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Old 02-04-2016, 06:23 AM   #31
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I very much appreciate your feedback and fully understand the million opinions. I wish I had a close track to run and see - Its about an hour north of me. Being my first 1/8th vehicle seeing a few options will help narrow down my research before final selection.
Come on out to Mikes this friday night? I've been racing for years and have a lot of experience not only with electric 1/8 but also with the losi 3.0e. I've bough nearly everything under the sun and would be glad to answer any question.


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Old 02-04-2016, 02:49 PM   #32
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Default Batteries

Hi,

Kit is done.
Have S6090 and tekin 1900 combo installed.
Now I have to think on batteries.
Last 3 seassons I used cs 7200 2x2s lipos, very good, reliable, could still use them.
As last year I started to race also on 1/10 4wd 22-4, I liked the handling of it a lot better - my main Idea - weight, thats why this year I wonder if I should get 4500-5000mah shorties, I would save 160g and I could play with weight placement on chassis with shorties.
What do you think - is 160g saving a big benefit for large bumpy, slipery 45sec outdoor clay tracks?

Also I hoped TLR would change battery holder as for my CS batteries I had to cut holder for connectors to fit. And there are not so much batteries that has lover level for side where connector holes are placed, turnigy sure is not and option...

Any thoughts, advices?
Also - why all install alu servo saver and top brace? Drowe 3.0 for 3 seassons without it, and didn't brake any servo saver top.
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Old 02-04-2016, 04:39 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by janisdaubergs View Post
Hi,

Kit is done.
Have S6090 and tekin 1900 combo installed.
Now I have to think on batteries.
Last 3 seassons I used cs 7200 2x2s lipos, very good, reliable, could still use them.
As last year I started to race also on 1/10 4wd 22-4, I liked the handling of it a lot better - my main Idea - weight, thats why this year I wonder if I should get 4500-5000mah shorties, I would save 160g and I could play with weight placement on chassis with shorties.
What do you think - is 160g saving a big benefit for large bumpy, slipery 45sec outdoor clay tracks?

Also I hoped TLR would change battery holder as for my CS batteries I had to cut holder for connectors to fit. And there are not so much batteries that has lover level for side where connector holes are placed, turnigy sure is not and option...

Any thoughts, advices?
Also - why all install alu servo saver and top brace? Drowe 3.0 for 3 seassons without it, and didn't brake any servo saver top.
I think a heavier car is better all around. Aluminum parts are to ensure durability, but if you have never broke one i would not worry about it.
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Old 02-04-2016, 05:46 PM   #34
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Come on out to Mikes this friday night?
Jason
Jason, Thank you very much for the invite. Mikes is the place I reference as an hour north of me. I have been to Mikes in the past and in fact the last place I was thinking about trying to race on the road track. Had a TC4 built and set up and sold it off "brand new" up there when I found out having a new born and RC just did not mix well with the wife .

Now that the kids are older and my son is looking to get into RC on top of his select team sports free weekends are few and far between.

We are very interested in getting back up there. Does Mikes race every Friday night? What about Saturday's and Sunday's? When is open track time? Not being up there for many years, I assume his shop is full of supporting gear/spare parts for LOSI etc.

If need be feel free to message me on here as to not pollute this thread with local / off topic info.

When I do get up there I will ask around to see if you are then and come by and introduce ourselves.

Cheers
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Old 02-04-2016, 06:35 PM   #35
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Been looking at this car long and hard. After much debate I can't justify it. I've been running the 3.0 for 2 years and have been getting frustrated as of late. I've driven a few Mugen and Tekno cars and the level of consistency is far beyond what my 3.0 has to offer and I don't see this car being leaps and bounds better.
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Old 02-05-2016, 10:45 AM   #36
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I've never owned a buggy and I've been a 4x4 sct guy but been looking into getting a 3.0 then I seen the 4.0 came out should I get a 3.0 or 4.0 I'm just curious if it's worth spending an extra 220 bucks on the 4.0 I'd really appreciate you guys opinion
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Old 02-07-2016, 06:43 AM   #37
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Anymore up dates
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Old 02-08-2016, 05:20 PM   #38
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Not sure what update you are looking for. The E4.0 is now shipping several days early based on most online store forecasts of 2-11-16. My is shipping from aMain and will be here on the 11th.

