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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Quote:
Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-16-2016, 04:39 PM   #1621
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How do you check toe in and toe out on the front or check rear toe..You eye ball it
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Old 07-16-2016, 05:06 PM   #1622
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How do you check toe in and toe out on the front or check rear toe..You eye ball it
You never need to check rear toe. Front I eyeball and then get it all setup with a set of calipers. Camber is easy, $5 aver gauge, done.

In 23 + years never needed or wanted a setup station, still don't know one person that runs off-road that uses one.
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Old 07-16-2016, 05:36 PM   #1623
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Originally Posted by GeorgePravata View Post
How do you check toe in and toe out on the front or check rear toe..You eye ball it
I check toe with a camber guage. Turn the car on and put both front tires one the edge of a table. Then put the camber guage on the inside of the wheel and the table. This method is very accurate, never trust eyeballing it.
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Old 07-16-2016, 06:49 PM   #1624
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I just need some one to check the rear toe thats all I'm looking for KIT set up 2.5* toe and 1* anti sq. I can't get that for nothing I have the C block and the alum. D block I had to walk away from it for a while needed a break
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Old 07-16-2016, 06:55 PM   #1625
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCBuddha View Post
can someone post a picture of the exotek servo horn on their car?
I have zero issues using the Exotek servo Horn.
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Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-20160716_204010_resized.jpg   Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread-20160716_204141_resized.jpg  
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Old 07-16-2016, 07:12 PM   #1626
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I have zero issues using the Exotek servo Horn.
Thanks! I added the horns back to the front page.
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Old 07-16-2016, 08:19 PM   #1627
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Looking to try out carpet off-road for the first time. If guys at the track are running Proline pinpoints and wedges is it safe to say Schumacher Staggers and Mini Pins will work?
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Old 07-16-2016, 08:22 PM   #1628
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Excuse the dumb question, but can I use electrical tape to tie the 3 motor wires together for neatness instead of shrink wrap? Or is the heat through the insulated wires going to melt the tape? This is on 17.5...
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Old 07-16-2016, 08:38 PM   #1629
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it's probably in here somewhere but I couldn't find it sorry

Where do you put the 1mm shims to be able to run the MIP pucks on B6/b6d ?

Thanks
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Old 07-16-2016, 08:42 PM   #1630
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Here are the shims but no pic of where the go.
http://us1.campaign-archive2.com/?u=85cdb852b7a2a0f636574b1ce&id=400fff7b1c

Last edited by elex300; 07-16-2016 at 08:59 PM.
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Old 07-16-2016, 08:48 PM   #1631
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http://miponline.com/store/mip16085

That's the link to mip's online store. It's a shim kit. Cost is $9.00
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Old 07-16-2016, 08:49 PM   #1632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsair View Post
Excuse the dumb question, but can I use electrical tape to tie the 3 motor wires together for neatness instead of shrink wrap? Or is the heat through the insulated wires going to melt the tape? This is on 17.5...
Electric tape will be fine. Just might not look as neat.
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Old 07-16-2016, 08:58 PM   #1633
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCBuddha View Post
can someone post a picture of the exotek servo horn on their car?
Gimme an hour or so, I picked one up today
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Old 07-16-2016, 09:11 PM   #1634
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Brown View Post
Electric tape will be fine. Just might not look as neat.
Cool, thanks for the info!

B6 is crazy... completely stock (except for slipper eliminator) with full size shorty, full size servo, big receiver (RX-462), and a temp sensor, voltage sensor... weighs in at 1508.
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Old 07-16-2016, 09:56 PM   #1635
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elex300 View Post
Here are the shims but no pic of where the go.
http://us1.campaign-archive2.com/?u=...&id=400fff7b1c
Large shims go inside the gearbox case on the outdrives, against the bearing, I'm guessing the smalls one go on the end of the dog bones / axel inside the rear hub. The MIP B5 ball diff is about 4 mm narrower than the B6 ball diff. The B6 also has 2mm shims for the gear diff that you can use with the MIP unit. Associated also has a diff shim part # 1733, but they are really thin, might work out on the hub side.

Just built my B6 with B5 MIP bimetal diff, spacers from the gear diff, no spacers on the hub side yet. I think it's going to be OK, at full droop the flats on the puck are fully inside the outdrives. Hobby shop was out of PN 1733 so I will add when they come in.
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