R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

Like Tree9Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-29-2016, 09:13 PM   #76
Tech Master
 
fyrstormer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Maryland, Near DC, USA
Posts: 1,820
Default

I should clarify, I was thinking of *hardened* steel, like what MIP uses for their driveshafts. I see nothing wrong with using mild-steel or titanium turnbuckles to make adjustable upper links. I think they would be more useful if the upper links had more than one mounting point on the main chassis, though.

Also, turnbuckles for the steering links would be a good idea. I should swing by the shop tomorrow and see if I can scrounge up parts to make a set. No vehicle ever suffered for having adjustable toe-alignment on the front wheels.
__________________
Check out Fyrstormer's Garage in the Chat Lounge.
fyrstormer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2016, 05:39 PM   #77
Tech Fanatic
 
croracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: So. California
Posts: 872
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

what alum servo arm will fit the one from a 22 or 8ight vehicles.
__________________
AMR ENGINES, KO PROPO RR, BONES BREW FUEL, PROLINE, MUGEN MBX7TR MBX7R, OS SPEED SPEC 2 TY TESSMAN, OS SPEED B2102, NINJA B04
croracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2016, 08:26 PM   #78
Tech Master
 
fyrstormer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Maryland, Near DC, USA
Posts: 1,820
Default

Y'know, I can't seem to find the one I used online. The one from the 22 should fit fine though. Just get the 23-spline one if you're going to use the stock servo.
__________________
Check out Fyrstormer's Garage in the Chat Lounge.
fyrstormer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2016, 09:46 AM   #79
Tech Master
 
DerekB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,421
Default

VRC Mag's quick video review.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
__________________
Velocity RC Magazine
www.vrcmag.com
DerekB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2016, 03:08 AM   #80
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 4
Default Losi Baja Rey

I love the look of this Trophy truck. But Losi has a seroius issue with the rear diff. This is my second attempt to repair the weak link. Some are saying its a diff bearing. But I believe the 3rd member diff case should be made from aluminun and shimmed properly. The gear mesh is sloppy from stock. Its Sad to spend this money and not able to overcome such an issue. Anyone having samilar issues. Its lasting me about 7-8 battery cycles on 2 cell before it blows.
Sammy built is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2016, 06:56 AM   #81
Tech Apprentice
 
DEADWright's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: MD
Posts: 65
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Yes. I lost the inner pinion bearing on my second or third batt. I attributed it to the fact that the ring/pinion had no lube. Gear housing was dry. A new bearing and some grease and so far so good until I lost the center diff gear case due to heat,melted and deformed loosing gear mesh. An alum center diff housing and alum rear axle center section with larger bearings for the pinion would be nice.
DEADWright is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2016, 02:12 PM   #82
Tech Master
 
fyrstormer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Maryland, Near DC, USA
Posts: 1,820
Default

I've been beating the crap out of my Baja Rey with no issues. If your ring and pinion gears were dry, that's a bad thing; they should be greased with lithium grease or marine grease, nothing silicone-based. The center gearbox gears should also be greased, and the center diff should be filled with thick silicone oil to limit how much it diffs-out; too much diffing-out will build up a lot of heat.

My diffs didn't need shimming. I added shims anyway, but I had to be very careful because the ring and pinion gears were meshing very close already; when I tightened the diff cover into place, the ring and pinion gears started binding and I had to remove almost all the shims I'd added.

I think most of the problems people are having with the drivetrains on these trucks are the result of improper assembly at the factory, not design flaws. Metal gears should not run dry and should not be lubricated with silicone; silicone doesn't provide enough lubrication for metal parts, and it's also very sticky which adds a lot of drag and makes parts heat-up faster.
__________________
Check out Fyrstormer's Garage in the Chat Lounge.
fyrstormer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2016, 04:31 PM   #83
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 4
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fyrstormer View Post
I've been beating the crap out of my Baja Rey with no issues. If your ring and pinion gears were dry, that's a bad thing; they should be greased with lithium grease or marine grease, nothing silicone-based. The center gearbox gears should also be greased, and the center diff should be filled with thick silicone oil to limit how much it diffs-out; too much diffing-out will build up a lot of heat.

My diffs didn't need shimming. I added shims anyway, but I had to be very careful because the ring and pinion gears were meshing very close already; when I tightened the diff cover into place, the ring and pinion gears started binding and I had to remove almost all the shims I'd added.