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Anymore up dates
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Old 02-08-2016, 07:29 PM   #39
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Not sure what update you are looking for. The E4.0 is now shipping several days early based on most online store forecasts of 2-11-16. My is shipping from aMain and will be here on the 11th.
Thanks to my local hobby shop i will have mine tomorrow.
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Old 02-08-2016, 08:27 PM   #40
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I've never owned a buggy and I've been a 4x4 sct guy but been looking into getting a 3.0 then I seen the 4.0 came out should I get a 3.0 or 4.0 I'm just curious if it's worth spending an extra 220 bucks on the 4.0 I'd really appreciate you guys opinion
That's a matter of how serious you are about racing and if you feel the extra $ is worth spending for the 4.0. We can't really answer that for you. I'm sticking with my 3.0, personally. That could change though!
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Old 02-09-2016, 09:59 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by janisdaubergs View Post
So I had 3.0 before.
While building 4.0 all was superb, except because of all new parts, kit is little bit stiffer (steering, because of new spindles and spacers and all the drive-shafts due to rubber protection), but I guess it will go away after 2-5 packs on truck.
All the camber link balls were not as stiff as on 3.0 and didn't need any pressing with pliers.
There was additional shim on center diff that goes under bearing, that eliminated center diff movement form side to side witch was good addition.

I personally have only 2 things I didn't like:
I could't find short ackerman in my kit.
And as I checked bleeder screws can't be bought separately - or at least they are not yet listed, this is bad as they tend to get damaged at least on 1/10 after many times of shock upkeep, and it's very bad if they cannot be bought separately.

Also if you want to mount tekin motor on it, as it mounts on 2 large screws (also new with 4.0) in order to get it in desired direction you have to unscrew motor upper plate and that screw it back on so wire leads could point to desired direction.
Attachment 1345562
Did you check the very last bag in your kit. The short ackerman bar should be there. If it's not, please call Horizon Product Support so they can send you one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey72057 View Post
I've never owned a buggy and I've been a 4x4 sct guy but been looking into getting a 3.0 then I seen the 4.0 came out should I get a 3.0 or 4.0 I'm just curious if it's worth spending an extra 220 bucks on the 4.0 I'd really appreciate you guys opinion
If you are a serious racer that wants the latest developments and refinements of our car, then you should spend the extra money to get the 4.0. I can tell you that the adjustable center differential is a huge tuning option. Running the zero degree will give more steering due to the differences in the front and rear center dog bone angles. When running the 4.4 degree plate, the front and rear center dog bones balances the car out substantially. I believe racers that run on tight tracks will prefer the zero degree plate while racers that run on larger more wide open tracks will prefer the 4.4 degree as it will balance the car substantially.
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Old 02-10-2016, 08:58 PM   #42
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Just finished my build. The new wider chassis is really nice. There is so much room for activities now. The spindle and caster assembly is pretty tight, but should break in. Was not a fan of the new cvd boots as it made it more difficult to put the hex pin in. I have heard both sides of it run them don't run them, they are on the car for now. The battery tray is much nicer then having to drill new holes to run the tray forward. Just need to paint a body tomorrow and set everything when i get to the track friday. Note to anyone do not cut your esc wires super short just in case you want to run the battery in the back position.
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Old 02-10-2016, 10:17 PM   #43
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Does the new 4.0 use all metric screws or are there still some standard screws mixed in here and there with metric screws?
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Old 02-10-2016, 11:56 PM   #44
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How did you fine the chassie over the 3.0E chassie
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Old 02-11-2016, 03:42 AM   #45
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Does the new 4.0 use all metric screws or are there still some standard screws mixed in here and there with metric screws?
It is all standard minus a couple screws like the diff screws.

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How did you fine the chassie over the 3.0E chassie
The new chassis is much wider, i put the old body on with out the side gaurds and the chassis was still wider. Although we cannot see any major changes with the chassis i think certain things may have been machined in certain areas from testing. With the new battery tray design there is a ton of room for the esc now. I could almost put another esc next to mine.
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