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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 08-11-2016, 10:05 PM   #2506
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Trying to get my b6d order together. Is the stock steering rack pretty jenky, necessitating the aluminum one or is it fairly decent? Seems like its unanimously replaced on most cars I see.
I would not say it is required. I am sure the alum steering with have a more direct feel on high grip. Not sure srs is high grip these days. who knows what HA will be. I am skipping it for now on my car. Might add it later. imo not required. I do have an alum horn on the car...just because I bought the exotek for my b5m just before the b6 came out..
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Old 08-12-2016, 05:47 AM   #2507
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Heard at nationals they are removing the waterfall and running the battery further back towards the motor. Anyone tried this?
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Originally Posted by DG Designs View Post
Seems like that would allow to much chassis flex


They're still running a link between the trans and battery strap.

They've been testing this for a month or two.
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Old 08-12-2016, 05:48 AM   #2508
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I would not say it is required. I am sure the alum steering with have a more direct feel on high grip. Not sure srs is high grip these days. who knows what HA will be. I am skipping it for now on my car. Might add it later. imo not required. I do have an alum horn on the car...just because I bought the exotek for my b5m just before the b6 came out..
Do you have the alloy rack, or are you just internet racing and guessing?

I never felt the need for the alloy rack on the B5M, I owned two, and installed them, zero difference. Went back to plastic to save weight.

Alloy rack on the B6 was money, gave the car more turn in, and got rid of the slop the plastic rack had.
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Old 08-12-2016, 05:55 AM   #2509
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Do you have the alloy rack, or are you just internet racing and guessing?

I never felt the need for the alloy rack on the B5M, I owned two, and installed them, zero difference.

Alloy rack on the B6 was money, gave the car more turn in, and got rid of the slop the plastic rack had.
I dont have any slop in my rack. The steering/rack has was less flex than the b5m did. I said the alum steering would feel more connected on high grip. Not everyone here is a carpet racer like you. It is not a required upgrade. Just because you feel the need to upgrade everything on the car, and try for a 500g race car, does not mean everyone does.
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Old 08-12-2016, 05:58 AM   #2510
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I dont have any slop in my rack. The steering/rack has was less flex than the b5m did. I said the alum steering would feel more connected on high grip. Not everyone here is a carpet racer like you. It is not a required upgrade. Just because you feel the need to upgrade everything on the car, and try for a 500g race car, does not mean everyone does.
  1. I've raced on dirt more than carpet, but yes, I've been to the carpet track twice, and a third time this weekend. You'll be a carpet racer too in about 3 weeks.
  2. If I wanted a 500g car, alloy steering is the last thing I'd do, it adds weight, not reduces it.
  3. Nothing is required. I explained the effects because I've tried it, no guessing or conjecture.
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Old 08-12-2016, 06:21 AM   #2511
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  1. I've raced on dirt more than carpet, but yes, I've been to the carpet track twice, and a third time this weekend. You'll be a carpet racer too in about 3 weeks.
  2. If I wanted a 500g car, alloy steering is the last thing I'd do, it adds weight, not reduces it.
  3. Nothing is required. I explained the effects because I've tried it, no guessing or conjecture.
I know exactly what an alum steering does. Had it on every car since the rc10.
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Old 08-12-2016, 06:38 AM   #2512
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Just a heads up to everyone installing the laydown transmission. I was swapping transmissions this morning to go from the one with a ball diff over to a gear diff for my carpet setup. After I finished up the install I gave the top shaft a spin just out of habit and realized the transmission was bound right.

I found this odd because I spun the top shaft right before I bolted in my gear diff transmission and it spun free. To trouble shoot I removed the transmission and it was still locked up. Upon opening it up I discovered my mistake which caused the issue.

I accidentally grabbed one of the m3x12 screws which attach the chassis brace to the chassis instead of the correct m3x10 screw to attach the transmission to the chassis.

The extra 2mm screw length was enough to poke through into the transmission and lodge the small bit of plastic from the transmission case into the diff gear.

Just wanted to through this out there so no one repeats my mistake.

