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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 08-07-2016, 04:57 PM   #2371
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Savox 1258 in mine with no complaints. I think that's the servo Cav is running now.
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Old 08-07-2016, 05:08 PM   #2372
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Thanks for the Yokomo spring post.

Back when I used to race, plastic tubs were all the rage and so these chassis films really were not needed. I'm curious how many times you can get away with a rear pill change or something else that requires a chassis screw before you end up having to replace the film because it is no longer sticky?
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Old 08-07-2016, 05:16 PM   #2373
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Originally Posted by TruggyStyle View Post
Hi Guys,

What is the best Servo Size for a B6? Is a regular Size to heavy? Or is it better to run a LP Servo?

I'm new to 1/10 Scale 2wd and I don't know what Servo Specs are needed. Is it hard to find an ESC with HV BEC?
It depends on how much front end bias you want.
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Old 08-07-2016, 06:04 PM   #2374
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Follow up report on that problem I had a few weeks ago about my rear breaking loose when I punch the throttle exiting a corner. I tried installing the shocks in front of the rear arms.... it was worst. Installed it back to the back side of the rear arm... much better. But still breaking loose.
I am running 30 wts all around, Yokomo green rears and AE white in front. 20mm ride height. So during practice before the race (with high grip track) I was still having that problem. I ran to the hobby shop and bought AE grey front springs. It worked on my B5Mlite.... no harm trying it on the B6. Installed it and problem solved.
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Old 08-07-2016, 06:23 PM   #2375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
Follow up report on that problem I had a few weeks ago about my rear breaking loose when I punch the throttle exiting a corner. I tried installing the shocks in front of the rear arms.... it was worst. Installed it back to the back side of the rear arm... much better. But still breaking loose.
I am running 30 wts all around, Yokomo green rears and AE white in front. 20mm ride height. So during practice before the race (with high grip track) I was still having that problem. I ran to the hobby shop and bought AE grey front springs. It worked on my B5Mlite.... no harm trying it on the B6. Installed it and problem solved.
Did you do anything with the suspension mounts? When i went to the front i also went to 1 in C and .5 in D. That narrows it up as well as adding .5 of toe in.
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Old 08-07-2016, 06:50 PM   #2376
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Well I finally got around to building the B6D Kit. I got one in the first round of them but moved from CT to NC. Also now going from racing carpet to clay at Speed RC in Mooresville, NC. If anyone races there speak up, I haven't run there yet.

Basically stock setup, titanium screw kit, aluminum shock goodies, flat arms, lay down trans and a few others.

On order: 4mm front and rear shock towers, Kyosho springs, MIP shim kit, and spur gear cover

I am looking forward to running this, seems like everyone is enjoying it.





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Old 08-07-2016, 07:00 PM   #2377
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that motor is a beast....had to get a fan for that motor to get optimum performance.

BTW... that's one big picture file.
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Old 08-07-2016, 07:09 PM   #2378
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Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
that motor is a beast....had to get a fan for that motor to get optimum performance.

BTW... that's one big picture file.

I cannot wait to use the motor, I got one about a year and a half ago and it was and still is a beast! I know they've made some changes so I can't imagine it's anything less than what I had in my B5M. There is a fan back there, mounted to the D using a servo bracket.

Sorry for the big file, just posting from my phone.
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Old 08-07-2016, 07:21 PM   #2379
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Originally Posted by Just2much19 View Post
I cannot wait to use the motor, I got one about a year and a half ago and it was and still is a beast! I know they've made some changes so I can't imagine it's anything less than what I had in my B5M. There is a fan back there, mounted to the D using a servo bracket.

