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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 08-02-2016, 09:37 AM   #2221
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Used the old B5m servo mount and made a little fan mount for the D car.
Does the body fit without modification?
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:39 AM   #2222
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I've broke 1 rear arm in the entire life of the B5m...and it deserved to break. The less stuff you hit the less stuff you break.

You still haven't answered my question if you were running the washer or not?
yes I installed a washer per manual.
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:41 AM   #2223
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you increase you chance of breaking a stud off in the aluminum hub or camber block. The plastic hubs are fine. If you go aluminum, I would get the schelle ones. They have a replaceable top piece. But... when I ran the schelle hubs on my b5m, they freed up the rear and added steering to the car. If you are fine with that, then go for it. I think they are due out at the end of this month.
The schelle hubs are out.

I've never been a fan of the feel of alloy hubs, nor the added weight.
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:42 AM   #2224
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yes I installed a washer per manual.
Judging by the way that thing looks and your description of running the laydown at SCVRC...I would say you're trying to do too much too quick. The track dries out and is very sensitive to moisture...if it dries out it can be a handful with the standup car.
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:43 AM   #2225
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The schelle hubs are out.

I've never been a fan of the feel of alloy hubs, nor the added weight.
The new Schelle hubs that accept the b6d hub inserts will be available the end of the month.
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:44 AM   #2226
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The schelle hubs are out.

I've never been a fan of the feel of alloy hubs, nor the added weight.
Cool. I thought Kurt said late August on FB. Looks like he has 23 in stock on his site.
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:48 AM   #2227
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Cool. I thought Kurt said late August on FB. Looks like he has 23 in stock on his site.
Those are the pre-orders most likely.
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:49 AM   #2228
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http://www.schelleracing.com/Schelle...-Black-SCH1234

Sorry, preorder.
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Old 08-02-2016, 09:54 AM   #2229
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Those are the pre-orders most likely.
Ok, I didnt think they were out yet....
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Old 08-02-2016, 10:06 AM   #2230
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
Judging by the way that thing looks and your description of running the laydown at SCVRC...I would say you're trying to do too much too quick. The track dries out and is very sensitive to moisture...if it dries out it can be a handful with the standup car.
True. There is a 20-30 minute window of excellent traction after they water down the track.

For the record, my brother drove the car and damaged the rear hubs. The damaged hub wouldn't have happened on a practice day only if I was the only person driving it.
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Old 08-02-2016, 10:09 AM   #2231
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True. There is a 20-30 minute window of excellent traction after they water down the track.

For the record, my brother drove the car and damaged the rear hubs. The damaged hub wouldn't have happened on a practice day only if I was the only person driving it.
Ah that's right....Don't let your brother drive it anymore. And yes, the body fits fine with the fan in that location. I put some fuzzy Velcro on the body so the fan doesn't rub through the paint.
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Old 08-02-2016, 10:57 AM   #2232
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Judging by the way that thing looks and your description of running the laydown at SCVRC...I would say you're trying to do too much too quick. The track dries out and is very sensitive to moisture...if it dries out it can be a handful with the standup car.
I think you mean "handful with the laydown car", right? That's what I'm finding with my B6D with laydown -- it's great for about 20 min. after the track has been watered, but if it's dry at all...
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Old 08-02-2016, 11:03 AM   #2233
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I think you mean "handful with the laydown car", right? That's what I'm finding with my B6D with laydown -- it's great for about 20 min. after the track has been watered, but if it's dry at all...
No. I mean handful with the standup car...meaning the laydown is going to be an even bigger handful. I've been to that track and when it dries out and you still try to run the "preferred" tire you better hold on, or wait for the water. The track doesn't have a large window of consistency.
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Old 08-02-2016, 11:06 AM   #2234
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I had the same problem and now wondering if I did the wrong thing: I left the horn off 90* and lengthened the steering link to 3mm (making sure to center the washers on the link) and left trim at 0... I have a lower end futaba and dont have "sub-trim". My reasoning is that I will still have the same throw in both directions without having to alter EPA's asymmetrically. The toe was dead 0* with the steering turnbuckles at kit length... Anyone care to comment on my strategy?

EDIT: YES, I left the horn leaning towards "passenger side" to accommodate the longer steering link length.

Hi Guys, I know I am new here, but would anybody mind taking the time to answer my question? I just want to make sure my reasoning is sound. (or not)
Thanks in advance!
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Old 08-02-2016, 11:08 AM   #2235
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if the car drives straight and you have full left/right lock, I would just not worry too much.
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