Hopefully my photo attachment works to further explain...
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Old 08-12-2016, 06:59 AM   #2513
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Originally Posted by onefast8 View Post
Trying to get my b6d order together. Is the stock steering rack pretty jenky, necessitating the aluminum one or is it fairly decent? Seems like its unanimously replaced on most cars I see.
I find the kit parts pretty solid, less deflection in the plastic than on the B5 series. I have the alu installed, run on carpet and dirt and don't really feel a marginal technical difference one way or the other. The alu is nice, looks cool. Necessary? Not so sure about that.

What I'm waiting for is the correct length shoulder screw package from AVID:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/avid-rc...vd1059/p468957

Most of the slop we feel is either bearings or ballcups. The shoulder screws have a larger "unturned" diameter that fits tighter on the inner 3mm bearing race. There is no real weaknesses in the plastic system that I've found. Perhaps it should be considered a weight tuning option more than anything.
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Old 08-12-2016, 07:47 AM   #2514
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Originally Posted by skrichter View Post
Interesting. From the vids I saw, I can see why. Looks like they are all struggling a bit for grip. But....what do they expect, when they run a laydown car...

but but...all the cool kids are doing it.
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Old 08-12-2016, 09:04 AM   #2515
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If it's to reduce slop I don't think I see the need. As mentioned above most of the slop is in the ball cups I remember building thinking this was the most slop free starring I have ever built on any car, until I added the camber links. Definitely don't want the weight either unless I go back to a standup.
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Old 08-12-2016, 09:45 AM   #2516
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
  1. I've raced on dirt more than carpet, but yes, I've been to the carpet track twice, and a third time this weekend. You'll be a carpet racer too in about 3 weeks.
  2. If I wanted a 500g car, alloy steering is the last thing I'd do, it adds weight, not reduces it.
  3. Nothing is required. I explained the effects because I've tried it, no guessing or conjecture.

Don't you know ,,, WILDCHERRY Jr. Knows everything!!!!
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Old 08-12-2016, 09:46 AM   #2517
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I'm not sure if this is an enviable position or not... During the argument about aluminum steering here, I'm reading about everyone trying to get less weight on the front, but it seems like I can't get enough weight to get the necessary steering. I'm running the Hartson 7/13 setup at OCRC with Microns / Electrons / Dirt Webs and CANNOT find the necessary steering. Plenty of rear traction. Any *specific* tips from OCRC racers? (Please no general stuff like 'less droop dude') The car is at about 1540g right now, battery all the way forward. Thinking about adding the brass bulkhead, but honestly in theory it seems overkill... Any thoughts?
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Old 08-12-2016, 10:07 AM   #2518
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I'm not sure if this is an enviable position or not... During the argument about aluminum steering here, I'm reading about everyone trying to get less weight on the front, but it seems like I can't get enough weight to get the necessary steering. I'm running the Hartson 7/13 setup at OCRC with Microns / Electrons / Dirt Webs and CANNOT find the necessary steering. Plenty of rear traction. Any *specific* tips from OCRC racers? (Please no general stuff like 'less droop dude') The car is at about 1540g right now, battery all the way forward. Thinking about adding the brass bulkhead, but honestly in theory it seems overkill... Any thoughts?
Man I know you asked for an OCRC racer, and I'm not one.

But before I went 30g on the front (brass bulkhead...) I'd sure try the Alloy (9g) or the steel (escapes me the weight) front insert.

Is this in mod or 17.5?
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Old 08-12-2016, 10:48 AM   #2519
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Originally Posted by stevewolfie159 View Post
I'm not sure if this is an enviable position or not... During the argument about aluminum steering here, I'm reading about everyone trying to get less weight on the front, but it seems like I can't get enough weight to get the necessary steering. I'm running the Hartson 7/13 setup at OCRC with Microns / Electrons / Dirt Webs and CANNOT find the necessary steering. Plenty of rear traction. Any *specific* tips from OCRC racers? (Please no general stuff like 'less droop dude') The car is at about 1540g right now, battery all the way forward. Thinking about adding the brass bulkhead, but honestly in theory it seems overkill... Any thoughts?
You're running this exactly:

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ..._OCRC20160713/

And you don't have enough steering?
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Old 08-12-2016, 11:55 AM   #2520
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is there not a broadcast for the roar race?
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