Sorry for the big file, just posting from my phone.
today at the races. I was almost popping wheelies in the straight everytime I hit a small lump of clay... I would buy another one just for a spare. BTW... have the same Lipo batts too. Those are amazing. stays at 2.0 IR and I've been chargingt at 20A and discharging at 30A.
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Old 08-07-2016, 07:46 PM   #2380
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Old 08-07-2016, 09:08 PM   #2381
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Quote:
Schuie Driver

Back when I used to race, plastic tubs were all the rage and so these chassis films really were not needed. I'm curious how many times you can get away with a rear pill change or something else that requires a chassis screw before you end up having to replace the film because it is no longer sticky?
I ran my B6 the last 3 days in stock buggy between our Thursday club race, Friday practice race, and Saturday series finale race on turf. Thursday sometime on a new kit I had part of a side gear fail in my gear diff and bent the pins. So all weekend I was constantly pulling mine back to work on it. I had the transmission out at least 8 times between straightening the pins to fluid changes the protector had plenty of turf dust on it and is still sticking great. The car on the other hand is on the bench with a broken shock shaft and bent diff pins again due to an esc brake failure locking up the rear end sending it violently into a cartwheel at the end of out 96' straight away.
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Old 08-07-2016, 09:14 PM   #2382
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Had the first ride with mine at our local low bite loamy/dusty clay track.
Cant say I am completly satisfied. I set the B6D like my B5m up and have about 5% more weight on the fronts.
The car felt very smooth but I kinda felt the way I am missing steering. Had rear grip like hell but when steering the car felt a lot like pushing over the fronts.
I could put the 10g which I added instead of the brass D but I dunno if thats the right way to go.
Current setup:
F 32.5 green
R 27,5 green
Brass C + 10g (Brass D) weight
3,5 Toe In

Everything else is stock. Could mount the shocks on the inner hole. Except this I dunno what to do!
Even hat problems being ahead of a friend with his B5R (normally thats the car we drive here) - but he is no the best driver (getting there...) - so that hurt even more

Added a pic of our track (quite loamy yesterday and lots of grip for our track. On the red line I lost so mch speed cause the car pushed like hell (the B5R was faster there!!!)
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Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-6852058933888839352-account_id%3D1.jpg  
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Last edited by man1ac; 08-07-2016 at 09:31 PM.
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Old 08-07-2016, 10:33 PM   #2383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DG Designs View Post
Did you do anything with the suspension mounts? When i went to the front i also went to 1 in C and .5 in D. That narrows it up as well as adding .5 of toe in.
Did not do any of that because the problem went away and the buggy was pretty dialed to my driving style.
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Old 08-08-2016, 01:52 AM   #2384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by man1ac View Post
Had the first ride with mine at our local low bite loamy/dusty clay track.
Cant say I am completly satisfied. I set the B6D like my B5m up and have about 5% more weight on the fronts.
The car felt very smooth but I kinda felt the way I am missing steering. Had rear grip like hell but when steering the car felt a lot like pushing over the fronts.
I could put the 10g which I added instead of the brass D but I dunno if thats the right way to go.
Current setup:
F 32.5 green
R 27,5 green
Brass C + 10g (Brass D) weight
3,5 Toe In

Everything else is stock. Could mount the shocks on the inner hole. Except this I dunno what to do!
Even hat problems being ahead of a friend with his B5R (normally thats the car we drive here) - but he is no the best driver (getting there...) - so that hurt even more

Added a pic of our track (quite loamy yesterday and lots of grip for our track. On the red line I lost so mch speed cause the car pushed like hell (the B5R was faster there!!!)

Anti-squat? On power or off power push? What are your front links at? Front toe? I would say 3.5 rear toe is too much. Take some grip out of it and if you're not at 2* anti squat, try it.
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Old 08-08-2016, 01:55 AM   #2385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZJP View Post
Anti-squat? On power or off power push? What are your front links at? Front toe? I would say 3.5 rear toe is too much. Take some grip out of it and if you're not at 2* anti squat, try it.
Anti Squad is 1. I had 3,5 on the rear of the B5m and this really did it on dry, dusty conditions.
I think on power push...
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