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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 08-18-2016, 07:06 PM   #2701
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Nope, my understanding, he ran it that way at the Nats.
He won the Hot Rod Shootout with the inverted shock setup too.
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Old 08-18-2016, 08:01 PM   #2702
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i've got to imagine that whatever ty's deal is with HB, it's ending soon. it'll be awesome to see what he can do with a legit manufacturer. AE gonna open their wallets big time (hopefully).
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Old 08-18-2016, 08:33 PM   #2703
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[YOUTUBE]https://youtu.be/4aiKFdN4dZQ[YOUTUBE]

Those zany Tessman are quite cleaver


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Originally Posted by xyzracer View Post
The problem with mounting the shocks like this is that the pistons are sitting in the air gap at the top of the stroke so you have no actual damping at full droop
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Old 08-18-2016, 10:29 PM   #2704
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No kidding....sounds like they figured it out!
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Old 08-19-2016, 01:31 AM   #2705
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Re. Leaky gear diffs...I had same issue when we first started using them in B5m. Try blue hylomar, it's a full size auto gasket sealant. You only need a tiny/thin amount, I apply it using a watchmakers screwdriver. Can either apply it to both sides with gasket inbetween, or ditch the gasket. My 5 gear diff never leaked afterwards, and built my 6 the same way. Use a toothbrush and motor cleaner to remove any excess after you've screwed it down tight.
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Old 08-19-2016, 04:13 AM   #2706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavyD99 View Post
Can anyone running a B6 gear diff comment on its ability to hold oil? I had one in my SC10 and within a few race days all the black grease would have worked its way out. I had one in my B5 and it leaked. I bought the aluminum cap and it was better, but still not great.
Have a gear diff in my B6 carpet car. Not an issue so far, none, perfectly dry. Built with 5K as I recall.
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Old 08-19-2016, 07:24 AM   #2707
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[YOUTUBE]https://youtu.be/4aiKFdN4dZQ[YOUTUBE]

Those zany Tessman are quite cleaver
have had bladders in my parts bag for awhile. just never got the motivation to go forward with it!
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Old 08-19-2016, 07:40 AM   #2708
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Strange people have played around with running the shocks upside down since the late 80's. It's nothing new. It does change a few things but for the most part the added unsprung weight isn't worth it.
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Old 08-19-2016, 07:58 AM   #2709
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That car shares very little with a D216 out of the box. I'll be concerned when Rivkin or Cav do it.
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Old 08-19-2016, 09:38 AM   #2710
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Quote:
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have had bladders in my parts bag for awhile. just never got the motivation to go forward with it!
I don't know about the upside down shocks idea, but I really like the way they build their shocks. It looks like they are completely dead and removing the bleeder will allow the pressure somewhere to when the shaft is compressed or weather changes. Wouldn't this lead to no air being sucked into the shock which means less maintenance?

When I first saw that vid, I looked for a part number for bladders but apparently AE doesn't make them? I was going to get some HB or TLR bladders to see if the would fit but totally forget about it.
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Old 08-19-2016, 09:54 AM   #2711
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK View Post
i've got to imagine that whatever ty's deal is with HB, it's ending soon. it'll be awesome to see what he can do with a legit manufacturer. AE gonna open their wallets big time (hopefully).
Tessman isn't there for the 2wd program, he's there for one of the best 8th scale teams and the killer d413
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Old 08-19-2016, 10:41 AM   #2712
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavyD99 View Post
Can anyone running a B6 gear diff comment on its ability to hold oil? I had one in my SC10 and within a few race days all the black grease would have worked its way out. I had one in my B5 and it leaked. I bought the aluminum cap and it was better, but still not great.
Mine has been pretty good. One thing that helps is double up the paper gasket....also put a thin layer of black grease on the gasket and the diff. Once you have it assembled take more black grease and coat the area where the screws are to help seal it up on the outside....works very good !!
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Old 08-19-2016, 11:41 AM   #2713
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The front and rear sway bars are available now on ae's website. Just ordered both.
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Old 08-19-2016, 04:08 PM   #2714
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For anyone late to the party (like me) Tower has their eCash deal going again.
Started yesterday and ends the 24th

Update: Ideally you should join the SuperSavers Club through Tower a couple days before you buy your stuff and usually they sent you slightly better coupon codes to use toward your purchase. So you would buy a membership. Wait for eCash promo date. Place your order with you new member discount codes then get the eCash promo to use on upgrades in a few weeks.

http://www.towerhobbies.com/tow_ecash.html

http://www.towerhobbies.com/coupon_codes.html



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Last edited by onefast8; 08-22-2016 at 12:51 AM.
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Old 08-19-2016, 07:38 PM   #2715
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Damn, I just put a 450$ order in on with towerhobbies.com on the 16th...
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