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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-19-2016, 02:26 PM   #1756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
I would start with shocks in the rear....make sure to get the brass C mount too, it is probably a good idea to pick up the heavier brass c mount as well. I know some guys were running the 12g version and still adding weight next to it. Hartson was running shocks in front over the weekend but....I doubt any of us are at that level.
Is this because there is too much steering?

We club race tomorrow night at LRH, and I have the rear shocks set up on the front of the arm currently. Really won't have much time to practice with it before racing starts. Just running 17.5 Blinky, wonder if I should change them to the back. Don't have any weights either except for battery weights (for now). Before paint I was around 1485 grams last night I think with a small shorty in there.
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Old 07-19-2016, 02:27 PM   #1757
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Shocks on the front of the rear arm means more rotation in the corners.
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Old 07-19-2016, 02:27 PM   #1758
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 40yoCaliRacer View Post
Is this because there is too much steering?

We club race tomorrow night at LRH, and I have the rear shocks set up on the front of the arm currently. Really won't have much time to practice with it before racing starts. Just running 17.5 Blinky, wonder if I should change them to the back. Don't have any weights either except for battery weights (for now). Before paint I was around 1485 grams last night I think with a small shorty in there.
Because of the lack of weight over the rear end. I'd move them to behind the arms.
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Old 07-19-2016, 04:56 PM   #1759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 View Post
what are your corner weight numbers?
I dont mind sharing

B6D with AE Ti screws and Brass c.
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Old 07-19-2016, 05:05 PM   #1760
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Quote:
Originally Posted by man1ac View Post
For our tracks the 35/30 setup is a good starting point for any car (B5 and B5m so far)...
How much reduced weight we are talking about compared to a B5m FL (and what does it mean?)

Your suggestions seems way way more softer than what I plan to do and kinda know....
My B6 is much lighter than my B5MFL that I setup for outdoors only. The b5 had a 4 gear and 25g brass C, a heavier alum front bulkhead. Plus the b6 weighs an easy 25-30? Less out of the kit.
A lighter car will always need a lighter shock package. The b6 designs makes way more grip front and rear though!
The 1 outdoor track I ran has zero clay in it. It's very soft black dirt. Which means you need mechanical grip and a heavier car typically runs better... as well as a 4 gear tranny.

I'd say start with what you know but keep what ive said in mind and maybe try it!
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Old 07-19-2016, 05:09 PM   #1761
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Are the spacers for the b5m rear axle the same spacers for the b5m gear diff AND MIP b5m pucks diff in the b6?

http://miponline.com/store/mip16085.html

https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-as...c91605/p462723

Are these the same thing, material aside?
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Old 07-19-2016, 05:14 PM   #1762
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Yes.
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Old 07-19-2016, 06:04 PM   #1763
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For those of us without machining equipment, does anyone offer cut idlers yet?
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Old 07-19-2016, 06:04 PM   #1764
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Is Associated coming out with slim front wheels for carpet?
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Old 07-19-2016, 07:27 PM   #1765
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Is Associated coming out with slim front wheels for carpet?
who knows? but jconcepts already did
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Old 07-19-2016, 07:29 PM   #1766
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For those of us without machining equipment, does anyone offer cut idlers yet?
I have done a few sets, and could be enticed to do a few more.
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Old 07-19-2016, 07:29 PM   #1767
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Quote:
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Is Associated coming out with slim front wheels for carpet?
I just ordered the slim proline ones for my b6
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Old 07-19-2016, 07:52 PM   #1768
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Default B6 - rear grip

I'm stunned on how much rear grip the chassis with the laydown generates, never expected it.
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Old 07-19-2016, 09:16 PM   #1769
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I'm in the process of assembling the rear end and I cannot seem to find the caster hat bushings top 1mm and bottom 2mm. I bet it's in bag 8 but there is no bag 8? Anybody where which bag it's in ?
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Old 07-19-2016, 10:09 PM   #1770
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I need a starting point for Blinky 13.5
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