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Old 02-18-2016, 01:06 PM   #91
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Really considering the V5 and V3 but there is no support here in WI. What should extras should I order if I pull the trigger on these kits?
honestly you would want the standard items like like a-arms, maybe front shock shafts, etc.
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Old 02-18-2016, 01:50 PM   #92
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Wouldn't reducing the punch on the esc or setting up a curve for the throttle like we do for sct where there is no slipper be a more consistent way to control traction than pads that fade? I've never driven a 4x4 buggy so I'm just trying to apply what I know from my experience with the sc10 4x4 and my teknos. What would make a buggy different?
SCT's are considerably larger and heavier so they already have superior traction to 4WD cars. Notice how SCT's with slippers or not have traction without a rear wing and bodies that act like parachutes/ Run a buggy without a wing and it will be all over the place. 1/10 buggies are simply more sensitive than other types of RC vehicles because of their size and weight. Certainly, 4WD vehicles can get around tracks without wings and slippers, but it is considerably more difficult to so than it is when you have both of those. You CAN adjust your power curve to compensate just as you do with SCT's but it's been my experience that you want your drive train to perform at it's absolute best and then adjust power delivery.

These companies R&D these systems extensively over long periods of time before producing them, so there are a multitude of reasons why you are better served to learn how to tune these system properly. Be it 4WD or 2WD, locking slippers out completely limits the capabilities of cars just as much, if not more so than all the other tunable components of a car.
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Old 02-19-2016, 07:00 AM   #93
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one thing I am curious on both the dex410v5 and the dex210F that I got a good portion built yesterday is on the rear of the chassis there are these two large cut outs that are under the rear diff. Curious if that will be an issue on landings if somehing will hit just right there. If someone makes a rear skid, I'd probably look into that for sure.
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Old 02-19-2016, 07:59 AM   #94
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honestly you would want the standard items like like a-arms, maybe front shock shafts, etc.
Figured... Might pull the trigger on one tomorrow..
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Old 02-19-2016, 08:01 AM   #95
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The weird thing about my B5M for me, I've bent two rear shock shafts in the last 7 Months but nothing else. Cars these days seem to be pretty solid..
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Old 02-19-2016, 08:22 AM   #96
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yeah tempted here too but would want it from tower to get the most discount. So curious when they will get more in.
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Old 02-22-2016, 08:06 AM   #97
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Hey Guys! SOOOOO, I had my first big race of the season this last Saturday and was able to get this car and the 210F built Friday night and ready for Saturday early morning. Yes that means I stayed up ALL night and built both cars. Was it worth it? Absolutely! If your on the fence about spending your hard earned money on the V5, all I can say is DO IT! I think the center diff made this car so much easier to drive. I still had all the steering of my V4 but the car was so good right off the bat that I was completely comfortable with it by my second lap around the track. I put the same shock package I had on my V4 into this car just because I knew it worked, and without ANY testing at all it seemed to pay off. I'll be going back to a stock setup now that the race is over and do some testing on the carpet, but in a week or so I'll be switching everything over to a dirt setup for our April Fools race coming up. I also took some pics of the upgrades that I noticed were stock in the kit while building the car and some other information to update the first page in the next day or two.
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Old 02-22-2016, 09:19 AM   #98
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Hey Guys! SOOOOO, I had my first big race of the season this last Saturday and was able to get this car and the 210F built Friday night and ready for Saturday early morning. Yes that means I stayed up ALL night and built both cars. Was it worth it? Absolutely! If your on the fence about spending your hard earned money on the V5, all I can say is DO IT! I think the center diff made this car so much easier to drive. I still had all the steering of my V4 but the car was so good right off the bat that I was completely comfortable with it by my second lap around the track. I put the same shock package I had on my V4 into this car just because I knew it worked, and without ANY testing at all it seemed to pay off. I'll be going back to a stock setup now that the race is over and do some testing on the carpet, but in a week or so I'll be switching everything over to a dirt setup for our April Fools race coming up. I also took some pics of the upgrades that I noticed were stock in the kit while building the car and some other information to update the first page in the next day or two.
Good stuff! what is your shock package by the way? (can you post the dex210F shock package too on the dex210F thread?)

