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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 05-03-2016, 07:22 AM   #226
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Originally Posted by Chris Brown View Post
With the carbon fiber pieces it'll allow different steering angles and will be more ridged, making for a more direct steering feel.
Makes sense, see how it works.

I thought they were Ti turnbuckles. Looks like it in pictures. The usual blue ones but the anodizing removed.
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Old 05-03-2016, 07:23 AM   #227
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Ok, one person above says the turnbukles are ti and one person says they are not ti.

I lean towards them not being ti as they would mention that in the marketing points... But I can hope. Looks like my b5m might get gutted for a few things.
I agree. All the pictures of the actual kit look to be shiny steel turnbuckles. All the "look at me!" marketing pre-release pictures had the blue titanium ones.

Of course AE said the turnbuckles and ball cups are a new design so I'm not even sure if the B5M Ti ones will work. But they probably will.
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Old 05-03-2016, 08:17 AM   #228
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Yes.

Looks like the waterfall can easily go aftermarket with some cool OEM styling to add a fan and actually get better cooling then b5.

What the take on the cf steering bolt ons. I like that there are no inserts but then a cf bolt on feels clunky and possibly weak for Akermann. I like the B5m design and ball stud. Maybe use same design with ball stud sitting horizontal then add washers in and out like the knuckle just turned 90 degrees? Or just mold it like B5m?
my d413 had cf parts on the end of the spindles and that buggy endured some hellacious crashes and those cf bits never broke.
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Old 05-03-2016, 08:19 AM   #229
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The bolt on akerman plates are aluminum not CF. The official photos on AE's website show them as aluminum. I'm sure they will offer CF as an option, similar to the RC8B3.
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Old 05-03-2016, 09:16 AM   #230
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Carbon fiber towers are sick. I've never broke a plastic tower racing on turf though.. But I race 17.5 stock so maybe stock doesn't break as much because they are drastically slower. Only part to ever break on b5m was front a-arm, and the front chassis plate started to fracture at the bulkhead screw holes.

I'm hoping for an equally durable kit with less steering slop.
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Old 05-03-2016, 09:18 AM   #231
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I'll be swapping over my fox shock bodies to this kit just for bling.

Why did they put nitride coated shock shafts in this kit rather than chrome when chrome is smoother it just doesn't last as long? Has anyone ever wore out a chrome shaft though??? I have yet to.
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Old 05-03-2016, 09:24 AM   #232
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Originally Posted by dsms4ever View Post
I'll be swapping over my fox shock bodies to this kit just for bling.

Why did they put nitride coated shock shafts in this kit rather than chrome when chrome is smoother it just doesn't last as long? Has anyone ever wore out a chrome shaft though??? I have yet to.
that's what i thought i'd do until i read this:

Quote:
Originally Posted by pink_sleeve View Post
At a glance the B5m and B6 may look the same but they are different in many ways. The front spindles don't work on the B5M Bc the geometry is changed to match the new steering setup. The rear shock bodies are also 27.5 now instead of 31. And the bodies from the B5M series do not work with the B6 or B6D without cutting and bending. I'd imagine the manual and parts listing will be available in the next week or 2.
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Old 05-03-2016, 09:28 AM   #233
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Originally Posted by pink_sleeve View Post
The rear shock bodies are also 27.5 now instead of 31.
The rear shock shafts on the B5 (and truck front) were 27.5, AE doesn't / didn't make a 31mm shaft, shock bodies are 31mm. In the redrc video Kody states that shocks are carried over from the B5.
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Old 05-03-2016, 09:31 AM   #234
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Originally Posted by dsms4ever View Post
I'll be swapping over my fox shock bodies to this kit just for bling.

Why did they put nitride coated shock shafts in this kit rather than chrome when chrome is smoother it just doesn't last as long? Has anyone ever wore out a chrome shaft though??? I have yet to.
unsure. I know the v2 gold shafts cost more than the chrome. And if the car comes with steel turnbuckles that are fairly durable, I am fine with it. I would prefer Ti, but in all honesty, I only run Lunsford Ti on my cars anyway. So i always toss the AE ones.
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Old 05-03-2016, 10:29 AM   #235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsms4ever View Post
I'll be swapping over my fox shock bodies to this kit just for bling.

Why did they put nitride coated shock shafts in this kit rather than chrome when chrome is smoother it just doesn't last as long? Has anyone ever wore out a chrome shaft though??? I have yet to.
The nitride shafts last longer but the chrome are way smoother. I plan to swap over my Fox bodies and chrome shafts from my CE edition kit.
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Old 05-03-2016, 11:40 AM   #236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
The rear shock shafts on the B5 (and truck front) were 27.5, AE doesn't / didn't make a 31mm shaft, shock bodies are 31mm. In the redrc video Kody states that shocks are carried over from the B5.
As pink stated, the B6/B6D will use 27.5 rear shock bodies . This was done to lower CG 3.5mm.
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Old 05-03-2016, 11:41 AM   #237
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Originally Posted by PW View Post
As pink stated, the B6/B6D will use 27.5 rear shock bodies . This was done to lower CG 3.5mm.
Thanks for the confirmation Paul.
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Old 05-03-2016, 12:13 PM   #238
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Some of the AE engineers ae answering B6 questions on B6 nation. Someone should summarize the QA onto the from page of the thread.. Not It....
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Old 05-03-2016, 12:16 PM   #239
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can't wait to see this car in action at my local track.
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Old 05-03-2016, 12:43 PM   #240
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Some of the AE engineers ae answering B6 questions on B6 nation. Someone should summarize the QA onto the from page of the thread.. Not It....
Kody is putting in a power session. He is really answering every question in that group this afternoon.
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