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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 08-03-2016, 09:32 PM   #2311
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Default Nice build!

I just finished my build last night; it went off without a hitch and was pretty enjoyable and had great fitment on all the parts. Seems like I got a ton of spare parts/screws/washers. Unfortunately when I got to the track and was setting camber I realized that my rear camber ballcup was split and would pop-off. I have a set on order, too bad all my extra parts didn't include a spare cup.

Had to run my 3 gear SRX2 while the B6D stayed way too clean!


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Old 08-03-2016, 10:56 PM   #2312
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Is there really that big of a difference with the B6D compared to the B5M ?

I only been running the B5M mod motor for 4 mouths with 3 gear mid motor on med traction clay.
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Old 08-04-2016, 01:38 AM   #2313
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Unfortunately there is. The new car is quite a bit different . Not just in parts but feel as well. Being a new car it still has a long way to come before the setups really sort themselves out. But even with the car being new, it's still better than the 5m was. The materials are better quality, the adjustment ranges are greater, and the way the car drives and jumps is better. It really is a better car. I don't think you need to run out and buy it though if you're the casual racer. The previous car is still capable.
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Old 08-04-2016, 04:50 AM   #2314
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Originally Posted by goehm View Post
I just finished my build last night; it went off without a hitch and was pretty enjoyable and had great fitment on all the parts. Seems like I got a ton of spare parts/screws/washers. Unfortunately when I got to the track and was setting camber I realized that my rear camber ballcup was split and would pop-off. I have a set on order, too bad all my extra parts didn't include a spare cup.

Had to run my 3 gear SRX2 while the B6D stayed way too clean!


Really nice clean layout there.
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Old 08-04-2016, 05:05 AM   #2315
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Originally Posted by goehm View Post
I just finished my build last night; it went off without a hitch and was pretty enjoyable and had great fitment on all the parts. Seems like I got a ton of spare parts/screws/washers. Unfortunately when I got to the track and was setting camber I realized that my rear camber ballcup was split and would pop-off. I have a set on order, too bad all my extra parts didn't include a spare cup.

Had to run my 3 gear SRX2 while the B6D stayed way too clean!


I had a split ball cup too.
I ordered a bunch of spares just in case.
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Old 08-04-2016, 06:53 AM   #2316
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8g and 13g Aluminum Chassis weight plates are in stock at Tower. Limited quantities.
Amain too, I believe.
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Old 08-04-2016, 07:02 AM   #2317
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Originally Posted by HotRodDiesels View Post
I had a split ball cup too.
I ordered a bunch of spares just in case.
I didn't think you raced! Should be a ton of B6s in Htown now.
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Old 08-04-2016, 07:43 AM   #2318
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Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
Is there really that big of a difference with the B6D compared to the B5M ?

I only been running the B5M mod motor for 4 mouths with 3 gear mid motor on med traction clay.
Jason Snyder has a good review video in youtube ..
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Old 08-04-2016, 08:01 AM   #2319
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Originally Posted by Chris Brown View Post
Unfortunately there is. The new car is quite a bit different . Not just in parts but feel as well. Being a new car it still has a long way to come before the setups really sort themselves out. But even with the car being new, it's still better than the 5m was. The materials are better quality, the adjustment ranges are greater, and the way the car drives and jumps is better. It really is a better car. I don't think you need to run out and buy it though if you're the casual racer. The previous car is still capable.



Yea I'm pretty much a club racer and do some bigger races . The only reason i would think about the B6D is just for the upgrades alum suspension blocks/ turnbuckles , better Coates shocks .

I race mod buggy so don't think the latest and greatest is hugh .
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Old 08-04-2016, 08:11 AM   #2320
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Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
Yea I'm pretty much a club racer and do some bigger races . The only reason i would think about the B6D is just for the upgrades alum suspension blocks/ turnbuckles , better Coates shocks .

I race mod buggy so don't think the latest and greatest is hugh .
The car is really nice. Easier to work on, more tuning options and really light out of the box
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Old 08-04-2016, 09:14 AM   #2321
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I didn't think you raced! Should be a ton of B6s in Htown now.
Yep & I'm faster than you
Bahahahahaha
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Old 08-04-2016, 01:57 PM   #2322
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Really nice clean layout there.
Thanks - there's nothing to it with this car really. It's so easy to wire. Since they have a channel for a sensor wire and without the separate 'compartments' it's all a breeze! It'll be cool to see what other folks come up with ... should be some super clean installs with this car.
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Old 08-04-2016, 02:01 PM   #2323
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The car is really nice. Easier to work on, more tuning options and really light out of the box
The one item folks were commenting on at the track last night was the way the rear shock tower attaches to the 3 gear/standup. Apparently the old gear box was a lot easier to get in and out, similar to the TLR 22 (where you could leave the tower and such alone).

I don't see any issue with it, and I had more to remove on my old car and that wasn't a big deal either.

I think the ease of access to the steering components and ease of servo removal/adjustment is a big plus. But again, my reference is from a vehicle that was much more labor intensive.
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Old 08-04-2016, 02:14 PM   #2324
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Originally Posted by goehm View Post
The one item folks were commenting on at the track last night was the way the rear shock tower attaches to the 3 gear/standup. Apparently the old gear box was a lot easier to get in and out, similar to the TLR 22 (where you could leave the tower and such alone).

I don't see any issue with it, and I had more to remove on my old car and that wasn't a big deal either.

I think the ease of access to the steering components and ease of servo removal/adjustment is a big plus. But again, my reference is from a vehicle that was much more labor intensive.
there are more screws to get to the diffs, yes. but replacing the rear arms and inserts is a snap now.
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Old 08-04-2016, 02:15 PM   #2325
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Originally Posted by goehm View Post
The one item folks were commenting on at the track last night was the way the rear shock tower attaches to the 3 gear/standup. Apparently the old gear box was a lot easier to get in and out, similar to the TLR 22 (where you could leave the tower and such alone).

I don't see any issue with it, and I had more to remove on my old car and that wasn't a big deal either.

I think the ease of access to the steering components and ease of servo removal/adjustment is a big plus. But again, my reference is from a vehicle that was much more labor intensive.
honestly, I just wish it didnt have CF towers. or that they were optional. my only gripe with the car. otherwise I love it
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