Out here had some more discussion with some guys at the track and I think we are going to see about doing a 13.5 class for 1/10 4wd. Should be fun.

Did you feel you would ever want stiffer sway bars? If I go with one of these was thinking of ordering the rear swaybar set and maybe some front ones, but if not needed on carpet, don't think I would see a need on dirt at all then.
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Last edited by Cain; 02-22-2016 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 02-22-2016, 10:26 AM   #99
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Good stuff! what is your shock package by the way? (can you post the dex210F shock package too on the dex210F thread?)

Out here had some more discussion with some guys at the track and I think we are going to see about doing a 13.5 class for 1/10 4wd. Should be fun.

Did you feel you would ever want stiffer sway bars? If I go with one of these was thinking of ordering the rear swaybar set and maybe some front ones, but if not needed on carpet, don't think I would see a need on dirt at all then.
Hey Cain, on this car I ran 1.5 X 2 two hole pistons in the front, 42.5 WT TLR oil, and TLR truck black springs in the front. The rear is 1.7 X 2, 35 WT TLR oil, and a TLR Pink spring in the rear. It might have been a touch too stiff but I'll be messing with it in the next couple of days.

I think this this car will be great as a 13.5 car, with the options for spur gears even with the center diff you should be able to get the car dialed in for speeds and temps with out any problems. The other cool part is that if you want to reduce the rotating mass you can put in the V4 slipper assembly when we find out what parts are necessary to do that. I'm pretty sure it will be the 210F Center Mount and then changing out the center drivelines.

On the Sway bars, I actually didn't install the kit front sway bar. I put in the 1.5 mm sway bar that I had for my V4 and installed the kit sway bar for the rear. For the high bite carpet we run, I think the thicker sway bar was the ticket. On my v4 I always ran the sway bars also, I felt like it helped my float the corners and made the car really nimble. When I go to dirt, I'll probably try it without the front sway bar and then go up as necessary.
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Old 02-22-2016, 10:31 AM   #100
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good stuff, may have to join in on the fun lol.

Are you running saddles or shorty?
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Old 02-22-2016, 04:06 PM   #101
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My kit just arrived and will start the build shortly.

This past weekends points race, I reset the track record with the V4. So with the V5, I hope to reset it again. :-)

Also I read in an earlier post to not run the front sway bar. Guess we'll see how it works very soon.
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Old 02-22-2016, 04:52 PM   #102
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Yep, starting the build on mine tonight. I'm not going to run the front swaybar at first either. I picked up the rear swaybar set, and will tune according. Will be running at fairly loose tracks.

What I was interested in, is that the V5 product page, and in the setup sheets, have options for the motor left or right. The manual has nothing referencing this option (nor online). The default for the manual is left. What situations would I ever consider moving the other side (right)?
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Old 02-23-2016, 03:21 AM   #103
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Yep, starting the build on mine tonight. I'm not going to run the front swaybar at first either. I picked up the rear swaybar set, and will tune according. Will be running at fairly loose tracks.

What I was interested in, is that the V5 product page, and in the setup sheets, have options for the motor left or right. The manual has nothing referencing this option (nor online). The default for the manual is left. What situations would I ever consider moving the other side (right)?
Right side is if you race in Australia or Great Britain.

Ultimately it should not matter if your running saddle packs and your side to side weight balance is set up properly.

Could also be for marketing for that extra feature that nobody will ever use or need.
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Old 02-23-2016, 05:16 AM   #104
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Originally Posted by Shawn_S View Post
Yep, starting the build on mine tonight. I'm not going to run the front swaybar at first either. I picked up the rear swaybar set, and will tune according. Will be running at fairly loose tracks.

What I was interested in, is that the V5 product page, and in the setup sheets, have options for the motor left or right. The manual has nothing referencing this option (nor online). The default for the manual is left. What situations would I ever consider moving the other side (right)?
Hi Shawn,

my personal advice would be to use either of the 2 configurations documented in the instruction manual.

if you want to go 'off menu' with a configuration then you can record it in our setup sheet. but I would only experiment with these if there is a specific reason that you want an alternate setup

Thanks
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Old 02-23-2016, 07:10 AM   #105
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so when do you guys recommend to go with a shorty setup versus a saddle setup?

I'll be joining in on the fun
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