Stock vs mod explanation
#1
Stock vs mod explanation
Wondering the difference between stock and mod for 1/10 off-road 2wd. My plan is to start there, move to stock 4wd, then stock 1/8, and maybe truggy if I want. After I get at least a 1/10 2wd and 4wd buggies I will maybe start either converting them to mod or buying new kits for mod setups. What is the difference between mod and stock? Trackstars ESC motor combos say stock 21.5 turn and there's also a stock 17.5. What would I get for 1/10 2wd
#2
Stock 1/10 2wd buggy is 17.5 with a spec or "blinky" esc. Mod allows any motor / esc combo. When you move to 4wd 1/10 there aren't many places running a stock class. 1/8 is all mod, there is no stock class anywhere.
Last edited by MX304; 03-01-2016 at 07:17 AM.
#3
The difference between stock and mod 1/10 2wd off road is: mod is faster and more difficult to drive for a novice, in your case start with a stock motor (17.5 turn). I'm not familiar with stock 4wd, maybe it exists but we don't have any classes for it around here. There is no such thing as stock 1/8 scale. Use trackstar/hobbyking equipment at your own discretion. They come from China if they ever come at all, I will not personally use hobbyking anything after dealing with their lack of customer service. Some use them with success, I don't recommend them. I would stick with something from your local hobby store that you can get assistance with or with a well known online store like Amain.com, towerhobbies.com, SMC-racing.net, etc...
#4
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Look , if your wanting to run 1/8 and feel like you have to do all that to work up to it ,skip it. Just buy a 1/8 and go run some. The 1/8 and 1/10 cars are very different , and you don't have to run 1/10 to be able to run 1/8th. Sure it helps , but just like experience in anything helps. The 1/8 is much more durable , easier to drive , and will actually be cheaper than trying to outfit competitive stock 1/10 cars.
If you want to run the 1/10 classes for the sake of racing in the classes , ignore me . But again , if you feel like you have to work your way up , you don't. Just buy a car and get in the game....
If you want to run the 1/10 classes for the sake of racing in the classes , ignore me . But again , if you feel like you have to work your way up , you don't. Just buy a car and get in the game....
#5
Look , if your wanting to run 1/8 and feel like you have to do all that to work up to it ,skip it. Just buy a 1/8 and go run some. The 1/8 and 1/10 cars are very different , and you don't have to run 1/10 to be able to run 1/8th. Sure it helps , but just like experience in anything helps. The 1/8 is much more durable , easier to drive , and will actually be cheaper than trying to outfit competitive stock 1/10 cars.
If you want to run the 1/10 classes for the sake of racing in the classes , ignore me . But again , if you feel like you have to work your way up , you don't. Just buy a car and get in the game....
If you want to run the 1/10 classes for the sake of racing in the classes , ignore me . But again , if you feel like you have to work your way up , you don't. Just buy a car and get in the game....
#6
Look , if your wanting to run 1/8 and feel like you have to do all that to work up to it ,skip it. Just buy a 1/8 and go run some. The 1/8 and 1/10 cars are very different , and you don't have to run 1/10 to be able to run 1/8th. Sure it helps , but just like experience in anything helps. The 1/8 is much more durable , easier to drive , and will actually be cheaper than trying to outfit competitive stock 1/10 cars.
If you want to run the 1/10 classes for the sake of racing in the classes , ignore me . But again , if you feel like you have to work your way up , you don't. Just buy a car and get in the game....
If you want to run the 1/10 classes for the sake of racing in the classes , ignore me . But again , if you feel like you have to work your way up , you don't. Just buy a car and get in the game....
#7
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
The car matters very little at the stage you are at . What you really need is a radio you can grow with , and electronics that aren't throw away cheap. Any chassis from the last 5 years or so will be more than enough to get into the game. I personally deplore the TLR cars for a lot of reasons . Some people love them . What matters is reliability right now . Doesn't matter what car you have , if you cant finish a qualifier without having to get marshaled , driving is the hold back . Choose a car a lot of your local racers run , that will be a plus when it comes to help and support. Used 8 3.0 around here go for $200 bucks . You may find a rig ready to race for a great price from a local racer who is upgrading . Great option . But practice , reliability , and tires are going to get you 90% of the way there
#8
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
The car matters very little at the stage you are at . What you really need is a radio you can grow with , and electronics that aren't throw away cheap. Any chassis from the last 5 years or so will be more than enough to get into the game. I personally deplore the TLR cars for a lot of reasons . Some people love them . What matters is reliability right now . Doesn't matter what car you have , if you cant finish a qualifier without having to get marshaled , driving is the hold back . Choose a car a lot of your local racers run , that will be a plus when it comes to help and support. Used 8 3.0 around here go for $200 bucks . You may find a rig ready to race for a great price from a local racer who is upgrading . Great option . But practice , reliability , and tires are going to get you 90% of the way there
#10
Okay I'll do some looking. Most people at my track run tekno, associated, a serpent sponsored racer, an X-ray racer, and that about it I think. I'll ask around next time I'm down there with my slash though. And I'll look online too. Thanks.
#11
Tech Regular
I'm thinking about trying a Serpent 1/8th RTR for $500.
I usually avoid anything RTR, but every thread I've seen in the past year has Serpent fan boys raving about them. The basic buggy seems to look good and the motor/esc isn't much worse than the mid price stuff I would be buying anyways. I'm guessing the Dragon radio is cheese, but anything with DR and separate ATL settings will be usable for a short time, just not that fully connected feeling of a 4PLS.
I usually avoid anything RTR, but every thread I've seen in the past year has Serpent fan boys raving about them. The basic buggy seems to look good and the motor/esc isn't much worse than the mid price stuff I would be buying anyways. I'm guessing the Dragon radio is cheese, but anything with DR and separate ATL settings will be usable for a short time, just not that fully connected feeling of a 4PLS.
#12
I'm thinking about trying a Serpent 1/8th RTR for $500.
I usually avoid anything RTR, but every thread I've seen in the past year has Serpent fan boys raving about them. The basic buggy seems to look good and the motor/esc isn't much worse than the mid price stuff I would be buying anyways. I'm guessing the Dragon radio is cheese, but anything with DR and separate ATL settings will be usable for a short time, just not that fully connected feeling of a 4PLS.
I usually avoid anything RTR, but every thread I've seen in the past year has Serpent fan boys raving about them. The basic buggy seems to look good and the motor/esc isn't much worse than the mid price stuff I would be buying anyways. I'm guessing the Dragon radio is cheese, but anything with DR and separate ATL settings will be usable for a short time, just not that fully connected feeling of a 4PLS.
#13
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (112)
For somebody starting out, an 1/8th scale is gonna be difficult at best. The cars, parts, and needed electronics and such are expensive and they are a handful to drive as they generally are way way overpowered. I would say start in 1/10th scale electric either stock 2wd buggy or stadium truck. Then move on from there. Start out slow and definitely practice, practice, practice!