maddog9

iTrader: (30)

Your driftshaft is good to go. Shocks tops look good. I would swap the shocks left to right so that the bleeder screw is facing in so no dirt gets in there. The bearings have shields. I would check the whole car and make sure all the bearing have either plastic or metal shield over the balls. I woukd get just a regular set of avid bearings they sell them as a kit for the 8e 4.0 where you get one of every bearing. Then i would get 10 extra outer hub and inner hub bearings as those will be the first to go.

skent

Picked up a used Hobbywing 1600kv motor for super cheap at my local hobby shop. Wondering if there are any gearing recommendations for this motor.

It came with an 18t pinion and I am running the stock Spur gear.

Thanks!

maddog9

iTrader: (30)

I would try it with the 18 tooth or even maybe a 19 tooth. Normal range is 15/45 for a 1900 fyi. I would just keep going up teeth until the motor runs too hot after 10 mins and bump it back down to the previous pinion.

waffleNchicken

iTrader: (3)

You're in the right range. The youngest on our team drives w a HW 1600 on 4s. We had him geared w a 17, and it worked pretty well.

skent

Are the shock instructions in the manual for emulsion style or something else? It is not clear in the manual.

maddog9

iTrader: (30)

I can't remember exactly whats in the book I believe it was bladders. If the instruction show a full bladder that it is a bladder system. If they have the o-rings that go into the cap (almost looks like cut bladders) then it is the emulsion system. I prefer emulsion in all conditions on the nitro and electric cars. Plus they are much easier to build and get all 4 shocks to match.

skent

There is definitely a bladder in the picture. How would I go about building it emulsion then?

maddog9

iTrader: (30)

https://youtu.be/Q_L6c1EaakAit is not in english but it shows how to build it both ways

Callaway

iTrader: (3)

Well... I finally ordered this kit. It's been a year coming, but I finally committed to travel a bit to get to the 1/8 scale tracks this summer. All my 1/10 scale rigs are TLR (and I have every 2wd class), but I was looking at the Tekno and AE ebuggies. Fortunately, both of them have been on backorder quite a while and it made me reconsider the TLR.

Watching Dakotah's ebuggy main last night, it seemed like his buggy jumped really well and handled that rattlesnake section well. I know he wasn't at the front and ended up dropping out, but the car looked good.

I'm looking for something that is very forgiving and not aggressive. Any pointers for initial setup would be appreciated... I gather kit setup but emulsion shocks is a good start? I also ordered green rear springs. Should I start with kit diff oil, or go up to 15k in the middle like Maifield's setups from last year show?

maddog9

iTrader: (30)

I would start with 5-7-3. If you drive super punched i would suggest the higher center diff. I would suggest emulsion with 37.5 and 32.5. They are much easier to build too.

pballer2777

iTrader: (28)

wouldn't a higher center diff oil make the car harder to drive?

maddog9

iTrader: (30)

yes thats why i suggested a lower center diff like 7 instead of 15.

Callaway

iTrader: (3)

Thanks! I am the opposite of super punched. I'm more like super conservative, almost too conservative. I don't know if a punched driving style (such as Maifield's) requires a super aggressive setup or a super forgiving setup. I could see it either way. Regardless, I need a forgiving setup, so that's my main question with regards to center diff. I'll start with kit and go from there!

pballer2777

iTrader: (28)

oh ok i misread the post.

maddog9

iTrader: (30)

My experience from trying to use someones setup like that was the car would not turn unless you were a throttle jockey. I like a "lazier car", but a car that still will rotate so I can drive a little harder, but by no means maifield level hard. I usually run longer camberlink locations.