushing. Even with your setup, now way to really know. Drag brake/manual brake to set the car up. Throttle inputs before, in and exiting the corner and more. You will only get generic high level info here. The best thing you can do is have a local fast guy run a few laps with your car and look over your tire prep. My car turned much better on indoor clay with pucks. It always has. Both on entry and exiting on power. I have tested it many times. That being said, you can compensate with driving style to make the car "driveable"
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Old 08-25-2016, 12:00 PM   #2823
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
Meh....whatever. Point is not enough info.
im just messing around anyway, now worries bruh
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Old 08-25-2016, 12:20 PM   #2824
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Really chaps

I must be missing something what is this puk all about

If they really are soooo much better why isn't cragg cavileri rivkin running them.

Or Is its a slow stock racing thing

Can some one explain this

Cheers
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Old 08-25-2016, 12:22 PM   #2825
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Really chaps

I must be missing something what is this puk all about

If they really are soooo much better why isn't cragg cavileri rivkin running them.

Or Is its a slow stock racing thing

Can some one explain this

Cheers
just slow cars chap
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Old 08-25-2016, 01:27 PM   #2826
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Yep slow car crap
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Old 08-25-2016, 01:56 PM   #2827
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Does anyone know what happened to the B6 setup sheets on petitrc? I thought maybe they were uploading new set ups last night but it's not there today either.
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Old 08-25-2016, 01:59 PM   #2828
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
Yep slow car crap
Yes I need them for my slow 17.5 car too...

Will keep working on set up.
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Old 08-25-2016, 02:06 PM   #2829
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Any tips for associated x rings? Soak em? Slime em? Just put them in?
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Old 08-25-2016, 02:16 PM   #2830
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Slime em...
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Old 08-25-2016, 02:57 PM   #2831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGSKI15 View Post
Does anyone know what happened to the B6 setup sheets on petitrc? I thought maybe they were uploading new set ups last night but it's not there today either.

Their site was hacked and the last backup they had was from November 2015. All new data gone.
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Old 08-25-2016, 03:21 PM   #2832
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Awesome

Keep up the good work

I think us lot here in the uk will stick with 7.5/6.5 or 5.5 if your brave

And not bother with all that messing around with puks or direct drive etc 👍👍👍👍
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Old 08-25-2016, 03:55 PM   #2833
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I have a Trackstar TS-915, Futaba spline specs, but the B6D kit servo horn is too small. I know there are aftermarket servos, but is there a workaround for this without buying a different one? Shouldn't TA send a free part to fix this?
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Old 08-25-2016, 04:02 PM   #2834
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The plastic kit servo horns fit tight. Use the screw to pull it down on the splines.
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Old 08-25-2016, 04:03 PM   #2835
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I think the spline is just extremely tight fitting. It should go on there...now getting it off is another story.
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