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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Last edit by: RCBuddha
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 05-03-2016, 03:04 PM   #256
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Ok. Cool. The manual will help answered a lot of questions once it is online
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Old 05-03-2016, 05:12 PM   #257
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getting the shocks straight B5 fronts carry over, any 5 series vehicle rears carry over to B6 Rear?
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Last edited by Cridd; 05-03-2016 at 10:06 PM.
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Old 05-03-2016, 05:26 PM   #258
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the carpet b6 would run a super high grip clay okay or would it be better to go with the 6d?
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Old 05-03-2016, 05:46 PM   #259
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I'm more confused than ever on which to go with for high grip clay (slicks). I may cancel my pre-order and wait for this thing to play out.
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Old 05-03-2016, 06:00 PM   #260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK View Post
I'm more confused than ever on which to go with for high grip clay (slicks). I may cancel my pre-order and wait for this thing to play out.
It's like the B5m, it was meant for the Higher grip tracks compared to the B5R, but it can be made to run on dusty bumpy loose tracks like we have here in Australia.

I think the B6 with the gull wing arms allow you to lower ride heights for the higher grip tracks (correct me if I'm wrong)
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Old 05-03-2016, 06:07 PM   #261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK View Post
I'm more confused than ever on which to go with for high grip clay (slicks). I may cancel my pre-order and wait for this thing to play out.
In the B6 Facebook group, Kody said for OCRC (med-high grip) he would run the B6D and sometimes the B6. I think it would be wise to get the B6D then buy the components to make it the B6. Complete laydown transmission with its waterfall, gullwing front arms and tower. If conditions call for the high grip, then swap it out. Honestly the only dirt tracks I know that have carpet/turf grip levels are SRS in Arizona and Beachline RC in Florida.
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Old 05-03-2016, 06:40 PM   #262
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Anyone understand how the battery strap works? Seems almost redundant to have the thumbscrews and new collars below the strap, yet have the two button head screws at the back.
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Old 05-03-2016, 06:44 PM   #263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ANDRXW View Post
Anyone understand how the battery strap works? Seems almost redundant to have the thumbscrews and new collars below the strap, yet have the two button head screws at the back.
I would think the two screws on the strap to adjust for the slight differences in battery dimensions. Needs to be a snug fit. The collars are to adjust for the height of lipos so when you tighten down it clamps and doesn't bend the strap. Actually a elegant system. No need for foam.
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Old 05-03-2016, 06:51 PM   #264
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Default Pic of strap system by Kody

https://www.facebook.com/permalink.p...bstory_index=0
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Old 05-03-2016, 06:58 PM   #265
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Thanks, that definitely helps clear up some confusion. The button heads seem to be mounted to a 'retainer' underneath the strap that keep the battery from sliding backwards.

From the pictures, I was under the assumption the screws would thread through the strap and into solid posts mounted to the chassis; requiring you to remove thumbscrews AND the two button heads.
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Old 05-03-2016, 07:39 PM   #266
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I think people are getting confused about the difference between high grip dirt/clay and astroturf or carpet. The way the cars are set up for the two conditions are drastically different. Just because they call it high grip clay doesn't mean it has as much traction as carpet. I don't understand why everyone asks Kody what to run and then argue the point after.
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Old 05-03-2016, 07:47 PM   #267
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Because that is the way people are. They know it all and want him to confirm it.LOL!
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Old 05-03-2016, 07:56 PM   #268
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I updated the first page to reflect some of the questions and answers from the facebook thread.

Some highlights:

Rear shock bodies on the B6/b6d are smaller than the B5/b5m.
turnbuckles are nickle plated spring steel
Shock towers are lower in the rear, thus the smaller shock bodies
B5 series diffs will fit in B6 gear cases with shimming
shocks use V2 shafts
No RTR B5/B5
No conversion kit for B6 to B6D...
B6/B6D chassis are the same and eliminate the front nose piece for strength
Gear diff and ball diff are interchangeable
wheels are the same offset as the b5 series
4 gear will be an option

Last edited by RCBuddha; 05-03-2016 at 08:41 PM.
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Old 05-03-2016, 09:37 PM   #269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmuck69 View Post
In the B6 Facebook group, Kody said for OCRC (med-high grip) he would run the B6D and sometimes the B6. I think it would be wise to get the B6D then buy the components to make it the B6. Complete laydown transmission with its waterfall, gullwing front arms and tower. If conditions call for the high grip, then swap it out. Honestly the only dirt tracks I know that have carpet/turf grip levels are SRS in Arizona and Beachline RC in Florida.
SRS is only super high grip when it's taken care of, which it hasn't really been since cactus. I wouldn't be surprised if cactus is held somewhere else next year.
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Old 05-03-2016, 10:04 PM   #270
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Ordered the B6. 702 is my home track and with carpet I can not wait. Buggies or anything on carpet is all about the low cg. I heard Associated have been putting down time on the track on Mondays when the track is closed to test and practice on the Carpet.
But even Tracks of Las Vegas It is sugar or what ever they put on for the worlds still mixed in the dirt. High bite. Now I don't have to buy one of the X-rays or Schumacher buggies.
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