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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 08-12-2016, 08:31 PM   #2536
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not possible. Socket said it is a must.....
LOL
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Old 08-12-2016, 09:07 PM   #2537
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LMAO I'm sorry, but you're suggesting that LiveRC build out a Satellite based private WAN to carry customer's video traffic? I can assure you that will never ever ever happen. Thanks for the laugh tho!
Seriously, don't be stupid. No, you join a service that already exists. Homeowners do it, RV owners do it. These people are all not launching satellites.

Imagine all those DirectTV and Dish owners; I wonder how do they all launch their own personal satellite?

Anyway, it's a latent connection but it doesn't really matter. You just upload it to a distribution server, with appropriate bandwidth, which is where the content viewing is handled.
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Old 08-12-2016, 09:10 PM   #2538
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Thanks for the input. Not to exclude anyone else from answering, but I thought OCRC guys might already know something I don't... I figured the at least one answer would be to try the weights, but since they are so hard to find...
Maybe they're building all the molds to pour molten steel into so they have weights to use. Or .. wait .. can you buy them?
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Old 08-12-2016, 09:51 PM   #2539
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I am only using the diff shims for the B6. no hub spacers use at all. no issues
i'm currently using just the bigger shim on the outdrive (and the shim inside the diff case). spacing in the outdrive/puck area looks good. problem i'm having is that i can barely snug the wheel nuts. if i tighten down the wheel nuts like i normally would there is tremendous bind in the drivetrain.
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Old 08-12-2016, 10:03 PM   #2540
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huh? I am not using any shims on the axle. just the ones inside the gear box
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Old 08-12-2016, 10:12 PM   #2541
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huh? I am not using any shims on the axle. just the ones inside the gear box
good lord...

MIP sells a shim kit for the B5 puck system so it can be used with the B6. apparently people have found that without any shimming, the pucks don't fully seat into the outdrives if you have a lot of plunge, which will lead to your pucks getting chewed up by the outdrives (i dunno maybe the B6 driveshafts are longer). i never said you were using shims. i said i was using one of the two that MIP recommends (other than the mandatory shims inside the gear box).

http://miponline.com/store/mip16085.html

i might just try out that famous MIP customer service. i'm pretty pissed that the shims they sold me don't fit. did they not even try it?
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Old 08-12-2016, 10:16 PM   #2542
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good lord...

MIP sells a shim kit for the B5 puck system so it can be used with the B6. apparently people have found that without any shimming, the pucks don't fully seat into the outdrives if you have a lot of plunge, which will lead to your pucks getting chewed up by the outdrives (i dunno maybe the B6 driveshafts are longer). i never said you were using shims. i said i was using one of the two that MIP recommends (other than the mandatory shims inside the gear box).

http://miponline.com/store/mip16085.html

i might just try out that famous MIP customer service. i'm pretty pissed that the shims they sold me don't fit. did they not even try it?
I tried the axle shims from AE, but it was getting bind also. so I took them out. I am using the plastic pucks without issue. the roller I think are narrower and that causes a need for the axle shims.

also, many guys are using the "b5m" width in the rear. this narrows the rear and helps out. the b6 bones are the same as the b5m kit bones. the puck bones are just shorter than the b5m/b6 bones
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Old 08-12-2016, 10:20 PM   #2543
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
I tried the axle shims from AE, but it was getting bind also. so I took them out. I am using the plastic pucks without issue. the roller I think are narrower and that causes a need for the axle shims.

also, many guys are using the "b5m" width in the rear. this narrows the rear and helps out. the b6 bones are the same as the b5m kit bones. the puck bones are just shorter than the b5m/b6 bones
ok thanks. i took my time building the kit today and my back is shot. i'll take the shims out tomorrow and give it a whirl.
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Old 08-13-2016, 05:32 AM   #2544
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not possible. Socket said it is a must.....
Are they on high bite?
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Old 08-13-2016, 05:35 AM   #2545
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i'm currently using just the bigger shim on the outdrive (and the shim inside the diff case). spacing in the outdrive/puck area looks good. problem i'm having is that i can barely snug the wheel nuts. if i tighten down the wheel nuts like i normally would there is tremendous bind in the drivetrain.
Because you're not using the internal shim.

