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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-25-2016, 12:46 PM   #1936
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Thats cool. are you going to market?
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Old 07-25-2016, 01:55 PM   #1937
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Me? No.

However, search my name in the classifieds for other B6 lightweight stuff.
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Old 07-25-2016, 02:19 PM   #1938
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Anyone know the relative "thickness" of the various B6 wheels? I'm trying to adapt some wheels for another Tamiya buggy project.

I'm not sure of the term, but I'm basically talking about the thickness of the wheel where the stub axle goes through -- I noticed AE wheels are thinnish and thus allow more of the wheel nut to thread onto the axle, while DE Racing wheels are thicker and AKA wheels are super thick (2.4") and have barely any threads showing after mounting.

Anyone know if the Jconcepts or even some of the other manufacturers (TLR, Kyosho, etc.) use thinner wheels?
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Old 07-25-2016, 03:50 PM   #1939
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What is a good double sided tape to get? I used the strip of AE supplied tape from my recent build of a B44.3 kit for mounting electronics in the B44.3 with Schelle Chassis and B5M FL and the electronics were basically coming off the chassis before racing.


My B6 has the same stuff.


Want something that will let you peel away but strong hold too. 3M? Something I can get like at Home Depot or Lowes?
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Old 07-25-2016, 04:05 PM   #1940
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Originally Posted by 190mph View Post
What is a good double sided tape to get? I used the strip of AE supplied tape from my recent build of a B44.3 kit for mounting electronics in the B44.3 with Schelle Chassis and B5M FL and the electronics were basically coming off the chassis before racing.


My B6 has the same stuff.


Want something that will let you peel away but strong hold too. 3M? Something I can get like at Home Depot or Lowes?
I use 3mm clear VHB mounting tape for my electronics (receiver/esc) and I use the 3m 30 lbs black for fans, switches and transponders.


no mater what you use, should clean both surfaces and avoid touch the tape with your finger tips, as the oils/dirt on your hands will lessen the effect of the tape
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Old 07-25-2016, 04:09 PM   #1941
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What is a good double sided tape to get? I used the strip of AE supplied tape from my recent build of a B44.3 kit for mounting electronics in the B44.3 with Schelle Chassis and B5M FL and the electronics were basically coming off the chassis before racing.


My B6 has the same stuff.


Want something that will let you peel away but strong hold too. 3M? Something I can get like at Home Depot or Lowes?
http://www.truevalue.com//catalog/pr...FUuSfgodu-gM3A
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Old 07-25-2016, 04:20 PM   #1942
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I cleaned the chassis and bottom of the item to mount with AC Delco Non-Chlorinated Brake Cleaner first, then Rubbing Alcohol 70%. Just these chassis' have a finish on them too with the Anodizing jobs that make them either super smooth (Schelle) or slippery like the way the chassis are fine sand blasted or shot peened (Associated) like before anodizing.


On Carbon touring car chassis it sticks better.


Thanks for the suggestions.
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Old 07-25-2016, 04:24 PM   #1943
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 190mph View Post
I cleaned the chassis and bottom of the item to mount with AC Delco Non-Chlorinated Brake Cleaner first, then Rubbing Alcohol 70%. Just these chassis' have a finish on them too with the Anodizing jobs that make them either super smooth (Schelle) or slippery like the way the chassis are fine sand blasted or shot peened (Associated) like before anodizing.


On Carbon touring car chassis it sticks better.


Thanks for the suggestions.
the stuff I mension works good, but if you do as I said, then use a heat gun to warm the tape and the chassis, it work even better as it opens the pours and makes it more pliable. I only use rubbing alcohol to clean the surfaces, no other chemicals.
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Old 07-25-2016, 04:26 PM   #1944
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Oh and I do have this Apex Clear tape I bought from them on ebay and I am not sure on this as it is not tacky whatsoever on the surface and mounting electronics completely did not work on the carbon chassis. It is super sticky on the edge when it is sitting in the zip lock bag or on its side on the kitchen counter or something.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apex-RC-Prod...wAAOSwKrhVce5j
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Old 07-25-2016, 04:56 PM   #1945
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it is similar to the 3m clear. clean both surfaces with alcohol, apply the tape to the esc/receiver (make sure you dont touch the stickypart with your fingers. gently peal off the backing with an xacto....not your fingers. then use a heat gun to warm the tape and the spot you wish to stick it. press it down firmly and hold it for 30 seconds. then let it cure over night. I find that many of these tapes require an over night cure to get the most out of them. when ever I try to apply tape in a dusty environment, I find it is vastly less effective. you want everything as clean as you can. even your hands, in case you touch it. I use the alcohol to clean my fingers also.
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Old 07-25-2016, 05:55 PM   #1946
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I use this 3M tape below. I've found the "outdoor" stuff is ridiculously strong and hard to remove. This type sticks really well but also peels off when you need it too. I use it for all kinds of stuff and the 16' roll lasts forever.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-03614-Scot...e+double+sided
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Old 07-25-2016, 07:36 PM   #1947
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My son had his first race day with his new B6 yesterday. I have to say he turned much better laps with his old B5m. I know this is par for the course on a brand new car and we worked on the b5m setup for a long time but one this that is bugging me is the ride height. On our indoor carpet track most run 17mm F/R ride height. I can barely get the B6 to 18mm. The main symptom with higher RH is traction rolling. Im sure I can tune it out with other adjustments like maybe roll center or maybe the sway bars will help once they ship.

He was a disappointed because his old B5m we sold was hooked up for the new owner.
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Old 07-25-2016, 07:43 PM   #1948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAW View Post
My son had his first race day with his new B6 yesterday. I have to say he turned much better laps with his old B5m. I know this is par for the course on a brand new car and we worked on the b5m setup for a long time but one this that is bugging me is the ride height. On our indoor carpet track most run 17mm F/R ride height. I can barely get the B6 to 18mm. The main symptom with higher RH is traction rolling. Im sure I can tune it out with other adjustments like maybe roll center or maybe the sway bars will help once they ship.

He was a disappointed because his old B5m we sold was hooked up for the new owner.
Run the shorter spring cups to lower the car more.
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Old 07-25-2016, 07:49 PM   #1949
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I have the 0 offset cups in the rear and the 5 in the front, I'm not sure the 0 will work in the front without binding against the arm.
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Old 07-25-2016, 08:01 PM   #1950
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAW View Post
My son had his first race day with his new B6 yesterday. I have to say he turned much better laps with his old B5m. I know this is par for the course on a brand new car and we worked on the b5m setup for a long time but one this that is bugging me is the ride height. On our indoor carpet track most run 17mm F/R ride height. I can barely get the B6 to 18mm. The main symptom with higher RH is traction rolling. Im sure I can tune it out with other adjustments like maybe roll center or maybe the sway bars will help once they ship.

He was a disappointed because his old B5m we sold was hooked up for the new owner.

Did you bleed the shocks for zero rebound? Also is the +3 hub instert down? I have no problems getting to 16mm on my b6. If you can't figure it out I'll be more then glad to give it a good look over at the next race. Also follow Ryan cavs eos setup for baseline. http://site.petitrc.com/setup/associ...gring20160429/
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