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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 08-21-2016, 08:29 AM   #2746
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Originally Posted by Sean B. View Post
No. Basically the posts are wider, or farther apart than the holes in the strap. A friends car is like this also.
It is as if my battery strap is just a little bit narrower than the posts, too. But it only takes a little pressure/sideways flex to get it to go on....not too big of a deal. On the plus side, that side pressure once it is on would probably hold the strap even without the top nuts....though of course I still use the nuts.

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Originally Posted by ManiacMagoo View Post
I've broke a front and rear tower. I kind of wish for carpet more would follow Shumacher with the clear tower protectors included.
I put a front wing on, in part so that it will protect the shock tower a bit. It consists of a Pro-Line bracket on the front of the shock tower, but I've mounted up a JConcepts narrow wing to it (which is a bit taller), with 4mm of spacers under the wing so it sticks up just enough to hopefully keep the shock towers from being able to dig in and snap. I'm running on packed and sealed clay though, not carpet....so I think the car slides more when upside down than it would on carpet.
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Old 08-21-2016, 09:12 AM   #2747
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What's the most common front wing used the narrow or wide wing mounted on the front or rear of the shock tower?
Thanks,
Mike
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Old 08-21-2016, 01:01 PM   #2748
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where is everyone mounting their transponders?
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Old 08-21-2016, 01:03 PM   #2749
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Originally Posted by Cuebulon View Post
where is everyone mounting their transponders?
On the side of the servo. This is my car.
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Old 08-21-2016, 03:33 PM   #2750
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Originally Posted by Zephus View Post
It is as if my battery strap is just a little bit narrower than the posts, too. But it only takes a little pressure/sideways flex to get it to go on....not too big of a deal. On the plus side, that side pressure once it is on would probably hold the strap even without the top nuts....though of course I still use the nuts.
Is it possible your side guards are not flush with the chassis (leaning outwards)?
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Old 08-21-2016, 04:11 PM   #2751
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Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
On the side of the servo. This is my car.
So it doesnt mess with the lap counting?
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Old 08-21-2016, 04:16 PM   #2752
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Originally Posted by Cuebulon View Post
So it doesnt mess with the lap counting?
I've had no issues and a lot of ae team drivers mount it on the servo as well.
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Old 08-21-2016, 05:42 PM   #2753
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Originally Posted by goehm View Post
Is it possible your side guards are not flush with the chassis (leaning outwards)?
Sure, I guess it is possible they lean ever so slightly....even though I inspected all parts when they came out of the bags, and took care in assembling everything precisely. I chalk it up to tolerances, but I haven't had it back apart yet since the initial assembly. When I do, I'll inspect things. I am not talking about it being too far off....but when someone asks if the battery strap needs a bit of finessing to get on, I can confirm that experience. Nothing that is a big deal, but it is there.
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Old 08-21-2016, 06:01 PM   #2754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
I've had no issues and a lot of ae team drivers mount it on the servo as well.
I've got mine at the backside of my servo, most B6 guys at our track do as well. Nobody seems to have any issues
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Old 08-21-2016, 06:51 PM   #2755
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*double post*

Last edited by Limeaway; 08-21-2016 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 08-21-2016, 07:05 PM   #2756
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Took my b6d out to the track for the first time today and almost finished my day without breaking anything. Technically didn't break and actually just lost a rear inner hinge pin. Easy fix.

Anyway, being my first experience with 2wd buggys (17.5), I had no real issues learning how to drive the b6d with the box setup with the exception of jumps. I feel as if I just don't get enough acceleration on jumps and it keeps me from moving around the track quickly. I have a Reedy Sonic 17.5 with 72/31 gearing.

I was having the most trouble with the rhythm section at my track which most were taking as a "double double" and the final set of jumps before the straight (single double). Here's a video of the current layout:
https://youtu.be/n9g0LsxYXq4

Should I be able to take the jumps the way I described with a 17.5 setup, or am I really limited to taking single jumps? My first instinct was to tighten my slipper a bit, as I did have a little bit of slipping happening on full throttle. Other than that though I didn't know what else to tweak.
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Old 08-21-2016, 07:26 PM   #2757
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Quote:
Originally Posted by celt View Post
I don't think broken shock towers have anything to do with a weakness in the parts or materials.

It's a knife edge when it comes in contact with whatever surface - there is no give, it digs in hard and snaps rather than giving a bit or sliding like the plastic/composite parts.

Waiting for some enterprising aftermarket parts company to make the same shock towers in carbon, but route a nice rounded leading edge. I bet breakage would almost be non-existent overnight.

Or, as I have done, bend a small piece of spare lexan over that leading edge. I've tumbled plenty on carpet, and have not had a single issue. Others driving the same chassis have broken them when run without any protection.
All the good guys here do what we did with our pan cars back in the day. Sand the entire shock tower and seal with thick ca glue. This takes all the sharpness out and does not dig in as easy.
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Old 08-21-2016, 08:29 PM   #2758
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
On the side of the servo. This is my car.
I put mine right behind the servo.
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Old 08-21-2016, 08:49 PM   #2759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyperdive08 View Post
Just got the sway bar kits.

Anybody using them on turf/carpet? If so, thoughts??? Seems like the fronts are too thin to gain a noticeable gain.. I could be totally wrong, as haven't had ANY experience with them on a 2wd buggy.
Do you know if the B5M sway bar will work on the B6?
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Old 08-21-2016, 09:31 PM   #2760
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Limeaway View Post
Took my b6d out to the track for the first time today and almost finished my day without breaking anything. Technically didn't break and actually just lost a rear inner hinge pin. Easy fix.

Anyway, being my first experience with 2wd buggys (17.5), I had no real issues learning how to drive the b6d with the box setup with the exception of jumps. I feel as if I just don't get enough acceleration on jumps and it keeps me from moving around the track quickly. I have a Reedy Sonic 17.5 with 72/31 gearing.

I was having the most trouble with the rhythm section at my track which most were taking as a "double double" and the final set of jumps before the straight (single double). Here's a video of the current layout:
https://youtu.be/n9g0LsxYXq4

Should I be able to take the jumps the way I described with a 17.5 setup, or am I really limited to taking single jumps? My first instinct was to tighten my slipper a bit, as I did have a little bit of slipping happening on full throttle. Other than that though I didn't know what else to tweak.
I'm running a B6 at NorCal too, and had the same exact problems 1st time on that track. I was running 72/32 on the previous track, and dropped down to 72/30 on the new track. Definitely lock your slipper, or run a slipper eliminator. Now that I've learned the track, and dialed in suspension changes I'm gearing up. Currently at 72/31 and will be trying a 32 tooth pinion shortly. Also on the last jump before the straight stay to the inside, it's much wider on the outside line.

Bruce
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