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Old 03-14-2016, 05:22 PM
  #136  
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With the 50mm shaft in, how close to the top of the shock body is it When fully compressed? If it has 2mm plus you should be fine. If your not using bladders like Fred. There is room for the 44mm in front.
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Old 03-14-2016, 05:46 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by WallyRC
With the 50mm shaft in, how close to the top of the shock body is it When fully compressed? If it has 2mm plus you should be fine. If your not using bladders like Fred. There is room for the 44mm in front.
Yeah no bladders here. I have the shafts so maybe I need to give it a look front and rear and see how much goes out of the body (piston) when compressed fully?

Here is a vid of the DEX210F at the last race, my driving was a bit subpar but you get the idea

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 03-15-2016, 02:37 PM
  #138  
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Hobbico got back to me today about the shock shafts, didn't really have any answers but they are replacing it. I'll be running it again this weekend so we'll see if happens again.
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Old 03-15-2016, 03:20 PM
  #139  
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I was messing with my V3 shocks last night and they have the 21.5 mm front shock bodies, same as the 210F. Fully compressed with the bump stop in I was about 1.5mm from being even with the top of the shock body. Given that I believe there is space between the top of the shock cap and the shock body when its fully threaded on I'm sure the 44mm shock shaft shouldn't be an issue. Same goes for the 52mm shock shaft to the 50mm. Fully compressed with the bump stop in it was about the same as the front shocks but I'd have to measure it since I wasn't paying close attention. I would honestly be more concerned with the droop instead of the up travel. Adding an extra 2mm to the length can make the car really twitchy and hard to drive.

When I ran the F with my V3 shocks on it made the care really unstable coming out of high speed corners and made it unpredictable through tight corners. After the race I built the F's shocks and it made the car come alive. Even with a base setup it was much easier to drive then it was before. But this is all personal experience, not gospel.
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Old 03-15-2016, 05:07 PM
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Thanks good info. Are you running full droop with the F shocks?
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Old 03-16-2016, 07:47 AM
  #141  
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Originally Posted by raceyz
Hobbico got back to me today about the shock shafts, didn't really have any answers but they are replacing it. I'll be running it again this weekend so we'll see if happens again.
Good stuff. I'll give them a call today and see what the status is of things.

As it sits right now though, i don't think anyone is reporting issues with the rear shocks, right?

Originally Posted by Laker67
I was messing with my V3 shocks last night and they have the 21.5 mm front shock bodies, same as the 210F. Fully compressed with the bump stop in I was about 1.5mm from being even with the top of the shock body. Given that I believe there is space between the top of the shock cap and the shock body when its fully threaded on I'm sure the 44mm shock shaft shouldn't be an issue. Same goes for the 52mm shock shaft to the 50mm. Fully compressed with the bump stop in it was about the same as the front shocks but I'd have to measure it since I wasn't paying close attention. I would honestly be more concerned with the droop instead of the up travel. Adding an extra 2mm to the length can make the car really twitchy and hard to drive.

When I ran the F with my V3 shocks on it made the care really unstable coming out of high speed corners and made it unpredictable through tight corners. After the race I built the F's shocks and it made the car come alive. Even with a base setup it was much easier to drive then it was before. But this is all personal experience, not gospel.
So in short, add a limiter inside the shock or use the droop screws assuming you are using the kit emulsion style setup should be the ticket then? If so thats great news as I have a variety of the longer shafts here, including a NIB rear set of titanium ones and I set front and rear of the gold shafts too.

I took out the broken shock end from my DEX410V5 shock end, exact same place as the dex210F.
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Old 03-16-2016, 10:04 AM
  #142  
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Hi Cain,

I've watched the video of the carpet race, nice run!
Have you also tried some european typical carpet tires too, like schumacher mini pins for the rear and schumacher low profile staggers for the front?
Would be interesting, what you say, if you try this one, compared to them you use normaly?
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Old 03-16-2016, 10:36 AM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by micholix
Hi Cain,

I've watched the video of the carpet race, nice run!
Have you also tried some european typical carpet tires too, like schumacher mini pins for the rear and schumacher low profile staggers for the front?
Would be interesting, what you say, if you try this one, compared to them you use normaly?
can't run hard pin tires on the rear, track rules. I know some guys who use the staggers up front and primes in the rear, I think the green, black, and white buggy had those and he was getting around the track quite fast.
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Old 03-17-2016, 02:19 PM
  #144  
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The 210V3 front shock shafts are definitely a problem. I have broken about 5 fronts and no rears this far. All of them were minor pipe scrubs or contact that should not have broken them at the threads like that. I will try the above mentioned upgrade, thank you to whoever posted that!
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Old 03-17-2016, 03:13 PM
  #145  
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make sure everyone is calling hobbico about this. When I called the tech said that was the first he had heard of anything about it.

I also shot Travis an email and he is going to forward that along, but as the saying goes, the squeaky wheel gets the grease so lets get the grease going here.

Can you guys take some pics of what you are seeing for breakage, I'll take pictures of what I got here.

More so than the shafts is the damage it does to the shock eyelet so you have to dremel to get them out, if you can.

Anyone know of an alternative to the stock shock eyelets. Looking for something cheaper that will work with the stock cups.

Last edited by Cain; 03-21-2016 at 07:47 AM.
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Old 03-17-2016, 09:00 PM
  #146  
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http://www.dialedhobbies.com/er-12m-2-0-parts/intech-er-12-shock-ends-4-detail.html

Cain,
Check this website out. Don't know if they are the same. But the Intech12m is a mid motor buggy that looks like a copy of the dex210 with some differences. For $4.49, might be worth a try.
Just stumbled upon this.
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Old 03-17-2016, 10:20 PM
  #147  
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Originally Posted by Cain
make sure everyone is calling hobbico about this. When I called the tech said that was the first he had of anything about it.

I also shot Travis an email and he is going to forward that along, but as the saying goes, the squeaky wheel gets the grease so lets get the grease going here.

Can you guys take some pics of what you are seeing for breakage, I'll take pictures of what I got here.

More so than the shafts is the damage it does to the shock eyelet so you have to dremel to get them out, if you can.

Anyone know of an alternative to the stock shock eyelets. Looking for something cheaper that will work with the stock cups.
http://www.dialedhobbies.com/er-12m-2-0-parts/intech-er-12-shock-ends-4-detail.html

Paste this link and see what you think. Seems to be 210 clone. Might be the same?!?!
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Old 03-18-2016, 07:18 AM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by WallyRC
http://www.dialedhobbies.com/er-12m-2-0-parts/intech-er-12-shock-ends-4-detail.html

Paste this link and see what you think. Seems to be 210 clone. Might be the same?!?!
Looks very close. I posted a message on the intech board about these to see if they are the same.


Based on what I am seeing and they won't ship till Monday, I ordered a set. if I hear they are not the same I'll call and cancel But I wouldn't be surprised they are.
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Old 03-20-2016, 11:37 AM
  #149  
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Cain: Have you weighed your 210f in race trim ? I may have missed that post if you have. My 210v2 weighed 1580 ready to race stock class . My 22 3.0 is lite at 1540.
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Old 03-21-2016, 07:52 AM
  #150  
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I haven't done that. I basically just have 4 wheel scales so if logic is correct I would just total up what they say. I'll see if I can give that a go today and I'll post what I find.

Mind you, I run the strc graphite front tower which may be heavier. You can probably shave a good a mount of weight too using lunsford turnbuckles as if I recall correctly on my DEX210V2 that has the Plan b chassis, i went lunsfords and it had some nice weight savings.

I'd be curious what it could weigh if someone made a graphite chassis.
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