I think most of the problems people are having with the drivetrains on these trucks are the result of improper assembly at the factory, not design flaws. Metal gears should not run dry and should not be lubricated with silicone; silicone doesn't provide enough lubrication for metal parts, and it's also very sticky which adds a lot of drag and makes parts heat-up faster.
Out of the box these trucks will need some preventative maintenance. I would suggest if anyone buys one to re-grease the diffs. I can agree its lacking in that part. I just finished putting my truck back together. Luckily it was just a bearing that went out this time. I did install 2 shims behind the pinion gear. And must say it feels better clearance then the 1st time I rebuild her. Went thru 2 battery packs on 2 & 3 cell and it feels great. The bearing that slips on the diff behind the pinion gear are not the best. Maybe an upgraded and more quality bearing is needed any suggestions?

Sammy
Sammy built is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2016, 04:35 AM   #84
Tech Master
 
fyrstormer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Maryland, Near DC, USA
Posts: 1,820
Default

Hard to go wrong with Boca bearings. I like their Yellow Seal stainless/ceramic bearings because they never rust, but as small as the pinion bearings are on this truck, I might actually break from tradition and get Boca Green Seal chrome-steel bearings instead, because the chrome-steel races are harder.

IF RPM IS LISTENING, I THINK THERE'S A MARKET FOR A REAR DIFF BULKHEAD THAT ACCEPTS A 5x13mm INNER PINION BEARING. *cough*
__________________
Check out Fyrstormer's Garage in the Chat Lounge.
fyrstormer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2016, 08:06 PM   #85
Tech Fanatic
 
croracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: So. California
Posts: 872
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

so before 1st run, grease the rear diff, change servo arm alum?
__________________
AMR ENGINES, KO PROPO RR, BONES BREW FUEL, PROLINE, MUGEN MBX7TR MBX7R, OS SPEED SPEC 2 TY TESSMAN, OS SPEED B2102, NINJA B04
croracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2016, 04:38 AM   #86
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Far south suburbs of Chicago area
Posts: 1,611
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by croracer View Post
so before 1st run, grease the rear diff, change servo arm alum?
Seems that way. I haven't check the rear diff on mine yet. I did install the aluminum servo horn. I would most likely still be on the stock if I hadn't had the bad landing. But it does seem to drive better.
Billy Kelly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2016, 01:43 AM   #87
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 4
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy Kelly View Post
Seems that way. I haven't check the rear diff on mine yet. I did install the aluminum servo horn. I would most likely still be on the stock if I hadn't had the bad landing. But it does seem to drive better.
The front factory servo horn seems to give problems early on. I ve replace mine with the tlr 1557 aluminum servo horn. I ALSO upgraded to the Savox servo and steering is awesome!
Sammy built is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2016, 05:50 AM   #88
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Far south suburbs of Chicago area
Posts: 1,611
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammy built View Post
The front factory servo horn seems to give problems early on. I ve replace mine with the tlr 1557 aluminum servo horn. I ALSO upgraded to the Savox servo and steering is awesome!
I can deal with the stock servo for now. Not great but ok for how I drive. Too early for me to replace it without having problem. I used the TLR 22 servo horn. This I did feel differece with.
Billy Kelly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2016, 09:43 AM   #89
Tech Master
 
fyrstormer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Maryland, Near DC, USA
Posts: 1,820
Default

I replaced the servo, the servo horn, the receiver, and the ESC all at the same time, after several runs. It's just enough of a pain in the ass to get in there that I didn't want to do it three times. (doing it twice was unavoidable because I had to grease the center gearbox and the front diff early on, and they are inside the rollcage.) I'll probably change the motor to my preferred brand eventually, but there's no rush because the stock motor works fine.

Remember I posted a diagram of which screws to remove to take the rollcage off in one piece, back on Page 4. Otherwise you could end up taking the whole damn thing apart trying to figure out how it comes off.
__________________
Check out Fyrstormer's Garage in the Chat Lounge.
fyrstormer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2016, 02:52 PM   #90
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: North Platte, NE
Posts: 127
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default Noise from gear box

Are your trucks loud from gear noise mine seems much louder after I cleaned and lubed the gears?
Sjones is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 04:31 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net