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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-22-2016, 10:42 AM   #1861
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Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
Technical this or that, this language that language (I say Google terms you don't understand)..."racist", give me a break

At the end of the day, just ask yourself. "What would Wildcherry say?"

The answer...Nobody knows, most people can't read "smoke"..except maybe Cheech and Chong.




LOLOLOLOLO, this is Tooo funny

What Would WildCherry say!!!
Seriously laughed hard,, THANKS
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Old 07-22-2016, 11:03 AM   #1862
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For high bite clay.... Gear dif or Ball dif?
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Old 07-22-2016, 11:08 AM   #1863
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
Technical this or that, this language that language (I say Google terms you don't understand)..."racist", give me a break

At the end of the day, just ask yourself. "What would Wildcherry say?"

The answer...Nobody knows, most people can't read "smoke"..except maybe Cheech and Chong.

PTHTHTH!!


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Originally Posted by wiggindude6969 View Post
For high bite clay.... Gear dif or Ball dif?
Either. Do you prefer easy and quick access to fine adjustments, or do you prefer ease of maintenance?

My rule of thumb is usually the bumpier the track, the more you lean towards a ball diff. The smoother the track, the more you lean towards a gear diff. We have guys that run both, and honestly, they do equally well.
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Old 07-22-2016, 11:16 AM   #1864
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I run stock. i was told to take one of the pins out and 2 gears... ? what advantage is this and will it cause the diff to ear premature? can it break more easily?
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Old 07-22-2016, 11:22 AM   #1865
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It will make the diff lighter,
It will also lesson the effect of centrifugal sling of viscous fluid...
Meaning the faster the diff spins , the more fluid spins into the gears,, the faster the diff spins the more the fluid works to inhibit the gears..
Removing a set of gear will lesson this effect... I feel it makes it through sweeper way better this way..
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Old 07-22-2016, 11:24 AM   #1866
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I run stock. i was told to take one of the pins out and 2 gears... ? what advantage is this and will it cause the diff to ear premature? can it break more easily?
IMO, for Stock, Ball diff. For the sole reason of rotating mass. But I don't know what a gear diff weighs with 2 spider gears and a pin removed. And you still have to fill that void with more fluid, again I don't know the weight difference between that and a ball diff.
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Old 07-22-2016, 11:38 AM   #1867
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IMO, for Stock, Ball diff. For the sole reason of rotating mass. But I don't know what a gear diff weighs with 2 spider gears and a pin removed. And you still have to fill that void with more fluid, again I don't know the weight difference between that and a ball diff.
They're close in weight stock for stock.

However, my ball diffs are around 14 grams, and there's NO way a gear diff can get that low.
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Old 07-22-2016, 11:40 AM   #1868
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Thanks
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Old 07-22-2016, 11:42 AM   #1869
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At the end of the day, just ask yourself. "What would Wildcherry say?
oh boy
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Old 07-22-2016, 12:52 PM   #1870
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They're close in weight stock for stock.
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Old 07-22-2016, 12:52 PM   #1871
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slick1 View Post
It will make the diff lighter,
It will also lesson the effect of centrifugal sling of viscous fluid...
Meaning the faster the diff spins , the more fluid spins into the gears,, the faster the diff spins the more the fluid works to inhibit the gears..
Removing a set of gear will lesson this effect... I feel it makes it through sweeper way better this way..
Fluid dynamics; it makes our banter about weight seem like child's play. LOL!!
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Old 07-22-2016, 01:59 PM   #1872
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I say go ball diff unless on carpet then go gear diff.
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Old 07-22-2016, 03:03 PM   #1873
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Gear diff is working great on high bite indoor in SoCal. We're running slicks to give an idea of grip.

Most of us bought the B6 and the full arms are working better than flats too
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Old 07-22-2016, 03:15 PM   #1874
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My rule of thumb is treads = ball diff. Slicks = gear diff if the traction is super high and consistently super high.

For me it seems like there is something in the difference of force required to get a gear vs ball diff moving, and how fast it seems to lock up or stop moving. Still don't quite have my head wrapped around the physics of it all so its more of a theory ive been pondering about why ball works better in low traction and gear works better in high.
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Old 07-22-2016, 06:22 PM   #1875
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Anyone bending the rear ball stud mount?

I had my car on the track for the first time today taking some easy laps and doing some tuning, nothing crazy, no hard crashes, no bigger than average jumps. I noticed the LR wheel leaning in and found the left side of the ball stud mount bent up about an 1/8 of an inch.

No big deal....bought another one and swapped it out real quick, fifteen laps later the new one is bent too. Checked another guys car and his was bent, we were able to straighten them out.....looks like that mount is gonna need to be thicker.

Anyone else run into this yet?
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