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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 08-24-2016, 10:36 AM   #2791
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 View Post
Will the exotek slipper elim from the B5 fit on the B6?
yes
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Old 08-24-2016, 11:05 AM   #2792
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Good to know.. I have a team orion servo, whcih I believe uses the same horn.

On the exotek slipper elim, it works.
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Old 08-24-2016, 11:27 AM   #2793
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It fits perfectly onto the spline. The only issue I've had is that since its aluminum, the servo horn screw has come loose twice, so I used a small amount of loctite

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Originally Posted by 190mph View Post
Tower has in stock the #1366 25T Futaba fitting servo horn if anyone is waiting for this. I just hope it slips on nice, I hate the badly made spline teeth ones that you have to hammer on and pry off with the screwdriver.




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Old 08-24-2016, 11:35 AM   #2794
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It fits perfectly onto the spline. The only issue I've had is that since its aluminum, the servo horn screw has come loose twice, so I used a small amount of loctite
Also, the servo link tends to bind up more than the rest of the ball cups. which helps the stud come loose. you can use the b5 pinch method or use a ball cup reamer. I pinched mine until it was good
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Old 08-24-2016, 12:22 PM   #2795
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B5 pinch method?
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Old 08-24-2016, 12:23 PM   #2796
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B5 pinch method?
pinch the ballcup while it is installed on a ball to free it up.
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Old 08-24-2016, 01:31 PM   #2797
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pinch the ballcup while it is installed on a ball to free it up.
That's kind of what I figured. Thanks Matt.
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Old 08-24-2016, 07:41 PM   #2798
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How much weight do you have to add for a B6 to make weight? sorry haven't been keepin up. do I need to buy that brass sheet to go under the batt?
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Old 08-24-2016, 08:22 PM   #2799
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 View Post
How much weight do you have to add for a B6 to make weight? sorry haven't been keepin up. do I need to buy that brass sheet to go under the batt?
With the bi-metal pucks from a B5, lay down tranny, cut gears, full size servo, xr10 juststock, Exotek slipper eliminator, Pro-Line front wing and mount, Pro-Line body, and 2.2 Electrons (everything else stock). My B6D is weighing in at 1496 grams. I'm going to switch to the Hobbywing 3.1 stock spec esc and add a fan to the motor to get it up to legal weight.
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Old 08-24-2016, 08:53 PM   #2800
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About the pucks system...I've been out of the scene for awhile, so bear with me.

It's my understanding that the 17.5 puck system here: https://www.amainhobbies.com/mip-puc...p16080/p520428 would be better for stock racing..hence the name.

And the bi metal puck system here: https://www.amainhobbies.com/mip-ass...p16060/p524958 is more suited for mod?

It appears the bi metal kit would be a heavier overall system with the steel outdrives and metal pucks, compared to the plastic pucks and aluminum outdrives on the 17.5 system. This sound about right?
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Old 08-24-2016, 09:01 PM   #2801
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 190mph View Post
I don't like any of Associated's plastic 1/10 scale servo horns in the kit. They never fit on the Futaba at least. You can see the servo spline teeth cutting into the horribly made molds. Just never felt sure it was gonna fit right.
Pretty much the way to go now- clamping for the B6;

https://www.amainhobbies.com/exotek-...547blk/p467028

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Old 08-24-2016, 09:22 PM   #2802
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Just starting a B6D with Laydown kit. I'm just going by the manual in the box - is there a more updated version online that I should be using?

Last edited by microjam; 08-24-2016 at 11:49 PM.
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Old 08-24-2016, 09:23 PM   #2803
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use the online version
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Old 08-24-2016, 10:19 PM   #2804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mellow View Post
About the pucks system...I've been out of the scene for awhile, so bear with me.

It's my understanding that the 17.5 puck system here: https://www.amainhobbies.com/mip-puc...p16080/p520428 would be better for stock racing..hence the name.

And the bi metal puck system here: https://www.amainhobbies.com/mip-ass...p16060/p524958 is more suited for mod?

It appears the bi metal kit would be a heavier overall system with the steel outdrives and metal pucks, compared to the plastic pucks and aluminum outdrives on the 17.5 system. This sound about right?
You are correct. The 17.5 version is the one I have in my car. I think in the past that one was called bi-metal. Anyway, the all aluminum is the way to go for 17.5 racing.
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Old 08-25-2016, 06:34 AM   #2805
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Is it true that the puck system is costly than using the stock parts?
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