micholix

Yes, you are maybe right, that the engeneers where looking at that, but this is not, what i want.
May it sounds like, i'm praying freds words, but i do belive in that too, let the suspension do their job, while the chassis should do its job and not let the chassis do the job of the suspension...

Not saying, they are wrong, but that is not what i understand it all should be, the car is realy good in many points and i think too, many, or most of the factorys are going this root!?

I'm trying to stiffen up the chassis, espacially at the rear end and will drive it, if i dont like, how it handles, i'll sell it!

Cain

iTrader: (294)

heck on high bite carpet I am really like how the car handles. The field I run against is pretty much a ton of Hot Bodies D413s a few Xray XB4s, and I think a B44.3 here and there. Also, Maybe 1 losi 22-4 2.0 . Its a pretty new class to everyone but darn fun. Motors used are in the 10.5 to 13.5 range. Most people had left over 10.5s so they run that but its still technically a mod class.

I am going with 13.5 blinky setup as I want to try and grow that class. Offers vehicles with reasonable speeds I feel. The DEX410v5 has a very nice gearing range for this.

With AE and eventually tekno releasing 1/10 4wd buggies combined with availability of a "stock" speed option, 13.5, we could see a real growth in the 1/10 4wd buggy racing.

Big thing I am debating right now is standardizing on AE springs. I have a bunch of Durango springs, but it seems some look one way (more black anodizing on them) and others anothe way, even though both were bought new and initially I almost thought i had two different brand of springs in the box. As I run AE springs now on my other vehicles, wondering if I'll just go all AE springs to keep it the same.

But outside of that, vehicle works really well. Too bad Durango has dropped the ball on racing side of things. Be curious what some top drivers could do with this versus the new buggies coming out.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Not too bad of a run here. mainly had issues with consistency on my part but the vehicle felt good as usual. I am thinking maybe going up even higher on the center diff (I only had 100K on hand) or locking it.

Funny thing one of the fastest guys was running the previous version durango, dex410v4, with a shorty down the middle and 13.5 setup, not sure if done blinky though but it was very consistent around the track and had similar speed. Still had the chops

daedalus

iTrader: (4)

Ran my car again tonight and drove my buddies 22-4 2.0 back to back. The TLR feels lighter on it's feet but the DEX410v5 felt more hooked up and WAY more stable. We were both running same electronics and same tires.

That being said his car did have better turn in and less understeer. Are there any simple setup changes I could try out to try and tweak a bit more turn into the setup?

(Running Box stock setup)

micholix

Hi deadalus, if you are running box stock setup, you could try to go to -1.5 camber angle, and/or remove front sway bar, shorten front wheel base, so put the 2 mm shims at the front of the hub.

Are you running saddle packs, or shorty batteries?

Bman's 3XNT

iTrader: (71)

Also more front toe out, move lower front shock mount in, raise and or shorten rear camber link. Lighter front diff oil. Try these first

Cain

iTrader: (294)

take off the front swaybar first before doing anything else. Seems like the most common thing I am not seeing used on the setups that are out there.

When I pulled mine I picked up a good amount of steering.

Any of you guys play with stiffer springs than stock yet? I am thinking of going up 1 level front and rear.

Heck, as I have some many durango springs may even try them on my AE cars.

micholix

As for springs, i havn't playing with them yet, still waiting for my center shafts to arrive, than will do the propper spring drop test, but i will run mine with saddle packs and the two way slipper!

Bman's 3XNT

iTrader: (71)

My car is a little different as I have my version of the v5 but running saddles and on carpet. I run a front sway and Dark red springs 1.6x2 and 45wt losi oil. Rear is 1.6x3 35 wt losi oil lt. blue spring. 10/125/10 for diff oil.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

running shorties here but I also run the esc behind the motor.

Alan_r

Something I noticed with all my TD cars is the availability of high quality boots for the shocks, driveshaft outputs and hubs. This is something you don't see too often in 1/10th scale models.

After spending all the $$ on titanium hardened shock shafts and upgraded silicone o-rings, I thought it was worth trying to protect them the best I could. So I went ahead and bought the shock boots for all 6 1/10 Durango's that I have. I also bought a couple of the driveshaft and hub boots but have yet to install them.

I know that after spending money to buy Ti shafts and Kashima shock bodies with X rings on my AE rides, I was always concerned with the damage they received from dirt and sand. Looking at those shafts under a magnifying glass showed this damage occurring within just a few race days. I can only imagine what it looks like under higher magnification. I also tested two shocks, built identical and tested to be identical, on my Losi shock gauge. The shock with the boot had a tiny, almost insignificant, increase in rebound than the shock without. This was likely due to the rubber bunching up a little at full compression. There was no difference at any other point in the range of the shock.

So what are your guys thoughts on these boots? It almost seems like a no-brainer for those of us who can't afford too or just don't want too replace all our shock parts all the time. They look like they will dramatically increase the lifespan of certain wear parts.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

nice body. I didn't even know they made shock boots. you have the part #?

8KCAB

Front: TD330018
Rear: TD330017

Alan_r

Thanks 8cab.

Cain, if you hit up the TD site, you'll find all the different boots and clamps listed on the parts page. I want to say the DESC410 had a different part number but I'm not 100% I'll come back with a list of everything, including the driveshaft and hub boots when I get back. I've still got a bunch in the package to look at.

Pittster

iTrader: (5)

Alan_r I have used the shock boots for years now and they do help stop ingress of dirt into the shocks my only issue is they dont last long enough they tend to tear and rip within a couple of race meets any way.

I know just rebuild my shocks more often to compensate for no shock boot's

driveshafts boots etc I found less useful