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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 08-09-2016, 06:52 AM   #2416
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Another question regarding my new b6d build. Is the schelle slipper lockout worth it from the start?
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Old 08-09-2016, 06:53 AM   #2417
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Another question regarding my new b6d build. Is the schelle slipper lockout worth it from the start?
If your running stock then def yes, it also depends on your track conditions.
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Old 08-09-2016, 06:55 AM   #2418
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If your running stock then def yes, it also depends on your track conditions.
May sound silly but will i need the schelle slipper kit for that? I will be running stock yes but where i run they have pro stock and novice-ish stock which is where i will be running.
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Old 08-09-2016, 06:56 AM   #2419
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Ive been running 8th scale for a year and have been pretty competitive so just gonna do stock for now until i get the feel of the 10th scale. I plan on trying to do mod later on
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Old 08-09-2016, 06:58 AM   #2420
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Get aluminum hubs. I broke those constantly on my b5m.

I wonder about getting another pair of the aluminum threaded plates below and just drilling out each threaded hole for one side:


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Old 08-09-2016, 08:26 AM   #2421
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Get aluminum hubs. I broke those constantly on my b5m.
Its not the hub Im having issues with, its that weak little plastic insert. I want to buy spares but the only way you can get it is if you buy the whole hub, I dont want to pay 9$ for just that little piece
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Old 08-09-2016, 08:31 AM   #2422
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Originally Posted by Cuebulon View Post
Another question regarding my new b6d build. Is the schelle slipper lockout worth it from the start?
If you are just getting into 1/10 I would just run it as is to start. It is not needed from the start. The Schelle Nova slipper is a great upgrade though and that way you can utilize the lockout at a later date. The lockouts are only really beneficial on med-high bite tracks. If it is loose at all it will do more harm than good.
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Old 08-09-2016, 08:35 AM   #2423
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Originally Posted by Erolyobruh View Post
Its not the hub Im having issues with, its that weak little plastic insert. I want to buy spares but the only way you can get it is if you buy the whole hub, I dont want to pay 9$ for just that little piece

The simplest solution is to use some large faced washers that cover the top and bottom of the plate so the pressure is applied to the hub piece. I know of no one making the insert itself in any other material but it would be nice if possible.

Keep in mind this is only going to go so far. If you're landing on the edge of the wheel in a high speed tumble something must give. Chances are anything else would be more expensive.
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Old 08-09-2016, 09:07 AM   #2424
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The best solution is to pay $50 to schelle for some sweet aluminum hubs. Preordered mine, now just impatiently waiting.
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Old 08-09-2016, 10:16 AM   #2425
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my 9 year old, has a tendency to slide the rear into wall on sweeper, especially hard on the rear hub insert..

tried adding a second alum insert but didn't like how far it pushed out of hub, not even half of the alum piece set into the recess of the hub.


My solution
AE part # 89229
countersunk washer has proven to hold up better , until alum hubs arrive.


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Old 08-09-2016, 11:25 AM   #2426
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The best solution is to pay $50 to schelle for some sweet aluminum hubs. Preordered mine, now just impatiently waiting.
Had the same problem. Changing to metal adds weight in that area. Weight that I don't need. The big washer or countersunk washer is a good idea. The plastics are there as designed to fail in crashes. I just wish AE sells those small plastic parts only rather than the whole assembly.
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Old 08-09-2016, 11:32 AM   #2427
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b5m aluminum rear hubs don't fit?
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Last edited by tony montana; 08-09-2016 at 11:59 AM.
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Old 08-09-2016, 11:34 AM   #2428
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Through b5m aluminum rear hubs don't fit?
they do. just less adjust-ability.
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Old 08-09-2016, 11:45 AM   #2429
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
If you are just getting into 1/10 I would just run it as is to start. It is not needed from the start. The Schelle Nova slipper is a great upgrade though and that way you can utilize the lockout at a later date. The lockouts are only really beneficial on med-high bite tracks. If it is loose at all it will do more harm than good.
Cool ive raced borrowed rear motors before just decided to jump into the mm craze head first. Gonna start with theay down transmission. Ill go from there with the nova slipper and eliminator
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Old 08-09-2016, 11:48 AM   #2430
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Originally Posted by Cuebulon View Post
Cool ive raced borrowed rear motors before just decided to jump into the mm craze head first. Gonna start with theay down transmission. Ill go from there with the nova slipper and eliminator
These are excellent eliminators. Light weight and allow you to use the same spurs for slipper or no slipper.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/avid-rc...vd1061/p488023
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