You need this:

https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/c...Supplement.pdf

#91605 also has an internal shim, this prevents the axle from binding when you tighten the wheel nut.

It is recommended that you use
#91605 CVA Axle Shims when using
#91608 FT Aluminum Arm Mount.
You must use both shims when installing
the #91605 CVA Axle Shim Kit.


Remember, the B6 rear arm mount, when "center/center" in the C and D is at the +4 setting that the B5M had. The dog bones and axles didn't change from the HD B5M stuff. Because of this, you'll need these shims when running center/center on the inserts. This is VERY mandatory if you run B5M rear shocks with the stock B6 tower, or run any combination of "out/out" on the C and D.

I can not see a situation where running these shims, even when the inserts are both "in/in" is a bad thing. I've always ran them since my day 1 build, and haven't had any issues.


Edit: The wiki has this sweet picture:

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Last edited by Socket; 08-13-2016 at 05:52 AM.
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Old 08-13-2016, 05:41 AM   #2546
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if you dont run 91605 you will also go through bearings due to side load that these bearings are not designed for
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Old 08-13-2016, 05:50 AM   #2547
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
I tried the axle shims from AE, but it was getting bind also. so I took them out. I am using the plastic pucks without issue. the roller I think are narrower and that causes a need for the axle shims.

also, many guys are using the "b5m" width in the rear. this narrows the rear and helps out. the b6 bones are the same as the b5m kit bones. the puck bones are just shorter than the b5m/b6 bones

No. It doesn't "help" anything, it's a geometry change that affects how the car handles, why not tell us what affect it has? Because you haven't tried it...shocker. You should not be changing the rear pivot width because you can't figure out how to use the shims I elaborated on above.

Narrow pivots for the most part are for lower bite applications. The wide (+4 and +6) are optimal in high bite situations. You need to use the corresponding hex so the track width stays the same.

Why does the B6 have this...Look at nationals, these guys are in love with the laydown and see it as the next big thing. However, when you move weight forward like that with a 3 gear laydown, you give up some rear bite. The optional narrow pivot gives another option for being able to get that rear bite back again, as well as shocks on the rear. The wide pivot is VERY good on carpet when I ran it back to back against the narrow. It allowed more rotation and quicker response.
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Old 08-13-2016, 06:51 AM   #2548
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No. It doesn't "help" anything, it's a geometry change that affects how the car handles, why not tell us what affect it has? Because you haven't tried it...shocker. You should not be changing the rear pivot width because you can't figure out how to use the shims I elaborated on above.

Narrow pivots for the most part are for lower bite applications. The wide (+4 and +6) are optimal in high bite situations. You need to use the corresponding hex so the track width stays the same.

Why does the B6 have this...Look at nationals, these guys are in love with the laydown and see it as the next big thing. However, when you move weight forward like that with a 3 gear laydown, you give up some rear bite. The optional narrow pivot gives another option for being able to get that rear bite back again, as well as shocks on the rear. The wide pivot is VERY good on carpet when I ran it back to back against the narrow. It allowed more rotation and quicker response.
go fix the incorrect information provided here. Curious to see if you can figure it out.
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Old 08-13-2016, 07:48 AM   #2549
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Seriously, don't be stupid. No, you join a service that already exists. Homeowners do it, RV owners do it. These people are all not launching satellites.

Imagine all those DirectTV and Dish owners; I wonder how do they all launch their own personal satellite?

Anyway, it's a latent connection but it doesn't really matter. You just upload it to a distribution server, with appropriate bandwidth, which is where the content viewing is handled.
Since you don't have a clue what you're talking about I'll just let it go. Non-satellite communication networks are superior for this service, period. So yes, it will rely on the customer's connection to the Internet.
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Old 08-13-2016, 08:03 AM   #2550
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go fix the incorrect information provided here. Curious to see if you can figure it out.
Yup
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