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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Team Associated B6 & B6D thread
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

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Originally Posted by kdub View Post
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 04-30-2016, 12:51 PM   #136
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B6 wins at EOS debut!! All the new B6's did great with the drivers!
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Old 04-30-2016, 01:04 PM   #137
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B6 wins at EOS debut!! All the new B6's did great with the drivers!
uh, well...1st and 3rd? Guess the car works.
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Old 04-30-2016, 01:37 PM   #138
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Thumbs up Which car to get ?????

My first inclination is that racing 17.5 stock on clay tracks in the I want the B6D but for some reason I would like to try the B6 with the lay down gear box. It sounds like the weight distribution in the B6D is better suited for most clay tracks in the lower 48. Thoughts? Comments? Insults lol?
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Old 04-30-2016, 01:44 PM   #139
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Just pre-ordered my B6 for astro racing, and My b5m lite/champion edition is dialed in, and I'm still convinced this car is worth the $270 I just spent to have it all new. Guys are spending $100 on lay down transmisssions and $35 for a gear diff, which I have yet to do but was planning to until this came into existence!!! This is a no brainer.
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Old 04-30-2016, 02:05 PM   #140
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My first inclination is that racing 17.5 stock on clay tracks in the I want the B6D but for some reason I would like to try the B6 with the lay down gear box. It sounds like the weight distribution in the B6D is better suited for most clay tracks in the lower 48. Thoughts? Comments? Insults lol?
Sounds like some guys in your position are buying the B6D and also ordering the parts to swap in the laydown trans. That way you can try both.
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Old 04-30-2016, 03:55 PM   #141
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Probably best to print out both manuals when available and go through the steps and find the differences from the B6D to B6 turf edition and spreadsheet the costs. It could turn out 75% the cost of the kit you never know.


I went through that in 2 upgrade scenarios for a B44.2 to B44.3 and NIB RC8B buggy to go to RC8.2 and both times was close to a cost of a kit. Although this is different, I could see enough to buy to make you think and just buy 2 kits.
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Old 04-30-2016, 04:16 PM   #142
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Finally a new Associated car.I love Associated and have not liked there buggys ever since the b4.2 and the centro c4.2.Hope this b6d will steer😜
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Old 04-30-2016, 04:17 PM   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnn27 View Post
My first inclination is that racing 17.5 stock on clay tracks in the I want the B6D but for some reason I would like to try the B6 with the lay down gear box. It sounds like the weight distribution in the B6D is better suited for most clay tracks in the lower 48. Thoughts? Comments? Insults lol?
Is pretty simple; if traction roll is a major issue run the 6. If your track isn't super high grip, run the 6D.
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Old 04-30-2016, 04:18 PM   #144
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Finally a new Associated car.I love Associated and have not liked there buggys ever since the b4.2 and the centro c4.2.Hope this b6d will steer��
A b5m will over steer as much as you want, if you're pushing that's a setup issue.
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Old 04-30-2016, 04:37 PM   #145
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A b5m will over steer as much as you want, if you're pushing that's a setup issue.
Lol,you obviously have not driven a Yokomo yz2,now that steers,trust me I have been racing rc cars for over 15 years,I know how to set up a car and the b5m is a peice of shit.Try a yz2 then you will know what I am talking about.Good luck with your b5m.
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Old 04-30-2016, 04:53 PM   #146
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Lol,you obviously have not driven a Yokomo yz2,now that steers,trust me I have been racing rc cars for over 15 years,I know how to set up a car and the b5m is a peice of shit.Try a yz2 then you will know what I am talking about.Good luck with your b5m.
Douche chills.
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Old 04-30-2016, 05:14 PM   #147
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There is a big competition between the yz2 and the b5m on our local turf track....It boils down to driver. People nit pick all day long about all these racing set up concepts, but at the end of the day some people can flat drive, and some can't! I probably won't turn a faster time with the b6 than I can with my b5m, but that's because I just can't drive.
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Old 04-30-2016, 05:33 PM   #148
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Having driven both the B5s and the original YZ2 I can say the yz steers better and has higher corner speeds in its near kit form. However, the associated suspension absorbs the jumps better IMO, and it generates way more grip stock so it's a pushy setup from the kit settings.
If these new B6s can come close to the YZ2 in cornerspeed and still jump and generate grip better they will be on my short list to buy.

Having ran a lay down tranny (yz2) for over a year now I can definitely see the benefit of two seperate cars for high (B6C) and medium to low grip conditions (B6D).
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Old 04-30-2016, 06:23 PM   #149
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There is a big competition between the yz2 and the b5m on our local turf track....It boils down to driver. People nit pick all day long about all these racing set up concepts, but at the end of the day some people can flat drive, and some can't! I probably won't turn a faster time with the b6 than I can with my b5m, but that's because I just can't drive.
See some people get it,your still not there azjp,ot whatever your name is
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Old 04-30-2016, 06:24 PM   #150
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Originally Posted by Antimullet View Post
Having driven both the B5s and the original YZ2 I can say the yz steers better and has higher corner speeds in its near kit form. However, the associated suspension absorbs the jumps better IMO, and it generates way more grip stock so it's a pushy setup from the kit settings.
If these new B6s can come close to the YZ2 in cornerspeed and still jump and generate grip better they will be on my short list to buy.

Having ran a lay down tranny (yz2) for over a year now I can definitely see the benefit of two seperate cars for high (B6C) and medium to low grip conditions (B6D).
Right on antimullet,I hear ya
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