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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-31-2016, 10:49 AM   #2146
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The B5m pucks work, but need the MIP #16085 shim kit.
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Old 07-31-2016, 10:58 AM   #2147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boucher View Post
The B5m pucks work, but need the MIP #16085 shim kit.
U have a link to where I can get the shim kit
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Old 07-31-2016, 10:59 AM   #2148
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http://miponline.com/store/mip16085.html
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Old 07-31-2016, 11:02 AM   #2149
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Never mind I found it
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Old 07-31-2016, 11:32 AM   #2150
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I looked 10 pages back, but is anyone making after market chassis weights as ae has never had them in stock?
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Old 07-31-2016, 11:54 AM   #2151
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Well I guess I'll start off by saying I have the b6d with laydown and the 22 3.0 laydown with the dirt tranny. I got the opportunity to test both cars yesterday. Now mind you first time ever running laydown. Both cars performed well. Both were fairly easy to drive compared to regular stand up 3 gear. The b6d I have not run in standard 3 gear. The 3.0 I have. We run on medium bite using super soft slicks. The losi felt more stable. The 6d felt a little more nimble. Lap times where nearly identical. Both had stock setups with just the laydown. My take is the losi so far seemed like I could push it harder. Where if I was smooth the b6d seemed better. One thing I hate about both are the battery straps. Just a pain to remove the battery if you run the wires over the strap. Just thought I would post my opinion so far
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Old 07-31-2016, 12:14 PM   #2152
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Never mind I found it
Glad I could help
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Old 07-31-2016, 12:28 PM   #2153
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If using a lay down in B6d will you need to use the b6 body.
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Old 07-31-2016, 12:29 PM   #2154
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There is only one body. If you've already trimmed it for the stand up trans, it'd be wise to get a new one though, so that it won't be trimmed in the area that is supposed to protect the spur gear.
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Old 07-31-2016, 12:55 PM   #2155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tony montana View Post
Well I guess I'll start off by saying I have the b6d with laydown and the 22 3.0 laydown with the dirt tranny. I got the opportunity to test both cars yesterday. Now mind you first time ever running laydown. Both cars performed well. Both were fairly easy to drive compared to regular stand up 3 gear. The b6d I have not run in standard 3 gear. The 3.0 I have. We run on medium bite using super soft slicks. The losi felt more stable. The 6d felt a little more nimble. Lap times where nearly identical. Both had stock setups with just the laydown. My take is the losi so far seemed like I could push it harder. Where if I was smooth the b6d seemed better. One thing I hate about both are the battery straps. Just a pain to remove the battery if you run the wires over the strap. Just thought I would post my opinion so far
After one day I changed my wiring to this
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Old 07-31-2016, 01:28 PM   #2156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boucher View Post
Glad I could help
I do appreciate the help I posted that before I saw the post of the link figured I was just bieng lazy so looked it up myself lol
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Old 07-31-2016, 01:55 PM   #2157
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Quote:
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After one day I changed my wiring to this
I suggest reading the soldiering thread in the electronics forum!
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Old 07-31-2016, 03:40 PM   #2158
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Anyone know the thickness of the J Concepts B6D chassis protector? Trying to decide between it and the thin Protek.
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Old 07-31-2016, 03:41 PM   #2159
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Quote:
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I suggest reading the soldiering thread in the electronics forum!
Im assuming you are talking about the transponder? That thing is 13 years old and the wires broke inside the case a long time ago. My soldering skills are just fine. Do i know you? Comments like that usually only come from friends.
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Old 07-31-2016, 04:08 PM   #2160
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Have they changed the size of the threads for the battery holder or could you use B5 ones on the battery hold down?
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