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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 08-17-2016, 09:10 AM   #2656
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I love the kashimas.

I know more than one person who doesn't like them

I also like the gold shafts over the chrome.
Kashimas w/ chrome shafts, standard/silver shock body with the Ti shafts.

Mixing the Kashimas w/ the color of the Ti shafts looks terrible.
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Old 08-17-2016, 09:13 AM   #2657
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Kashimas w/ chrome shafts, standard/silver shock body with the Ti shafts.

Mixing the Kashimas w/ the color of the Ti shafts looks terrible.
I wasn't aware there was a proper color combination.
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Old 08-17-2016, 09:45 AM   #2658
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I wasn't aware there was a proper color combination.
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Old 08-17-2016, 11:15 AM   #2659
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What we need now is a black DLC shock shaft
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Old 08-17-2016, 12:01 PM   #2660
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I wasn't aware there was a proper color combination.
I shouldn't have to explain chassis fashion to SoCal guys
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Old 08-17-2016, 12:59 PM   #2661
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I shouldn't have to explain chassis fashion to SoCal guys
Chassis fashion...cute
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Old 08-17-2016, 01:03 PM   #2662
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Where can I get ceramic bearings for my B6 transmission only?
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Old 08-17-2016, 01:04 PM   #2663
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Schelle.
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Old 08-17-2016, 01:17 PM   #2664
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Old 08-17-2016, 01:20 PM   #2665
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The chrome shafts aren't worth the money. They show wear after a day of racing. Sure, at first they're a little smoother but developed wear super quick in my experience. They now sit in my box as backups incase I bend something.
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Old 08-17-2016, 01:52 PM   #2666
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Any advantage to using the FT aluminum bell cranks and steering rack?
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Old 08-17-2016, 02:10 PM   #2667
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Quote:
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Where can I get ceramic bearings for my B6 transmission only?
the avid aura bearings are really good. they come as a transmission set.
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Old 08-17-2016, 02:32 PM   #2668
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Any advantage to using the FT aluminum bell cranks and steering rack?
Do a search, please. We covered it a few pages back
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Old 08-17-2016, 02:39 PM   #2669
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Originally Posted by Orion_2kTC View Post
Any advantage to using the FT aluminum bell cranks and steering rack?
Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Old 08-17-2016, 02:41 PM   #2670
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Any advantage to using the FT aluminum bell cranks and steering rack?

I ran them on mine and it seems to make the steering more rigid, where before on corners the inside wheel would always seem to chatter.

The only thing I didn't like was the two screws that come up from the bottom and hold the cross brace on don't really lock and if you go too tight they bind the steering. Yes.. I understand loctite is required, but I still didn't trust it for a day at the track. I ended up running slightly longer screws and using thin lock nuts to jam the screws after the were adjusted to where they wouldn't bind.

I used an aluminum horn as well because the FT bell cranks plowed into the kit plastic horn.
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