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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 08-09-2016, 11:51 AM   #2431
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Had the same problem. Changing to metal adds weight in that area. Weight that I don't need. The big washer or countersunk washer is a good idea. The plastics are there as designed to fail in crashes. I just wish AE sells those small plastic parts only rather than the whole assembly.
It also takes away bite.
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Old 08-09-2016, 11:52 AM   #2432
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Cool ive raced borrowed rear motors before just decided to jump into the mm craze head first. Gonna start with theay down transmission. Ill go from there with the nova slipper and eliminator
The best method to explode a diff is to run a slipper eliminator and be a new racer.
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Old 08-09-2016, 01:02 PM   #2433
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Maybe Associated will sell the small plastic hub pieces in time?
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Old 08-09-2016, 01:05 PM   #2434
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Originally Posted by Schuie Driver View Post
Maybe Associated will sell the small plastic hub pieces in time?
would you pay $5 just for the inserts?
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Old 08-09-2016, 01:15 PM   #2435
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would you pay $5 just for the inserts?
Maybe if they could include more than 2 in a package
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Old 08-09-2016, 01:23 PM   #2436
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
The best method to explode a diff is to run a slipper eliminator and be a new racer.
Sounds about right not new racer but i understand what you're saying.
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Old 08-09-2016, 01:31 PM   #2437
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Originally Posted by Schuie Driver View Post
Maybe if they could include more than 2 in a package
Agreed.
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Old 08-09-2016, 01:37 PM   #2438
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Maybe if they could include more than 2 in a package
the point is, they bundle that stuff to keep the overall costs down. If they separated it, the overall cost would go up. An aluminum insert to replace the plastic insert might be cool. I have yet to break the plastic one and only ever broke 2 on the b5m over 3 years of racing. IMO, the washer, that comes in the kit, goes along way to keeping the part from failing.
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Old 08-09-2016, 03:06 PM   #2439
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AMain says the kits are arriving this Thursday moving date up from the 17th.


Tower just got them in. Both kits In Stock Limited Quantities, hopefully just the first skid of many received this week.


I got to buy the D still and the Tower e-cash promo will soon line up next week likely with that. Hopefully it stays in stock.
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Old 08-09-2016, 05:27 PM   #2440
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Here is a few laps at SRS with my B6D and laydown. I was running un-sauced proline 2.2 clay slicks. Pucks, Avid Slipper and the laydown are pretty much the only upgrades.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_qiunFgWeU
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Old 08-09-2016, 06:56 PM   #2441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
Had the same problem. Changing to metal adds weight in that area. Weight that I don't need. The big washer or countersunk washer is a good idea. The plastics are there as designed to fail in crashes. I just wish AE sells those small plastic parts only rather than the whole assembly.
Seems like a perfect case for a carbon fiber insert. If it was designed to fail in crashes, then it seems like they made it a little bit too weak..
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Old 08-09-2016, 07:34 PM   #2442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
Had the same problem. Changing to metal adds weight in that area. Weight that I don't need. The big washer or countersunk washer is a good idea. The plastics are there as designed to fail in crashes. I just wish AE sells those small plastic parts only rather than the whole assembly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
It also takes away bite.
Which "it" in this paragraph that you quoted takes away bite?

Thanks.
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Old 08-09-2016, 07:36 PM   #2443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goehm View Post
Seems like a perfect case for a carbon fiber insert. If it was designed to fail in crashes, then it seems like they made it a little bit too weak..
that might work.
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Old 08-09-2016, 07:39 PM   #2444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pavé View Post
Which "it" in this paragraph that you quoted takes away bite?

Thanks.
post #2424 . I think changing a plastic part every time it fails into metal is not necessarily a good thing. It will open another problem.
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Old 08-09-2016, 07:55 PM   #2445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
post #2424 . I think changing a plastic part every time it fails into metal is not necessarily a good thing. It will open another problem.
Aluminum hubs are a very popular upgrade and often a weak point on RC vehicles. One of few parts that are commonly switched from plastic to aluminum. I made the suggestion base on durability since he was having an issue with the hubs, same as I did. Fixing one weak point makes it more difficult to break your car, even if it is a bigger or more expensive part that may be the next weak link. I'd rather finish races than have more hypothetical bite. Just my opinion.
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