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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 07-16-2016, 08:34 AM   #1591
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I'm not too keen on the way the battery strap attaches, looks like we need a nut driver to remove the battery.
The larger b5m battery nuts also fit
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Old 07-16-2016, 08:35 AM   #1592
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On the front wings...do they just mount to the front shock studs, or is there a mount that needs to be added? I'm trying to figure out if I really need a front wing or not.
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Old 07-16-2016, 09:11 AM   #1593
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check out tuning haus at tqrcracing.com....



edit: not sure if it will interfere with the body
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Old 07-16-2016, 09:33 AM   #1594
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I'm not too keen on the way the battery strap attaches, looks like we need a nut driver to remove the battery.
It's a massive upgrade over taping your battery in. IF you don't already have a 7mm nut driver, then you have other problems.
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Old 07-16-2016, 09:55 AM   #1595
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i had them on my car but it looks like they will rub the paint off on the body.


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Originally Posted by S2kDave View Post
The larger b5m battery nuts also fit
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Old 07-16-2016, 09:57 AM   #1596
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Ugh... Tower has had my order listed as "Invoiced - Processing in Warehouse" for 4 days now...

They charged my paypal so I'm dying for this kit to get to me already....
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Old 07-16-2016, 10:02 AM   #1597
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Originally Posted by BIGSKI15 View Post
i had them on my car but it looks like they will rub the paint off on the body.
I'm running the stock nuts myself. Not a big deal to me to use a driver to swap batteries. Plus less weight 😎
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Old 07-16-2016, 11:23 AM   #1598
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I thought I'd post pics of my ride with wiring for you. I kept the blue anodized turnbuckles since my paint job has a lot of blue, however I did use my B5M blacked out shock accessories.

I started with the Kody Numedahl setup and made a couple tweaks to suit stock racing at OCRC a little more. I ran Expert Stock and qualified 2nd and finished 3rd in the A-main. A few more tweaks and it'll be even faster. Great car!

Build notes: Mostly titanium scews, a few stainless screws where I didn't have ti for the right size, titanium turnbuckles, full size shorty battery, standard stock body, AKA pinstripe front and Crosslink rears (clay), Exotek slipper eliminator, 32/69 gearing = 1503g total racing weight.




Last edited by tropmonky; 07-16-2016 at 11:41 AM.
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Old 07-16-2016, 11:32 AM   #1599
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Nice setup. How's that motor at ocrc btw and gearing? Was thinking of trying one.


QUOTE=tropmonky;14603754]I thought I'd post pics of my ride with wiring for you. I kept the blue anodized turnbuckles since my paint job has a lot of blue, however I did use my B5M blacked out shock accessories.

I started with the Kody Numedahl setup and made a couple tweaks to suit stock racing at OCRC a little more. I ran Expert Stock and qualified 2nd and finished 3rd in the A-main. A few more tweaks and it'll be even faster. Great car!

Build notes: Mostly titanium scews, a few stainless screws where I didn't have ti for the right size, titanium turnbuckles, full size shorty battery, standard stock body, AKA pinstripe front and Crosslink rears (clay)= 1503g total racing weight.



[/QUOTE]

Last edited by JAE; 07-16-2016 at 11:45 AM.
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Old 07-16-2016, 11:40 AM   #1600
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@JAE I love the 24K's. I have 3 now: 17.5t in my Losi 22 3.0 with Exotek laydown, 13.5t in my Losi 22-4 (new class that's starting to get big at OCRC, Very fun!)

For gearing I'm running 32/69. Long straightaway and I'm still able to pop up onto a step-up from taking a inside line with zero run-up to it.

My current setup differences from Kody's setup are:
1:Flipped the front axle height (fat spacer on the bottom) and went white spring in the rear. gives much more off power steering which is more useful for stock.
2: Rear-end is 2.5toe x 1 anti-squat. I don't feel that stock cars at OCRC need 3 degrees of rear toe since we aren't putting down as much power. This frees up the butt to follow the front around sweepers and corners a little more. Also happens to be the same as I was running on my Losi 22 3.0 with Exotek laydown that got me placed qualified 4th overall at the past OCRC stock nats.
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Old 07-16-2016, 11:47 AM   #1601
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Cool - I'll,try it thx! Do you gear up a tooth or two. Thought most were 69/30 there. Thx for the tip on rear toe

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Originally Posted by tropmonky View Post
@JAE I love the 24K's. I have 3 now: 17.5t in my Losi 22 3.0 with Exotek laydown, 13.5t in my Losi 22-4 (new class that's starting to get big at OCRC, Very fun!)

For gearing I'm running 32/69. Long straightaway and I'm still able to pop up onto a step-up from taking a inside line with zero run-up to it.

My current setup differences from Kody's setup are:
1:Flipped the front axle height (fat spacer on the bottom) and went white spring in the rear. gives much more off power steering which is more useful for stock.
2: Rear-end is 2.5toe x 1 anti-squat. I don't feel that stock cars at OCRC need 3 degrees of rear toe since we aren't putting down as much power. This frees up the butt to follow the front around sweepers and corners a little more. Also happens to be the same as I was running on my Losi 22 3.0 with Exotek laydown that got me placed qualified 4th overall at the past OCRC stock nats.
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Old 07-16-2016, 11:56 AM   #1602
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
It's a massive upgrade over taping your battery in. IF you don't already have a 7mm nut driver, then you have other problems.
his point was that if you weren't taping your battery in (like most people don't), then having to use a nut driver is a step backwards. with the thumb screws, you don't have to have a driver handy and you can tighten/loosen them both at the same time.

looks like we'll have to turn to the aftermarket to address this.
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Old 07-16-2016, 12:00 PM   #1603
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Socket View Post
It's a massive upgrade over taping your battery in. IF you don't already have a 7mm nut driver, then you have other problems.
Yeah dude I have a 7mm nut driver. It's just a PITA to have to use a tool to remove the battery.
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Old 07-16-2016, 12:23 PM   #1604
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Originally Posted by BruceR. View Post
On the front wings...do they just mount to the front shock studs, or is there a mount that needs to be added? I'm trying to figure out if I really need a front wing or not.
some wings mount directly to the tower and others have a mount that goes on the tower and the wing mounts to it. The lower mounting one looks cool, not sure how much it helps
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Old 07-16-2016, 12:34 PM   #1605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAW View Post
Yeah dude I have a 7mm nut driver. It's just a PITA to have to use a tool to remove the battery.
Well throw a thumb screw on there problem solved
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