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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-30-2016, 11:17 AM   #2116
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Thank you all on the servo post
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Old 07-30-2016, 12:04 PM   #2117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schuie Driver View Post
Making my way through the build and everything has been going very well. Kudos to Associated for making a pretty killer manual for this car. One problem I have run into though is my steering knuckles are pretty tight inside the c blocks. Did any of you run into this and did you loosen them up with a 3mm reamer?
if you mean the steering ballcups that connects the servo horn to the steering assembly... Then.. Yes. I just used a pair of pliers and flatten the ball cups a bit until it loosen up a bit.
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Old 07-30-2016, 12:09 PM   #2118
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I'm pretty sure he just meant the steering knuckles.
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Old 07-30-2016, 12:17 PM   #2119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 30Tooth View Post
And you know why? The front suspension was collapsing more than the rear, now with the longer camber link the rear collapses as much as the front. It's like Usain Bolt having a sore knee so the medic would bang the good knee with a hammer so they're both hurting

That's the big problem with setup, which end is causing us trouble? Which way to go?

In the end, removing a shim (-1mm for a start) from the front bulkhead would be much better than a longer camber link. BTW, I've handled and analysed dozens of cars and most of them suffer from front suspension collapsing because of low RC height and generally too soft a spring too, that's why most tend to run too soft a spring and lower(or more roll) roll centers in the rear, compounding the issue.

Hope it helps!
I'll try this. Thank you.!
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Old 07-30-2016, 01:45 PM   #2120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pistol123 View Post
Thanks, makes sense - will have to go away and have a think about those comments and get my head around it and try a different set up.
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Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
I'll try this. Thank you.!
Please report back if you had success with the change in bulkhead shims.
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Old 07-30-2016, 01:53 PM   #2121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schuie Driver View Post
Making my way through the build and everything has been going very well. Kudos to Associated for making a pretty killer manual for this car. One problem I have run into though is my steering knuckles are pretty tight inside the c blocks. Did any of you run into this and did you loosen them up with a 3mm reamer?
Mine were tight until I tightened the screws down all the way.
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Old 07-30-2016, 03:59 PM   #2122
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Tried moving the shocks to the front, 1 in c block and half in d block. (a little more toe in and narrower) and the car is extremely easy to drive. When the shocks were on the back it almost felt like it made the car swing to much. Now it just feels planted
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Old 07-30-2016, 04:22 PM   #2123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
"Lengthening rear camber links ".. You get + camber. Shortening it... You get - camber.
You change camber link length for roll, not for camber.
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Old 07-30-2016, 06:40 PM   #2124
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DG Designs what type of surface were you running on?
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Old 07-30-2016, 07:32 PM   #2125
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http://www.redrc.net/2016/07/schelle...ium-rear-hubs/

schelle updated the hubs to use with the kit inserts. I was thinking AE would update theirs too eventually.
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Old 07-30-2016, 07:42 PM   #2126
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DG Designs what type of surface were you running on?
Clay fairly high bite today. Sdrc. Kind of made me feel good that one of the fast kids asked if I had ever tried them in the back and that my car looked good. Finished 2nd in the main in my first race in about a year. I was always mid to back of the pack sportsman so 2nd is really good for me. I had fast lap as well. I lowered the front fill center just a little a picked up some steering in the 2nd heat and main and that took my fast lap from 19.8 to 19.2
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Old 07-30-2016, 07:54 PM   #2127
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Well, finally got the electronics in. Having trouble binding the receiver to the transmitter, but I'll tackle that tomorrow.
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Old 07-30-2016, 08:40 PM   #2128
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Anybody actually racing outdoors with the B6D? The car is awesome but the shock towers are not well suited for dirt. We've already broken a front and rear which is something that never happened once on the B5M. I hope they make plastic versions soon. So far that's my only gripe.
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Old 07-30-2016, 08:47 PM   #2129
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So I just got done racing on a low/med bite track with my b6 laydown. I was the only one to even have a laydown car in the facility. I was very close on fastest lap times. I went to this race thinking my car was going to be undrivable and it completely exceeded my expectations. This laydown car can be successful on a low bite surface with the correct setup.
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Old 07-30-2016, 09:05 PM   #2130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QDRHRSE View Post
Anybody actually racing outdoors with the B6D? The car is awesome but the shock towers are not well suited for dirt. We've already broken a front and rear which is something that never happened once on the B5M. I hope they make plastic versions soon. So far that's my only gripe.
Plastic option towers would be cool.
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