R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: RCBuddha
Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

Print Wikipost

Like Tree303Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-02-2016, 06:54 PM   #2266
Tech Master
 
Phillip F's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Santa Clarita, CA
Posts: 1,210
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by abailey21 View Post
Scott was sandbagging lol
If he was averaging at 16 seconds and lower then he definitely needs to move up.
Phillip F is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2016, 07:31 PM   #2267
JAE
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,828
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Don't have a b6. (Yet?)

Everyone getting equal traction with the standup as the b5m WITHOUT a ton of mods or compensating setup changes? Thx all
JAE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2016, 07:35 PM   #2268
Tech Regular
 
bru00z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Australia
Posts: 330
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Don't have a b6. (Yet?)

Everyone getting equal traction with the standup as the b5m WITHOUT a ton of mods or compensating setup changes? Thx all
I have the B6D. Once its moving the traction is better than the B5m but out of some slow corners on a slippery track it does have less traction. A few small setup changes can easily bring this back so really depends on your track and driving style.

I was a point and shoot driver but learning to be smoother and this buggy really rewards you when you are.
__________________
Alex

Team Associated / Ace Hobbies / Proline Australia / VRP
bru00z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2016, 09:43 PM   #2269
Tech Master
 
Phillip F's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Santa Clarita, CA
Posts: 1,210
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Don't have a b6. (Yet?)

Everyone getting equal traction with the standup as the b5m WITHOUT a ton of mods or compensating setup changes? Thx all
Just stick to your Xray Jason. Your car is already fast enough. The B6 is really finicky when it comes to track condition. It's faster in the corner than the B5M that's for sure if the track has tons of traction. The B5M is more forgiving.
Phillip F is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2016, 10:07 PM   #2270
Tech Champion
 
abailey21's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: SoCal
Posts: 5,216
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
If he was averaging at 16 seconds and lower then he definitely needs to move up.
I have no idea what his times were, I knew I blew out and he won
__________________
K.C.C.O.
abailey21 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2016, 10:12 PM   #2271
Tech Addict
 
bilster44's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sactown, Ca
Posts: 666
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Battery Hold Down

Who makes/sells a carbon battery hold down BESIDES Raw Speed, Schelle or Bezerk?
__________________
"Let Your Racing Speak"
bilster44 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2016, 10:44 PM   #2272
JAE
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,828
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Thx! I'm trying to gauge if the car gives up a little traction in favor of more corner speed and tight handling. B6d I drove once reminded me of my X-ray before tuning it. My experience with the standup X-ray xb2 was that it was like driving a buggy in between my b5m and lay down Xb2 traction-wise. Felt like I gave up some grip for phenomenal handling. If it turns out the b6 gives up no grip for all the positives I think I'll have to get one....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
Just stick to your Xray Jason. Your car is already fast enough. The B6 is really finicky when it comes to track condition. It's faster in the corner than the B5M that's for sure if the track has tons of traction. The B5M is more forgiving.
JAE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2016, 11:08 PM   #2273
Tech Elite
 
aeRayls's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,215
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
Just stick to your Xray Jason. Your car is already fast enough. The B6 is really finicky when it comes to track condition. It's faster in the corner than the B5M that's for sure if the track has tons of traction. The B5M is more forgiving.
That sounds like a tire or setup issue. If you're not running the narrow rear pivot that could be why the rear endon your b6 has good corner speed and a little too free in some conditions.
Using the alum D block and the 1 insert pointed inward gives the same width pivot as the b5
aeRayls is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2016, 12:14 AM   #2274
Tech Master
 
Phillip F's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Santa Clarita, CA
Posts: 1,210
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by aeRayls View Post
That sounds like a tire or setup issue. If you're not running the narrow rear pivot that could be why the rear endon your b6 has good corner speed and a little too free in some conditions.
Using the alum D block and the 1 insert pointed inward gives the same width pivot as the b5
are you saying by getting the alum d block the B6 will stay consistent with phenomenal traction even when the track changes from high grip to dry? Right now.. My B6 is amazing when there is tons of traction at the track.... But when it dries a little bit my rear end breaks lose in the corner when I gun the throttle exiting corners.
Phillip F is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2016, 04:45 AM   #2275
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 290
Default

He's saying that if you get the aluminum D block, you can adjust the pivot width to be the same as the B5m. Do this by using the 1 deg inserts pointing inward in both the C and D blocks. This gives the same 3/1 setup as the kit, but with a narrower pivot width.
__________________
Team Associated / Reedy / JConcepts / BoomRC
boucher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2016, 04:53 AM   #2276
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 290
Default

An aftermarket option for shock towers:

http://www.redrc.net/2016/08/x-facto...-shock-towers/




__________________
Team Associated / Reedy / JConcepts / BoomRC
boucher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2016, 05:31 AM   #2277
Super Moderator
 
Matt Trimmings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 5,693
Trader Rating: 156 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bilster44 View Post
Who makes/sells a carbon battery hold down BESIDES Raw Speed, Schelle or Bezerk?
Nobody that I have seen / heard of.
__________________
Thanks to: JConcepts ~ Schelle ~ Kustom RC Graphics

#MakeRCTechGreatAgain
Matt Trimmings is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2016, 06:05 AM   #2278
Tech Elite
 
"Smiley"'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Cypress, Tx
Posts: 4,529
Trader Rating: 166 (98%+)
Default

The vrp weights are also reversible, so if you don't like the milled look, flip it for a brushed aluminum look. Will have blue anodized weights as well!
Attached Thumbnails
Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-weights-1.png  
__________________
Vision Racing Products | Team Associated | AKA | Tekin | Sanwa | VP Powermaster Fuel | RC Concepts Engines | MIP | Avid | Boom RC Graphics | Paint By: "Smiley"

Vision Racing Products (VRP)- www.visionracingproducts.com
"Smiley" is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2016, 06:59 AM   #2279
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 230
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Can somebody point me to someplace I can try to learn about anti squat and roll centers? The B6D has a lot of adjustments in this area, but the manual doesn't really get into much detail about what changes you can expect by moving the pills in the C block. (Quite honestly the manual confuses the heck out of me here.)

Another newbie question about chassis weights. I see Associated has weighted C blocks which I can assume provides more rear grip. Is the purpose of the chassis weights to put more weight up front and provide a more "balanced" car?
Schuie Driver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2016, 07:00 AM   #2280
Super Moderator
 
Matt Trimmings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 5,693
Trader Rating: 156 (100%+)
Default

The purpose of the chassis weights is to fine tune to your liking. Certain surfaces like a heavier car, like carpet racing.
__________________
Thanks to: JConcepts ~ Schelle ~ Kustom RC Graphics

#MakeRCTechGreatAgain
Matt Trimmings is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (0 members and 3 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:46 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net