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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 05-02-2016, 05:39 PM   #211
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I think they're steel, just polished. If they were Ti, they would note it in the specs. If they are Ti, then score!
Yeah that definitely makes sense - I know Jarosz and Cav always changed things up with anodizing/stripping turnbuckles and the like so maybe he took some Mothers Polish to the plates.

I'd link the photo but I don't have enough posts yet. (Plates in question can be found on Cavs Instagram).
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Old 05-02-2016, 05:41 PM   #212
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Yeah that definitely makes sense - I know Jarosz and Cav always changed things up with anodizing/stripping turnbuckles and the like so maybe he took some Mothers Polish to the plates.

I'd link the photo but I don't have enough posts yet. (Plates in question can be found on Cavs Instagram).
I like the blueing they did to the plates.
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Old 05-02-2016, 05:44 PM   #213
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I believe in one of the introduction videos they stated there would be steel and aluminum plates for different weights
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Old 05-02-2016, 05:44 PM   #214
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What plates are you referring to?
Sent a PM with the link since I can't link yet.
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Old 05-02-2016, 06:19 PM   #215
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The plates are stainless steel to prevent rusting.
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Old 05-02-2016, 06:23 PM   #216
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In one of the videos they said it was steel plates. To be honest at my track I feel carpet made half of the people turn away from the hobby. Turnouts are lower then usual now.
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Old 05-02-2016, 06:31 PM   #217
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In one of the videos they said it was steel plates. To be honest at my track I feel carpet made half of the people turn away from the hobby. Turnouts are lower then usual now.
It looks fun and would like to try it but dirt offers unique characteristics. I like the unevenness a dirt track offers.
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Old 05-02-2016, 06:40 PM   #218
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3srcracing the track was awesome before it went in search of the ultimate traction (wet slick's track) just cant get myself to try the rug, maybe with the new B6 I will give it a chance. I am hooked on the moon dirt!!!!
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Old 05-02-2016, 10:01 PM   #219
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The turnbuckles are ti, right?
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Old 05-02-2016, 10:24 PM   #220
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I would think carpet tracks have to have a good track set up too. Just like dirt, when the track is no fun or set up weird people turn away. Next time I am in Vegas going to try 702, RC tracks of Vegas is sweet.

Have not had a lot of experience with cf towers, having a front wing may help save the front tower, rear I don't know. With B5m breaking stuff was so few and far between stopped thinking about it.

Can't wait to see build weight for 17.5 class.
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Old 05-02-2016, 10:32 PM   #221
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The turnbuckles are ti, right?
Yes.

Looks like the waterfall can easily go aftermarket with some cool OEM styling to add a fan and actually get better cooling then b5.

What the take on the cf steering bolt ons. I like that there are no inserts but then a cf bolt on feels clunky and possibly weak for Akermann. I like the B5m design and ball stud. Maybe use same design with ball stud sitting horizontal then add washers in and out like the knuckle just turned 90 degrees? Or just mold it like B5m?
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Last edited by Cridd; 05-02-2016 at 10:51 PM.
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Old 05-02-2016, 11:26 PM   #222
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With the carbon fiber pieces it'll allow different steering angles and will be more ridged, making for a more direct steering feel.
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Old 05-03-2016, 12:13 AM   #223
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About the carpet thing, Brent took a piece of EOS carpet with him, so guess they will be testing over in the US.
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Old 05-03-2016, 05:52 AM   #224
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The turnbuckles are ti, right?
The kit turnbuckles are not titanium. They are just like the ones that come in the TLR kits
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Old 05-03-2016, 06:11 AM   #225
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Ok, one person above says the turnbukles are ti and one person says they are not ti.

I lean towards them not being ti as they would mention that in the marketing points... But I can hope. Looks like my b5m might get gutted for a few things.
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