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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-18-2016, 08:29 PM   #1696
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Originally Posted by liljohn1064 View Post
The key is wrong. Long Dash is A, Solid line is C. The A is already cut in the picture.
I'm going to have to look closer at the cut lines. With the lay down I get a little rub from the spur gear on the body if the body is mounted a hair too far forward.
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Old 07-18-2016, 08:50 PM   #1697
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Anyone know where I can find a titanium screw kit. Everyone seems to be out of stock. Besides Lunsford $109 is to rich for my blood.
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Old 07-18-2016, 09:04 PM   #1698
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The key is wrong. Long Dash is A, Solid line is C. The A is already cut in the picture..
thank you. i agree the manual has A and C reversed in the key. when i was cutting the body, i looked at the description, matched it up to the key and found it in the diagram, and made the (wrong) cut. how AE doesn't agree is beyond me. they have yet to respond to my followup email.

edit, theyve responded and are sending me a replacement body. not terrible.

Last edited by shdwboxn; 07-22-2016 at 12:34 AM.
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Old 07-18-2016, 09:22 PM   #1699
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bought the B6 today....this should be interesting.... will take my time building it.
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Old 07-18-2016, 09:57 PM   #1700
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Anyone know where I can find a titanium screw kit. Everyone seems to be out of stock. Besides Lunsford $109 is to rich for my blood.
http://www.hobbyaction.net/collectio...-hex-screw-set
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Old 07-18-2016, 11:50 PM   #1701
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Who has tried the tall rear tower?
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Old 07-19-2016, 04:55 AM   #1702
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Got a race meet on the B6D, we run on loose dirt car has tons of rear grip with kit setup, had a fair bit of understeer so took the 2mm washer away on the ackerman and moved the battery foward. Got more steer with similar rear grip. Very easy to drive looking toward to racing it again.

Obligatory photos. Weight is 1530g as seen here.



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Old 07-19-2016, 05:28 AM   #1703
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Any comparison to a B5M or a B5R? What kind of car do you normally run? Pics of the track please
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Old 07-19-2016, 05:51 AM   #1704
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Thanks just placed my order. Now I just have to wait for it to come in so I can start putting my kit together.
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Old 07-19-2016, 05:57 AM   #1705
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Any comparison to a B5M or a B5R? What kind of car do you normally run? Pics of the track please
In my eyes there is no comparison. I can't think of one thing the b5m did better than the b6, seriously.
The b5r? Not even close. I've raced on some of the lowest grip dirt there is. Rear motor is a thing of the past. If you're not going faster with a mid car in those conditions you're not tuning correctly.

The thing that surprised me most is how good the b6 is right out of the box!
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Old 07-19-2016, 06:02 AM   #1706
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Did someone tried the 4 weight scale thing ?
I feel like the rear right is sightly heavier than rear left end. And seen Kinwald put some weight near the C mount too
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Old 07-19-2016, 06:56 AM   #1707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pittster View Post
Got a race meet on the B6D, we run on loose dirt car has tons of rear grip with kit setup, had a fair bit of understeer so took the 2mm washer away on the ackerman and moved the battery foward. Got more steer with similar rear grip. Very easy to drive looking toward to racing it again.

Obligatory photos. Weight is 1530g as seen here.



Nice looking set-up you got there. Where did you get that front shock tower protector? I'd hate to scratch up mine on it's first race.
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Old 07-19-2016, 07:02 AM   #1708
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Idler shaft question
B5's is 91011
B6's is 91132
in the parts compatibility the 91011 does not show it works on the B6 but the 91132 shows it works on the B6's and B5's.

Is there any reason the 91011 won't work on the B6?

differences other than 1 is aluminum and the other is not?
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Old 07-19-2016, 07:39 AM   #1709
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Any comparison to a B5M or a B5R? What kind of car do you normally run? Pics of the track please
The B5M did a weird "pivot" type move in the corners. The B6/B6D doesn't do this, instead it flows through the corner. Is it faster? Slightly, yes. Is it easier to drive? YES.
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Old 07-19-2016, 07:39 AM   #1710
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Did someone tried the 4 weight scale thing ?
I feel like the rear right is sightly heavier than rear left end. And seen Kinwald put some weight near the C mount too
I have. Yes. It's why you see the pro's ESC's on the far right side of the front, to help offset the motor weight.
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