649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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08-09-2016, 11:51 AM
#2431
Had the same problem. Changing to metal adds weight in that area. Weight that I don't need. The big washer or countersunk washer is a good idea. The plastics are there as designed to fail in crashes. I just wish AE sells those small plastic parts only rather than the whole assembly.
08-09-2016, 11:52 AM
#2432
The best method to explode a diff is to run a slipper eliminator and be a new racer.
08-09-2016, 01:23 PM
#2436
not new racer but i understand what you're saying.
08-09-2016, 01:37 PM
#2438
the point is, they bundle that stuff to keep the overall costs down. If they separated it, the overall cost would go up. An aluminum insert to replace the plastic insert might be cool. I have yet to break the plastic one and only ever broke 2 on the b5m over 3 years of racing. IMO, the washer, that comes in the kit, goes along way to keeping the part from failing.
08-09-2016, 03:06 PM
#2439
AMain says the kits are arriving this Thursday moving date up from the 17th.
Tower just got them in. Both kits In Stock Limited Quantities, hopefully just the first skid of many received this week.
I got to buy the D still and the Tower e-cash promo will soon line up next week likely with that. Hopefully it stays in stock.
Tower just got them in. Both kits In Stock Limited Quantities, hopefully just the first skid of many received this week.
I got to buy the D still and the Tower e-cash promo will soon line up next week likely with that. Hopefully it stays in stock.
08-09-2016, 05:27 PM
#2440
Here is a few laps at SRS with my B6D and laydown. I was running un-sauced proline 2.2 clay slicks. Pucks, Avid Slipper and the laydown are pretty much the only upgrades.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_qiunFgWeU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_qiunFgWeU
08-09-2016, 06:56 PM
#2441
Had the same problem. Changing to metal adds weight in that area. Weight that I don't need. The big washer or countersunk washer is a good idea. The plastics are there as designed to fail in crashes. I just wish AE sells those small plastic parts only rather than the whole assembly.
08-09-2016, 07:34 PM
#2442
Tech Rookie
Had the same problem. Changing to metal adds weight in that area. Weight that I don't need. The big washer or countersunk washer is a good idea. The plastics are there as designed to fail in crashes. I just wish AE sells those small plastic parts only rather than the whole assembly.
Thanks.
08-09-2016, 07:55 PM
#2445
Tech Addict
iTrader: (15)
Aluminum hubs are a very popular upgrade and often a weak point on RC vehicles. One of few parts that are commonly switched from plastic to aluminum. I made the suggestion base on durability since he was having an issue with the hubs, same as I did. Fixing one weak point makes it more difficult to break your car, even if it is a bigger or more expensive part that may be the next weak link. I'd rather finish races than have more hypothetical bite. Just my opinion.