mossman2

iTrader: (5)

I have been fighting my rear differential since buying a used 2.0 (converted from nitro). I would like to start from scratch and buy new front and rear differentials, but I want to make sure I get the best option. I have read about using the buggy difs, but wasn't sure if this is the best option or should I go with the 3.0 difs? Should I go with 2.0's and just make them perfect?

My current difs have the aluminum bearing carriers, but I think the bearings are shot. I'm starting to see chipping of the teeth on the pinion (toward the pinion bearing). I've shimmed them multiple times, but still having some issues.

Thoughts?

spookie

iTrader: (25)

The ones that come on the 1.0 & 2.0 are 10/43. The pinion doesn't have much contact with the ring. Translates to weaker difs. The 3.0's are 12/47. Slightly different on the final gearing, but the pinion is larger with more contact on the ring. The 3.0 buggy difs, like I put in mine 2.0, are 13/43. Translates to MUCH faster in a truggy. So I have dropped motor pinion to 14/45 and will be changing down even more to 13/45.

Some like the buggy difs because the difs, center axles and drivetrain aren't rotating as fast or as much, to get same truck speed. Should equate to less wear and tear. Hope this helps.

Eta, I learned once the pinion starts rounding off the teeth, no amount of shimming will stop it from skipping.

mossman2

iTrader: (5)

Any preference on your behalf? Looks like it's a wash, cost wise, whether I go with 3.0 Truggy or with the buggy difs. I'm assuming they are both direct replacements?

Thanks again!

spookie

iTrader: (25)

Yeah, cost is about the same. I went buggy because I had a frt buggy dif on hand from a chopped nitro buggy roller I had. So I counted the teeth in it and bought a matching rear, 13/43. The motor gearing is pretty different though. I'm down to a 13T/45 pinion now and just ordered an 11T & 12T to take it down even farther for small tracks. I was running 15-17T with the stock 10/43 dif before. I may end up jumping to a 46T spur I have on hand as well. Time will tell on that. As far as performance, I can't tell any difference myself. I did change out the Castle 2200 4 pole to a Flux Scream 1965kv 6 pole and it definitely runs cooler.

The purist will scream about me doing this, but I will run what works and will last. Just make sure if you buy from a chop shop, that both ratios match. This truck really doesn't need to be frt over driven (racing trick) imo. I'm trying to be detailed on this, so people know their options and what to expect changing all this.

mossman2

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for all the help, I ended up,just buying the 3.0 Truggy difs for simplicity. I don't have an assortment of pinion a right now, so I'm keeping it simple.

Anxious to give it a try though!

spookie

iTrader: (25)

Just to close my part of this thread out. I got my 11T and 12T pinions in yesterday. Installed the 12T this morning and it's really close to a stock 10/43 truggy dif (1.0&2.0) with a 14/45 in it. On a larger track I would probably jump to a 13T. I'm not real sure how the newer 3.0 truggy 12/47 gears are like. I heard it's a tad taller than the original 10/43. Possibly needing to be geared down on the pinion slightly?

Mossman let us know if you can, if the 3.0 truggy difs changed the gearing much, thanks.

Jerm13

iTrader: (36)

Here is my take on it... The nitro version 1.0 and 2.0 came with a 13 tooth clutch bell and 50 tooth spur. When the 3.0 came out (and now the 4.0) with the new diff gearing, they switched to a 12 tooth bell and 50 tooth spur.

So I would say if you are running the 12/47 (3.0 and 4.0) diff R&P, you would probably need to go down a tooth on your motor pinion than if you were running the 1.0/2.0 diffs. But you will mainly be gearing for performance and motor temps....