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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-21-2016, 11:12 AM
  #1816  
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Originally Posted by machfever
Question for the two recent rear tower breakage, did you sand the edges and seal with CA?
Yes.

I think gluing may have helped more years ago when CF manufacutring was pretty bad. CF laminate construction is much better with better resins, so I question if gluing does much more than cosmetic protection.

Mine cracked through the screw hole weak point like others I've seen.
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Old 07-21-2016, 11:18 AM
  #1817  
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No shocked.

Need to figure out some sort of lexan cover for the shock towers. Should help them scrub instead of dig in.
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Old 07-21-2016, 11:36 AM
  #1818  
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Originally Posted by Socket
No shocked.

Need to figure out some sort of lexan cover for the shock towers. Should help them scrub instead of dig in.
Or just make a plastic rear tower.
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Old 07-21-2016, 11:43 AM
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The answer is stronger carbon. Diggity Designs will have some soon I'm sure.
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Old 07-21-2016, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by rcgerber


thanks
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Old 07-21-2016, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Sean B.
The answer is stronger carbon. Diggity Designs will have some soon I'm sure.
I think JC said they'd have a thicker tower out.
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Old 07-21-2016, 12:04 PM
  #1822  
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Originally Posted by Socket
I think JC said they'd have a thicker tower out.


I was just looking at the Raw Speed tower that is 1mm taller above the screw holes. My concern with that it will be even more likely to catch the dirt and break??
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Old 07-21-2016, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Socket
Front of arms takes weight off the rear axle. Rear of arms puts more weight on the rear axle.
It wouldn't hurt to reference the impact to the front wheels as well. I always look at it as shocks on the front of the arm share the shock weight with the front wheels (add weight to the front wheels, reduce the shock weight on the rear wheel), while shocks to the rear of the arm have the rear wheel share the full burden of the shock, and remove weight from the front.

Rear of arm = More weight transfer to rear on acceleration/more forward traction/less on power steering

Front of arm = Less weight transfer to rear on acceleration/less forward traction/more on power steering
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Old 07-21-2016, 12:26 PM
  #1824  
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Since people are talking front/rear shocks, I actually looked closely at the side by side overhead comparison of the B6D and B6. I didn't realize how far back the rear mount shocks/B6D pushes the wing back!

http://www.rccaraction.com/wp-conten...s-Compare2.jpg


Also, I wonder if it'd help to round some of those CF corners a little bit if/when everyone is sealing their towers?
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Old 07-21-2016, 12:46 PM
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I've never sanded the edges of the carbon shock towers on my b44.2 and never broke a shock tower despite some spectacular crashes, so i didn't sand the b6 towers either. I know JC is making them but to my knowledge they are not out yet.
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Old 07-21-2016, 12:51 PM
  #1826  
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Originally Posted by goehm
It wouldn't hurt to reference the impact to the front wheels as well. I always look at it as shocks on the front of the arm share the shock weight with the front wheels (add weight to the front wheels, reduce the shock weight on the rear wheel), while shocks to the rear of the arm have the rear wheel share the full burden of the shock, and remove weight from the front.

Rear of arm = More weight transfer to rear on acceleration/more forward traction/less on power steering

Front of arm = Less weight transfer to rear on acceleration/less forward traction/more on power steering
Quite a poor explanation, sorry. Just changes static weight distribution - that's it.
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Old 07-21-2016, 01:36 PM
  #1827  
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Originally Posted by AntH3000
Quite a poor explanation, sorry. Just changes static weight distribution - that's it.
You added nothing. Please, then, explain the effect of changing the static weight distributions.

Few care what it IS (which is what you provided), most care what it DOES (which is what I was trying to explain).

Edit: What I'm getting at is while it is changing the weight distribution, it isn't weight between the wheelbases which is pretty straight forward. That is simple static weight distribution. In this case one of the configurations has weight being put BEHIND the axle.
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Old 07-21-2016, 01:48 PM
  #1828  
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You could just double up the shock tower if it continues to be a problem until a better one hits the market.
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Old 07-21-2016, 02:21 PM
  #1829  
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Originally Posted by Finalist
Yes.

I think gluing may have helped more years ago when CF manufacutring was pretty bad. CF laminate construction is much better with better resins, so I question if gluing does much more than cosmetic protection.

Mine cracked through the screw hole weak point like others I've seen.
I put washers on the button head. to spread the load


Last edited by Wildcat1971; 07-21-2016 at 04:58 PM.
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Old 07-21-2016, 04:24 PM
  #1830  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
I put washers on the button head. to spread the load
That might be a really good idea. It makes a ton of sense to help slread the load there. Thanks
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