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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 08-21-2016, 09:36 PM   #2761
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Originally Posted by Cuebulon View Post
where is everyone mounting their transponders?
Vertical on the front of the servo. Originally had it flat in front of the servo, but was it was missing hits - 2 or 3 laps in 5 minute races. Thought it was strange because that's where I had it on the B5m for 6 months and never missed a lap.

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Old 08-21-2016, 09:36 PM   #2762
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Took my b6d out to the track for the first time today and almost finished my day without breaking anything. Technically didn't break and actually just lost a rear inner hinge pin. Easy fix.

Anyway, being my first experience with 2wd buggys (17.5), I had no real issues learning how to drive the b6d with the box setup with the exception of jumps. I feel as if I just don't get enough acceleration on jumps and it keeps me from moving around the track quickly. I have a Reedy Sonic 17.5 with 72/31 gearing.

I was having the most trouble with the rhythm section at my track which most were taking as a "double double" and the final set of jumps before the straight (single double). Here's a video of the current layout:
https://youtu.be/n9g0LsxYXq4

Should I be able to take the jumps the way I described with a 17.5 setup, or am I really limited to taking single jumps? My first instinct was to tighten my slipper a bit, as I did have a little bit of slipping happening on full throttle. Other than that though I didn't know what else to tweak.
Try 72/30. That was the sweet spot for me. Fast and Timps of 145 with no fan.
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Old 08-21-2016, 09:40 PM   #2763
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i also run at norcal. on that back section, it's double/double all day. shouldn't be a problem even for 17.5, although i've seen some buggies struggle with it in the intermediate classes. some of that is driving, some of it is setup, maybe some of it is not great electronics (battery/motor).

limeaway, which reedy motor are you using? if you're using the short stack mach 3, i'd go down to 30/72 and play with endbell timing. also are you running a fan on your motor?
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Old 08-21-2016, 10:50 PM   #2764
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I originally had the lock nut flush with the top of the slipper shaft as instructed by the manual, but after tightening it I have about 2 threads visible on the shaft. It didn't make too much of a difference. How tight do you have your slippers?

I only checked my motor temp once this afternoon, but I think it was around 100-110 no fan. Super low.

@rcphreak, I'm using a Reedy Sonic M3 motor (ASC254) with no fan and zero timing.

I appreciate the help y'all!
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Old 08-21-2016, 11:05 PM   #2765
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ok. that's the regular stack height stator, so your gearing probably isn't too far off. if anything, you could go up a tooth.

as far as the timing, you've got to turn that up. i'm not familiar with that motor and where it likes timing, but i would think you could start with 25 degrees and check temps. ideally, you should run a fan. that'll lower your temps by 20 degrees and allow you to run more timing. when you start to turn up the timing, the motor will come alive.

i run a slipper eliminator. the equivalent for you would be to just lock down the slipper.
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Old 08-21-2016, 11:10 PM   #2766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Limeaway View Post
I originally had the lock nut flush with the top of the slipper shaft as instructed by the manual, but after tightening it I have about 2 threads visible on the shaft. It didn't make too much of a difference. How tight do you have your slippers?

I only checked my motor temp once this afternoon, but I think it was around 100-110 no fan. Super low.

@rcphreak, I'm using a Reedy Sonic M3 motor (ASC254) with no fan and zero timing.

I appreciate the help y'all!
I also run at Nor-cal with a Reedy M3. 31/69 works for me on the current layout at 38 degrees of timing, motor comes off about 135-145. I'd gear up a tooth on the pinion.

Slipper eliminator and MIP bi-metal drives will also do wonders for acceleration.
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Last edited by tsair; 08-21-2016 at 11:20 PM.
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Old 08-22-2016, 12:22 AM   #2767
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I assumed out of the box the motor was set at 0 timing, but as I was about to add timing I saw that it was already set at 20 deg. I'll probably go up to 25 or 30.

I'm headed back to the track tomorrow so I'll have another chance to toy around with my set up.
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Old 08-22-2016, 11:49 AM   #2768
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How do you guy run your B6 gear diff. on high grip carpet track; with 2 or 4 gears ?
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Old 08-22-2016, 02:54 PM   #2769
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We run med - high grip carpet, on my B6 all 4 diff gears, 3k oil. Ran 4 gears 2k oil on b5m same surface.
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Old 08-22-2016, 05:28 PM   #2770
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ANYONE TRIED ANY noN ae TOWER WITH ANY LUCK? caps lock.... I wanted to try the factoryrc towers, but he sold out before I could even place an order, lol. I know xfactory and schelle make towers.
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Old 08-22-2016, 05:50 PM   #2771
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ANYONE TRIED ANY noN ae TOWER WITH ANY LUCK? caps lock.... I wanted to try the factoryrc towers, but he sold out before I could even place an order, lol. I know xfactory and schelle make towers.

Still got to get the cars out to the track.




But if I had to guess which one to get it is the Diggity Designs ones. Quasi-Isotropic weave carbon fiber.
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Old 08-22-2016, 07:23 PM   #2772
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ANYONE TRIED ANY noN ae TOWER WITH ANY LUCK? caps lock.... I wanted to try the factoryrc towers, but he sold out before I could even place an order, lol. I know xfactory and schelle make towers.
I picked up the Schelle ones last weekend but won't get to the track until next week.
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Old 08-22-2016, 08:30 PM   #2773
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http://www.redrc.net/2016/08/t-works...lance-weights/





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Old 08-23-2016, 11:51 AM   #2774
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Just received my B6D and electronics. Getting into 2wd buggy for the fall/winter season. I've read through pages and pages of this forum and found some recommended upgrades on page 175. Those being titanium turnbuckles, ceramic bearings, and a Schelle slipper.

I've also seen, here & there, some other recommendations but would like to ask about some specific items. I will be running mod on an indoor, high traction, clay surface. http://track.speedrc.com/

Before I begin the build, I'd like to know if the following is worth the investment.

Steel Chassis Weights, 24g & 36g - ASC91747, ASC91748
Aluminum Rear Ballstud Mount - ASC91693
Brass Bulkhead - ASC91659
Brass C Mount 25g - ASC91690
Aluminum Bellcrank - ASC91668

Any advice is appreciated.
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Old 08-23-2016, 11:57 AM   #2775
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Originally Posted by DrVest View Post

Steel Chassis Weights, 24g & 36g - ASC91747, ASC91748 Not needed for clay imo, more for carpet
Aluminum Rear Ballstud Mount - ASC91693 Comes standard
Brass Bulkhead - ASC91659 Not needed, maybe aluminum though #91658
Brass C Mount 25g - ASC91690 intended for use with the B6, wont fit without dremeling on the D, the 12g brass, #91687 may be a good tuning option though. Car comes with aluminum C mount
Aluminum Bellcrank - ASC91668 Not needed imo

Any advice is appreciated.
I would grab the aluminum D mount #91688 as well to take full advantage of the rear arm inserts. Car comes with a full set of inserts.
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