649LikesTeam Associated B6 & B6D thread
06-07-2017, 10:46 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!
Quick links to all the sections on the first page! Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here! Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials How to's and build-specific posts Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D: Laydown conversion Instruction Manuals: B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber: Sanding and sealing carbon fiber Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3 Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4 Charts for Quick reference:         1) put inner bearing in hub 2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle 3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier 4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier 5) push outter bearing into hub carrier using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.  I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM). Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter: I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.
The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right. 
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08-03-2016, 09:32 PM
#2311
Nice build!
I just finished my build last night; it went off without a hitch and was pretty enjoyable and had great fitment on all the parts. Seems like I got a ton of spare parts/screws/washers. Unfortunately when I got to the track and was setting camber I realized that my rear camber ballcup was split and would pop-off. I have a set on order, too bad all my extra parts didn't include a spare cup.
Had to run my 3 gear SRX2 while the B6D stayed way too clean!
Had to run my 3 gear SRX2 while the B6D stayed way too clean!
08-03-2016, 10:56 PM
#2312
Is there really that big of a difference with the B6D compared to the B5M ?
I only been running the B5M mod motor for 4 mouths with 3 gear mid motor on med traction clay.
I only been running the B5M mod motor for 4 mouths with 3 gear mid motor on med traction clay.
08-04-2016, 01:38 AM
#2313
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (19)
Unfortunately there is. The new car is quite a bit different . Not just in parts but feel as well. Being a new car it still has a long way to come before the setups really sort themselves out. But even with the car being new, it's still better than the 5m was. The materials are better quality, the adjustment ranges are greater, and the way the car drives and jumps is better. It really is a better car. I don't think you need to run out and buy it though if you're the casual racer. The previous car is still capable.
08-04-2016, 04:50 AM
#2314
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
I just finished my build last night; it went off without a hitch and was pretty enjoyable and had great fitment on all the parts. Seems like I got a ton of spare parts/screws/washers. Unfortunately when I got to the track and was setting camber I realized that my rear camber ballcup was split and would pop-off. I have a set on order, too bad all my extra parts didn't include a spare cup.
Had to run my 3 gear SRX2 while the B6D stayed way too clean!
Had to run my 3 gear SRX2 while the B6D stayed way too clean!
08-04-2016, 05:05 AM
#2315
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (20)
I just finished my build last night; it went off without a hitch and was pretty enjoyable and had great fitment on all the parts. Seems like I got a ton of spare parts/screws/washers. Unfortunately when I got to the track and was setting camber I realized that my rear camber ballcup was split and would pop-off. I have a set on order, too bad all my extra parts didn't include a spare cup.
Had to run my 3 gear SRX2 while the B6D stayed way too clean!
Had to run my 3 gear SRX2 while the B6D stayed way too clean!
I ordered a bunch of spares just in case.
08-04-2016, 06:53 AM
#2316
08-04-2016, 07:02 AM
#2317
Tech Regular
08-04-2016, 08:01 AM
#2319
Unfortunately there is. The new car is quite a bit different . Not just in parts but feel as well. Being a new car it still has a long way to come before the setups really sort themselves out. But even with the car being new, it's still better than the 5m was. The materials are better quality, the adjustment ranges are greater, and the way the car drives and jumps is better. It really is a better car. I don't think you need to run out and buy it though if you're the casual racer. The previous car is still capable.
Yea I'm pretty much a club racer and do some bigger races . The only reason i would think about the B6D is just for the upgrades alum suspension blocks/ turnbuckles , better Coates shocks .
I race mod buggy so don't think the latest and greatest is hugh .
08-04-2016, 01:57 PM
#2322
Thanks - there's nothing to it with this car really. It's so easy to wire. Since they have a channel for a sensor wire and without the separate 'compartments' it's all a breeze! It'll be cool to see what other folks come up with ... should be some super clean installs with this car.
08-04-2016, 02:01 PM
#2323
I don't see any issue with it, and I had more to remove on my old car and that wasn't a big deal either.
I think the ease of access to the steering components and ease of servo removal/adjustment is a big plus. But again, my reference is from a vehicle that was much more labor intensive.
08-04-2016, 02:14 PM
#2324
The one item folks were commenting on at the track last night was the way the rear shock tower attaches to the 3 gear/standup. Apparently the old gear box was a lot easier to get in and out, similar to the TLR 22 (where you could leave the tower and such alone).
I don't see any issue with it, and I had more to remove on my old car and that wasn't a big deal either.
I think the ease of access to the steering components and ease of servo removal/adjustment is a big plus. But again, my reference is from a vehicle that was much more labor intensive.
I don't see any issue with it, and I had more to remove on my old car and that wasn't a big deal either.
I think the ease of access to the steering components and ease of servo removal/adjustment is a big plus. But again, my reference is from a vehicle that was much more labor intensive.
08-04-2016, 02:15 PM
#2325
The one item folks were commenting on at the track last night was the way the rear shock tower attaches to the 3 gear/standup. Apparently the old gear box was a lot easier to get in and out, similar to the TLR 22 (where you could leave the tower and such alone).
I don't see any issue with it, and I had more to remove on my old car and that wasn't a big deal either.
I think the ease of access to the steering components and ease of servo removal/adjustment is a big plus. But again, my reference is from a vehicle that was much more labor intensive.
I don't see any issue with it, and I had more to remove on my old car and that wasn't a big deal either.
I think the ease of access to the steering components and ease of servo removal/adjustment is a big plus. But again, my reference is from a vehicle that was much more labor intensive.