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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-31-2016, 04:40 PM   #2161
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I hate the nut on the battery strap.... the B5M thumb screw is so much better.
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Old 07-31-2016, 05:21 PM   #2162
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Have they changed the size of the threads for the battery holder or could you use B5 ones on the battery hold down?
B5's work fine, I switched after the first day.
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Old 07-31-2016, 05:52 PM   #2163
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Im assuming you are talking about the transponder? That thing is 13 years old and the wires broke inside the case a long time ago. My soldering skills are just fine. Do i know you? Comments like that usually only come from friends.

Those motor wires look odd to me. Could be just the picture.
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Old 07-31-2016, 07:23 PM   #2164
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rivkin's cars with a tekin motor?
No with the fan mounted like this pic
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Old 07-31-2016, 08:02 PM   #2165
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Well, finally got the electronics in. Having trouble binding the receiver to the transmitter, but I'll tackle that tomorrow.
with my futaba and reedy 1000z i had to reverse the esc servo setting on the radio to calibrate it.
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Old 07-31-2016, 08:19 PM   #2166
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with my futaba and reedy 1000z i had to reverse the esc servo setting on the radio to calibrate it.
always cracks me up with the weirdness of the futaba. I loved them back in the 80s and early 90s....
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Old 07-31-2016, 08:22 PM   #2167
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always cracks me up with the weirdness of the futaba. I loved them back in the 80s and early 90s....
#airtronics/Sanwa
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Old 07-31-2016, 08:28 PM   #2168
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Ive never messed with 3 hole pistons. Am i understanding it correct that 2x1.7 will have less high speed compression the 3x1.4. My car feels really good with 27.5 and 2x1.7 other than the chassis slaps a little. Would the 3x1.4 help this but still be fairly soft in the corners?
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Old 07-31-2016, 08:32 PM   #2169
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Originally Posted by BRSracing View Post
with my futaba and reedy 1000z i had to reverse the esc servo setting on the radio to calibrate it.
Took me a bit to figure it out. Had to change rx mode then turn radio off and back on to bind them. Then, had to reverse both throttle and steering. Other than that, it's all good. My only complaint is that with servo trim set 0, there's no way to put the servo horn on at 90 degrees. So my trim is always off by quite a bit. No big as long as I remember to set my endpoints properly.
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Old 07-31-2016, 11:38 PM   #2170
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Use your subtrim in the radio to center the servo. That will allow you to keep the full range of your trim tab.

It's not unusual for JR/Sanwa/Futaba to have different servo directions. Servo reversing has been standard practice for a LONG time.
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Old 07-31-2016, 11:39 PM   #2171
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Originally Posted by BruceR. View Post
Took me a bit to figure it out. Had to change rx mode then turn radio off and back on to bind them. Then, had to reverse both throttle and steering. Other than that, it's all good. My only complaint is that with servo trim set 0, there's no way to put the servo horn on at 90 degrees. So my trim is always off by quite a bit. No big as long as I remember to set my endpoints properly.
You can adjust using subtrim while setting your trim at 0... Then fine tune using trim.
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Old 08-01-2016, 05:07 AM   #2172
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I still have mine
Awesome! I believe that charger was called the Reflex? I had the model before that was red with a yellow heat sink. You had to adjust the charge rate with a screw driver. I couldn't afford a power supply so I would use a 12 volt car battery. I ran 1200 Sanyo SC's
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Old 08-01-2016, 05:27 AM   #2173
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Thanks for the tips on using the steering subtrim and setting the trim to 0. So many adjustments on radios these days....the 4PLS is my first 'real' radio since my old Tower Hobbies radio that came with my T3. Off to the Futaba thread.
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Old 08-01-2016, 06:19 AM   #2174
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#airtronics/Sanwa
I had a M12 like my Futaba 4px much better.
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Old 08-01-2016, 10:00 AM   #2175
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Originally Posted by BruceR. View Post
Took me a bit to figure it out. Had to change rx mode then turn radio off and back on to bind them. Then, had to reverse both throttle and steering. Other than that, it's all good. My only complaint is that with servo trim set 0, there's no way to put the servo horn on at 90 degrees. So my trim is always off by quite a bit. No big as long as I remember to set my endpoints properly.
I had the same problem and now wondering if I did the wrong thing: I left the horn off 90* and lengthened the steering link to 3mm (making sure to center the washers on the link) and left trim at 0... I have a lower end futaba and dont have "sub-trim". My reasoning is that I will still have the same throw in both directions without having to alter EPA's asymmetrically. The toe was dead 0* with the steering turnbuckles at kit length... Anyone care to comment on my strategy?

EDIT: YES, I left the horn leaning towards "passenger side" to accommodate the longer steering link length.
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